Liked the full rib on the octagon to round barrels, so why should the round barrel feel left out
What say you? Good-Bad-Ugly

I would like to have the budget to have that made!

That’s similar to what I ordered a few years ago.

I have a Steve Earle Fraser with a full length intragal rib that was made by Glenn Fewless. It's chambered in 275 Rigby it's my go to deer rifle. The barrel is spectacular and I have pictures however they are only on my computer - sorry.

Steve,
I like the idea, also like the treatment to the front sight base and front of the quarter rib. Still think the quarter rib is too high. Have you found a shop to make it?
John

Machining a barrel such as is shown on the computer image is a real excercise in patience and ..maybe end up in futility

I've made a bunch of this tpe of barrel in the past, but have found easier ways of committing financial suicide.

Your past comes back to haunt you.! An upcoming project calls for a close match to an integral barrel I did 25 year ago! My obious choice was to ask Steve if he can help me out.

Fingers crossed!

Thanks John. This barrel is for a 35 Whelen for a Model 70 action with Talley bases. Those bases are thick and the qrib is tall to get a reasonable amount of the rear sight blade above those bases.
GMA and Satterlee square bridges much better.

Duane, the barrel design is parameterized to allow customization. Just email me your barrel dimensions, as a Douglas barrel parameters
And will let you know. Thanks
Steve

I’ve always wondered if a rib would cause the point of impact to move as the barrel heats up due to uneven expansion caused by the rib. Anyone have experience with this? Just curious.

I like that a lot!!

quote:

Originally posted by dougfinn:
I’ve always wondered if a rib would cause the point of impact to move as the barrel heats up due to uneven expansion caused by the rib. Anyone have experience with this? Just curious.

It happens. I have been trying to buy a rifle out of a private collection for sometime, the owner shoots the rifle competitively in a timed shoot. Last year he told me if his new rifle with an integral rib shot well for him he would sell me the rifle I am after. Long story short, the new rifle with the integral rib would string shots increasingly higher as the barrel would heat up. He sold his new rifle and I am still trying to talk him out of the one I want.

Decent design overall.
Small piece of advise remove the tapered tails on the Q-rib nose and the back of the front ramp.
Make the full length rib narrower to expose more barrel radius.
Make the overall sight plane lower, action makers and gunmakers have the capability and machines to readjust bridge height when needed.
Machining, it's going to take dedication to the setup, setting up for one or two? does not cut it financially. 3 designs, small, medium, large.
10 to 20 unit batch quantity.
Ability to run any of the 3 sizes with no setup or tooling changes. select proper PGM hit cycle start.
Group purchasing, like what Chad Dixon has done on the snipers hide, that man has his shit together and he's talented, clearly a model to follow if possible. He bangs it out hardcore. Different products obviously, but the approach is astounding when you get right down to it.

Just my 2 cents but I have long suspected that is the problem with some Ruger #1's, the dowel pins between the rib and barrel and maybe a little bit with the screw type, flat top.

John and Stuart,
Thanks for the feedback!
What do you suggest we make the sight plane height wrt the barrel boreline?
I set the qrib height to be the same as either
a square bridge or sight base height above the barrel centerline.
Then, the front base height follow this when using a NECG 276x98 front sight blade. Thanks

Steve

quote:

Originally posted by steve505:
John and Stuart,
Thanks for the feedback!
What do you suggest we make the sight plane height wrt the barrel boreline?
I set the qrib height to be the same as either
a square bridge or sight base height above the barrel centerline.
Then, the front base height follow this when using a NECG 276x98 front sight blade. Thanks

Steve

I get along really well with the NECG heights and those heights work great with my stock designs, others are very similar in dimension.
So much so that it's not going to make a shits worth of difference, in how well someone shoots open irons every five years, if ever.

