I am moving a Dakota three position safety from one action to another but don't have the specs. The only thing I need is the coordinates of the small recess on the bolt body. I think it's .275 X-axis and .296 Y-axis as shown here.
https://pacifictoolandgauge.co...8-safety-install.pdf

can someone confirm this or furnish the correct coordinates please.

A quick check in my note book of instructions shows the PT&G instructions are word for word the same as the Dakota instructions. PT&G just changed the letterhead. Measurements are the same. I can scan this and e-mail a copy, if you wish.

numbers mean nothing
mark it with the back end of a sharpened drill bit that fits the plunger hole. I don't mean sharpened to a point. just grind the back end just enough off square that it marks dykem on the back of the bolt when you spin it with your fingers. numbers are meaningless when a custom bolt handle isn't inletted into the receiver exactly at 90 degrees. I've installed so many of these and NEVER EVER used the numbers. I usually inlet the handle just a little shallow so it doesn't pop up when you pull the trigger.

quote:

Originally posted by slivers:
A quick check in my note book of instructions shows the PT&G instructions are word for word the same as the Dakota instructions. PT&G just changed the letterhead. Measurements are the same. I can scan this and e-mail a copy, if you wish.

Thanks for the post. I've installed several of these and never saved the instructions. It's not necessary to send me anything as I can take it from here.

Ditto what James said.

I have only installed two, but I even thought the Dakota instructions said to mark it like this.

I never could understand how to level up the flat on the root of the bolt to determine where to make that cut for the pin. I do it like Jim says only I use a tool I made.

I totally agree with both James and Jim.

After making thousands of those M98 3 position safety units, and installing an unknown amount, my take on it is this.

Someone felt they needed to put something in print, so AHA, lets use the CAD of the hole placement in the sleeve.
But this person who posted these specs NEVER had installed a safety, I will bet.

The variables that exist from the bottom flats of the sleeve to the top of the rear tang. The tolerances in the threads. The position and fitting of the depth of the bolt handle notch in the rear tang. That is simply a few of the variables I can think off the top of my head.

The best and most simple way to mark it, like James said. Is to take a drill that will fit thru the small plunger hole diameter, then grind a slight angled flat on the shank of the drill. With layout dye on the rear of the bolt body. Then install the safety in the bolt body, and insert the unit into the receiver, and close it in the to Fire position. Now with that drill, insert it shank first into the hole for the plunger and carefully twist it around thus marking a half moon in the rear of the bolt body.

I made up a fixture I can clamp in my milling vise that will hold the bolt body vertical and I can then machine that half moon cut with a 1/8" carbide end mill

J Wisner

I hold the bolt in a small bee block


And I made a fixture to locate the hole and it works ok but not as good as just marking the bolt like gunmaker and jwisner stated.

Upon purchase one of my 98's I noticed that a previous owner had left too much material at the rear of the crescent cut in the firing pin. I marked the pin by repeatedly bottoming out the lever which marked the rear of the cut and went from there.
To all the pros out there, I ask:
Is this marking method acceptable to the pros out there?
Thanks.
CB

I was going to say what GM said; Never use the measurements; hand fit each one; spot in the plunger position with layout die, and go from there. CB; yes.

Thanks DPCD. Sorry to interrupt the topic.