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What work needs to be done to a pre 64 M70 action to make it a top of the line action, ready for a high end custom rifle. Hal | ||
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Barrel it and stock it. But then I have simple tastes. | |||
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1)Prewar cloverleaf tang 2)Build up&checker bolt release 3)Engine turn bolt 4)Checker bolt handle 5)Oberndorf straddle FP&TG release 6)SAFE in gold 7)Ser# in gold+/- 8)Checker FP screws 9)Flame blue FP screws | |||
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KimR, if you have three or four for sale, I'll take them! | |||
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I am usually asked to build up and checker the bolt stop, sharpen up the lines and hand polish, and occasionally, fill in the hole in the bolt knob. Often the bol handle needs to be altered for more clearance as well. Jeweling of tje bolt is sometimes requested but not so much anymore. Regards, Bill | |||
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Rich,Lots of actions-0 for sale.Maybe a few guns. | |||
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Thank you guys for the replies and ideas. I have a later model 70 magnum action with a later bolt sleeve and "L" shaped safety lever. My action already has the - Clover Leaf Tang, that someone added - Blackburn bottom metal - action looks to be surface ground - hollow bolt handle was checkered & lightly engraved by Ralph Bone The inside of the action needs to be finished polished. Something I need to learn how to do. The action needs to be blue printed. Action threads checked, scope base holes alignment checked, recoil lug surface trued, action face squared. The bolt needs the rear recoil lugs surfaced trued, bolt face cleaned up, bolt polished. I would like to learn how to time the trigger/bolt and how to make ammo feed correctly. The safety also needs work as well as the trigger and bolt stop. A project for this winter. Can anyone give me any advice or recommend any books on action metal work. Thanks Hal | |||
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If you are lucky enough to have an early Pre-war (Serial Number less than 20,000) M70 action that is factory original and in excellent condition, don't change a thing (unless the floorplate and trigger guard bluing is faded as most are). For a custom hunting rifle, those polished receiver, "charcoal" blued actions are great just as they came out of the factory. If you want to scope the rifle you need not even need to drill and tap the bridge. Find an old Stith mount that uses the receiver sight holes for the rear base (I have several of them). | |||
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Vic My model 70 is a later production action. | |||
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not mine, but here is some inspiration. | |||
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Great looking rifle. Looks very clean with the rear tang hole welded closed. Hal | |||
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Looks like Mark Penrods work. Not many do a Model 70 action more justice. | |||
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Yes, you can look at more photos here for pre-64 metalsmithing ideas and inspiration. Make sure and look at the whole thread (photos in the beginning and photos at the end) http://forums.accuratereloadin...=699101457#699101457 | |||
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I'm lucky enough to have a similar LH classic version of the above 280. It has a slightly different bolt handle treatment and no irons but is otherwise the same. | |||
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One of Us |
What's the best way to weld up the tang hole and make it a blind hole? Make a thin threaded plug and weld in place or turn threads on a copper rod, screw the copper rod in from the bottom and weld in the tang hole from the top ? What type of welder works best for these jobs and what rod or filler to match the action's metal when blued? Hal | |||
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Depends on what you want or what you need! The world is your oyster with any action, add all the eye candy you like or can afford or just add a stock and go hunting.. A mod. 70 is the base for both. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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