In retrospect, actual production is more important than 1/8 lower for a set of sights that likely won't get used as everyone either has a Z6 or wants one, so they have something real close to a Z6. At this point the huge majority of hunting shots are accomplished with optics.
Additionally, if the open sight planes and optical sight planes are reasonably close together it makes for easier use of either for those that want to go optic to open and vise versa.
On top of that, pretty much all of the newer 30mm scopes have huge objectives and oculars so we're mounting higher than the old days of the Leopold 1.0 inch scopes and others.

quote:

Originally posted by steve505:
John and Stuart,
Thanks for the feedback!
What do you suggest we make the sight plane height wrt the barrel boreline?
I set the qrib height to be the same as either
a square bridge or sight base height above the barrel centerline.
Then, the front base height follow this when using a NECG 276x98 front sight blade. Thanks

Steve

Steve,
I guess what I'm getting at as far as the height of the ¼ rib, is it does not have to match the height of the bridges. When I shoulder my 404 (Stuarts action) I am looking well above the ¼ rib and it is lower than the bridges. I'm not sure what I'm typing is making any sense, so I will email you a picture.Also look at the thread in this sub forum from McKay about his wife's 6.5x55 that Ralph Martini did and look at that barrel.
John

Here is a photo of GD64's Satterlee barreled action in 404 Jeffery.
Notice the square bridges of the receiver have been machined down to a low height to that of a BRNO 21 or possibly ZG-47 height. What was taken in bridge height was replaced by height of scope ring. To me the rings look like the high ring offering by Morris Melani Alaska Arms. Morris also contoured the integral barrel and installed it to the action. With this square bridge height the lowest possible sight plane on the barrel works because the square bridges are taken down to a height even lower than any set of bases, integral, screw on or whatever the case may be.
Sitting here looking at this thing I would make an educated guess that the bottom of the rear sight dovetail is in the realm of .700 to .750 above boreline based on the idea that the chamber cylinder diameter is 1.250.

To make a "compatible" transision between iron an scope, I find one inch above bore CL prety well does the trick for most shooters

Otherwise, even a guy with high cheek bones is going to get a prety nasty snmack when he settles into irons...AND. with such an overly high comb, yu can easily run into cocking piece and comb conflict

Could be photo angle, but I'd be inclined to say the octagon flats are uneaqual...But damn nkce work !

Per Timan suggestion, the rib is narrow (still follows the barrel taper). This will become a 35 Whelen on a
Dakota Arms long action with Talley bases.
The fixed sight plane is 100/1000 below the top of the Talley base,
even with a 1.75" blank and the so called "goldline" is only 0.123", which could be argued it could be smaller?

Good machine work is always good to look at.

quote:

Originally posted by steve505:
Per Timan suggestion, the rib is narrow (still follows the barrel taper). This will become a 35 Whelen on a
Dakota Arms long action with Talley bases.
The fixed sight plane is 100/1000 below the top of the Talley base,
even with a 1.75" blank and the so called "goldline" is only 0.123", which could be argued it could be smaller?

That looks pretty good, but what if. Constructively, Narrower on the Q-rib to lessen the transition to the mid raised rib. More of a pre-war sporter barrel. My eye gets hung up at the transition at the front of the Q-rib and mid rib. IMO the design could flow a little better in that area. But then that's just my 2 cents worth. At the end of the day please the client, not everyone else. I also tend to think when looking at prewar sporter barrels they made designs that for the most part where easily executed by the equipment of that era which is another reason why you see the relative simplicity of those prewar barrel designs.

I have a barrel on order from Matrix...It's to be beasically the ilustraion shown, but without the raised sight base

I think it will be plumb swell,.... will post photos when received

Ive owned and shot a number of old world Mausers with half oct/half round and round or full oct, iron sighted with 4 leafs..Most shot well indeed and and hadn't changed zero in a 100 years give or take...I recall a JP Sauer and shons that shot an inch at 100 with the old world peep that I hunted with a good deal and owned for years and never touched the sight adjustments. I was offered it back for my Wesley Richards, I must say I was tempted, but passed..

I doubt if its any different than a round barrel, IMO all barrels can be degrees of greatness! What is really different is the true 98 mauser used in JP Sauer rifles were made by Jp Sauer under a contract from Mauser exclusive, a little know fact.

Strangely enough I just today bought/traded that old and beautiful JP Sauer & Sons back after about 30 plus years. What a reprieve from an old mistake. Modern day fairy tale of two happy campers.

ot my barrel a couple days ago..Darn fine work,. quick turn around and a righteous price. What's not to like?

Well....the transistion on each side of the quarter right at the chanmber will need some attention. Now...I know from expeerience, this is a pretty cranky area to get right. I think an octagon motiff is easier than the round...Mayhaps tweaking the program?

The other transistions are superb! I'll use Matrix' service again

Will post photos soon

Glad the design met your expectations.
Regarding the qrib, breech were their machining marks not fully file, polished out?
Steve

Realistically.......will. need some time in the mill....THEN file and abrasive