I am in the plannng stage for a nice mannlicher 35 Whelen build I have been desiring for many years. What I am after is a lightweight, though a touch weight forward, big game rifle. Here are my current thoughts:

- 1909 Argentine action (two already in hand).
- 20" 1-12 twist PacNor barrel with a M70 FW contour finishing off at .600" at the muzzle.
- Fine Turkish or English walnut with either a blind magazine or the original "cleaned up", finished with the NECG trap style grip cap (anyone else offer one?), a 1" recoil pad and a NECG or equivalent muzzle cap. I am looking to have a slight radius just forward of the magazine area into the stock to slim down the forend and then straight taper to the muzzle.
- Wisner banded front sight.
- Tweaked Talley bases (too "blocky" as is) with rear peep that will store in the grip cap and quick detach rings.
- Wisner or LaPour 3 position safety.
- McFarland 2 panel checkered bolt knob.
- Finished with a rust blue.

Would like thoughts on barrel selection, twist, contour and length, bottom metal or not and anything else please.

Here's a link to my blind magazine full length stock if it helps.

May I suggest that the featherweight barrel (from Douglas) is available up to .308 caliber and may have to be custom ordered/contoured.....

May I suggest to keep the barrel muzzle to .580 max and since you want weight forward, you may then add lead shot to recesses milled to the forearm so you get it the way you like it.

Trap grip caps are offered by several suppliers. The NECG rotating one is a favorite of mine but I don't think it's large enough for the Talley peep, and several of the other hinged-cap models aren't large enough either (Meier, London Guns, etc.). However Talley offers/used to offer a screw-cap model that's especially sized for his little peep and is also easy to install when compared with the others.

IMO it would be A Good Thing if the cavity was made large enough to contain the removable front sight hood when the peep is being used.

Re the forearm taper: you might consider a tiny schabel (or a bail) at the mid-point, to break up the line and allow more latitude for a pleasing transition. Examples of this can be found in several custom rifle sources. The added schabel and the bail-type front sling mount are both devices that are used for this purpose, they readily draw the eye and serve to minimize the awkwardness of the concave taper.

I like the idea of adding lead to the forearm interior for better weight-&-balance.

If you use a blind mag then you might consider fabbing some sort of decorative escutcheon for the front action screw and maybe even more decoration on the front base extension of the TG.
Regards, Joe

Sounds like a wonderful rifle. I personally would be tempted go with a European cartridge to match the rifle.

Terry

I've had a few Whelens and its my opinion that 1-12 buys you nothing over the 1-14. 1-14 can stabilize even the heavy 280 A-frames without a problem. The 1-12 just gets you more pressure vs. the 1-14.

I wouldn't go so thin as .600 at the muzzle, especially with such a short barrel. .675 would be plenty thin for a 35 caliber and would still keep the weight down.

20" barrel is a good length for a scout barrel, so if you are hunting in really thick brush, that would be a good choice. But if you are looking for the best balance, I would go with a 22".

I built a similar one (fn action, 22" barrel tapered to .600, with a rimrock stock (29 ounces)). Originally it was .670 which I thought was a little heavy.
I think with a 20" tube and wood stock you will find it a little light in the front end. Personally, if I did it again, I would run a 22" barrel somewhere around .640!

Boxhead, I'm sketching out a very similar rifle for myself. I'll be building a 9.3X62 however. Following-up on Terry's advice, consider a 9.3X62 or an 8X57. I think the 8X57 (properly loaded) is perhaps the most underrated cartrige in existence.

With regard to your plans, I would suggest a swamp taper on the barrel and a compound curve on the foreend (not a straight taper from the front guard screw to the muzzle). What ruins the look and feel of many full-stocked rifles is using a straight taper on the foreend and barrel. It looks about as attractive as Hillary Clinton's ankles.

EDITED to add: I find the McFarland bolt handles are a little too skinny for my taste. You might take a look at the Half Moon bolt handles or the ones Duane Wiebe is making.

Please use a nice piece of bottom metal...aftermarket or a reworked 1909. I think blind magazines are for varmint rifles or budget projects. If this is a budget project, then proceed as you please.

Who do you plan to build the rifle for you? Have you seen any of their full-stocked rifles (preferably handled one)? I'm asking because I've seen very few gunmakers who have mastered the style. I wouldn't want to be the guinea pig on such a project. If you have a builder with experience in building rifles like the one you're contemplating, he should be able to answer all these questions for you...better yet, he could offer his advice and experience so the two of you could come to the decision together. If the builder is not up to that task, then I'd suggest finding a new gunmaker.

Good luck to you and please keep us posted on your project as it progresses.

Boxhead

I acquired a rifle close to what you describe about a year ago.
It is a German built Mauser 98 by Vono.
Caliber is 9x57. Barrel is solid ribbed and 19 1/2 inches long.Breech diameter is 1.100 with a cylinder of only .100. In front of cylinder it is .850 and a straight taper to the muzzle of .640.
Weight is only 6 1/2 pounds with a 1/4 inch solid brass butt plate. Stock fore arm is a straight taper to the muzzle.
Hope this helps. If you need any more information, let me know.

James

you plan on going light for caliber or heavy in the bullets? 20" doesn't give you much to burn with. I think a 350 remington would be a better light weight 35 and give better performance.

my whelen has a 26" barrel, I love how it balances. I wouldn't personally go that short. I'd cut out the open sights (how often really going to need them on our side of the pond?) and the trap cap to save a bit of weight. get a lighter blank etc. I like floorplates, weight wise would the metal weigh more or less than the wood in that area?

Red

I would think carefully about going below 21.5-22 inches on a .30-06 size case.