Are they still available and what in general do they cost?
thanks
Mike

Call Paul Chapman at Griffin & Howe. They still have them.

Roughly $1400.00 to $1600.00 installed by G&H..last ones I did a year or so ago..Im sure that hasn't changed much.

Thanks guys. I saw one in the local shoot and rip off store for $195. I may go look at it some more.
Mike

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
Roughly $1400.00 to $1600.00 installed by G&H..last ones I did a year or so ago..Im sure that hasn't changed much.

$770 installed according to the link to their website that I posted.

I bought both my G & H mounts on eBay and had them installed by my gunsmith Ed La Pour. Like other posters have told you a new mount installed by G & H will cost you nearly $800.00. Purchased and installed both mounts cost me less than $800.00.

Guess they got cheaper since nobody uses them anymore..When I talked to them they had several options and ran from $1400 to $1600 according to the guy on the phone and that was a long time ago..They are an excellent mount and at the time they were side mounts. Today I think they have top mount options and that's a better deal. A drilled and tap on a win. mod 70 or any collector gun is the kiss of death, or is used to low ball the seller is more like it.

your price of $700 may not include the high cost of the mount????

Sorry to hijack the thread a bit, but I am researching the G&H Side Mount. How durable are they and how do they hold zero? I picked up a 9.3x62 C-Ring Husqvarna Mauser 98. It’s the commercial version with the charging hump and solid left wall. All original and 98% bluing. I would like to scope it but don’t know whether to just suck it up and have it drilled and tapped on top or do a classic side mount. The gun is about 45 years older than me(yes, I’m a youngster) and I’m looking forward to using it in the field.

quote:

Originally posted by +Templar+:
Sorry to hijack the thread a bit, but I am researching the G&H Side Mount. How durable are they and how do they hold zero? I picked up a 9.3x62 C-Ring Husqvarna Mauser 98. It’s the commercial version with the charging hump and solid left wall. All original and 98% bluing. I would like to scope it but don’t know whether to just suck it up and have it drilled and tapped on top or do a classic side mount. The gun is about 45 years older than me(yes, I’m a youngster) and I’m looking forward to using it in the field.

Definitely go with a G&H mount! They are the best of the side mounts and hold a zero perfectly in my experience.

Anyone have any pics of a G&H side mount on Mauser 98 with the scope detached? Curious how it looks removed. Also, are these steel or aluminum?

Jeager mount look much better. The mount is low and the ring have different heights. Though I'm not sure NECG has them. The G&H mount looks like an airplane hangar door on the side of the rifle.

Here's a G&H:

I had a G&H installed on a Model 54 when it was rebarrelled from 30-06 to 338/06AI. The stock had enough wood so that the base was inletted into it so that it didn't look "like a hanger door". It was a solid mount and the scope returned to "0" when it was removed/replaced. The mount was fitted to the side of the action but the rings placed the scope over the action.

quote:

Originally posted by richj:
Jeager mount look much better. The mount is low and the ring have different heights. Though I'm not sure NECG has them. The G&H mount looks like an airplane hangar door on the side of the rifle.

Here's a G&H:

I don't know who installed that G&H mount, but I suspect it wasn't G&H. G&H rings also have different heights.

Bases were installed that high back in the '30's, when scopes were regarded as unreliable and were mounted high to give access to iron sights without having to remove them.

quote:

Originally posted by +Templar+:
Sorry to hijack the thread a bit, but I am researching the G&H Side Mount. How durable are they and how do they hold zero? I picked up a 9.3x62 C-Ring Husqvarna Mauser 98. It’s the commercial version with the charging hump and solid left wall. All original and 98% bluing. I would like to scope it but don’t know whether to just suck it up and have it drilled and tapped on top or do a classic side mount. The gun is about 45 years older than me(yes, I’m a youngster) and I’m looking forward to using it in the field.

My opinion, I'd D&T it for a top mount, the side mounts look terrible. Warne makes bases for a 98 with a charging hump.

quote:

Originally posted by +Templar+:
Anyone have any pics of a G&H side mount on Mauser 98 with the scope detached? Curious how it looks removed. Also, are these steel or aluminum?

This one wasn't installed by G&H, but it looks to have been fairly well done.



Here's a Model 70 with a G&H installed mount.

Unless they changed, the base is left blank, one must contour the base to fit the action. The Mauser illustrated that looks high is because for whatever reason, I was purposely installed that way

Many Mousers have the base set high to accommodate those horrible European (mostly German) Potato masher looking scopes, with big bells on each end. Lordy how I hate big scopes on clean lean rifles...

Who ever installs the base, make sure they pin and screw the base to the action. Also, if you are using an action with a thumb cutout I recommend having the base contoured around the thumb cutout, see picture.

IIRC, the "old school" method of installation used by the original Griffin and Howe was to use screws and pins that protruded out from the surface of the base when installed. Than, they were machined off/blended with the base and refinished when the rifle was blued.

Classy!
John

former G&H employee did the work :-)

Thanks for posting all the pics. Definitely gives me an idea of what to expect if I go the G&H route. I found some pics of the Paul Jaeger side mount and really like it. Too bad NECG has discontinued them. With the scope removed, the base doesn’t extend wider than the bolt release.



Hopefully the pic posts correctly.

If I find a good Jaeger mount with the right rings, I will probably go that route. Anyone have any leads?

Proper installations goes beyond how the pins ands screws are installed in that you set your scope adjustments in the center of the optical plane, then using one screw you bore sight it, then add the a pin, maybe boht pins and screws..The mounting I witnessed was interesting when all was bore sighted they drove red hot pins in the holes and then set the screws or visa versa,not sure?? ON the range they made one adjustment click at 100 horizontally and 3 clicks vertical. I thought that was pretty snappy..The gunsmith was the late Tony Barnes of twin Falls, Id. I didn't witness the whole time frame as it was done over several days and I did miss a day but Tony explained the process to me..I don't see why most any real good gunsmith couldn't do it, but I sure would want to know how many he had done in the past.

I also would want the older all steel G&H,s not the aluminum..

I believe the side mount is best in that it leaves a clear receiver that you can see the iron sights over and that's the whole point of QD side mounts over top mounts. Most any top mount today obscures a good rear sight picture unless its on a ultra high rear ramp and that's ugly..

Templar: I have a Jaeger base..just pay postage if you want it..It's been contoured..I SUSPECT for 98

Both of my G & H mounts have a steel base and aluminum top half, all steel mounts haven't been made for many years and are scarce and hard to find. Never heard of red hot pins, the pins are taper pins and lock securely when inserted into the holes. G & H on customer request would install the mount so that the screws and pins were installed from inside the action into blind holes so that no screws or pins are visible from the outside. I don't kow if this option is still available nor what the upcharge would be over standard mounting. Both my mounts were installed by my gunsmith and have been trouble free.

The only mounting system better is the old Claw mounts of yesteryear and some custom claws made today I suspect are as good, but terribly expensive as a rule...I had Dennis Olson put a set of claws using modified Redfield rings of yesteryear. He charged me $300 at the time..I doubt anyone would do that today?

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
The only mounting system better is the old Claw mounts of yesteryear and some custom claws made today I suspect are as good, but terribly expensive as a rule...I had Dennis Olson put a set of claws using modified Redfield rings of yesteryear. He charged me $300 at the time..I doubt anyone would do that today?

John McLaughlin here in Helena told me he likes to do claw mounts, might be worth giving him a call. Not sure what he charges though.

Judging from the past forty years or so, the claw mount hardware is coming in with closer tolerances than ever..And I'm speaking of the front mount (where the hooks or claws are)

The rear lock up must always be a close hand fit. The cost, of course, is climbing and the variety is getting smaller year by year.

Still a fairly straight away claw mount system will be competitive with the side mount in cost. The cycling time (off/on) still can't be approached by any side mount

Several years ago I found a Mauser .22 RF sporter that had claw mount bases, I made the top half of the claw mount and can attest to the close tolerance fit required. After completing that I set about to make an all steel Griffin & Howe mount, it was a lot of work but well worth the effort.

I've always been curious what the pins were for. Seems with 3 screws that should be enough and keep the down number of holes drilled in the receiver.

quote:

Originally posted by Magnum Hunter1:
I've always been curious what the pins were for. Seems with 3 screws that should be enough and keep the down number of holes drilled in the receiver.

My guess would be that hardened tapered dowel pins are less likely to fracture than screws. Unless I'm mistaken, G&H is not the only kind to use them. I have never seen a G&H mount come loose.

Actually, taper pins are normally unhardened, When driven into a reamed tapered hole, that taper makes a vey rigid mechanical bond.

Sure is a barrel of laughs when asked to restore the action to original, however

G & H side mounts can be installed by G & H as low as the client requests. It permits, for example, a Leupold 2x7 scope to be installed so low that its front bell just clears the barrel on a pre-64 Model 70.
G & H custom rifles often used G & H side mounts in combination with an installed Lyman 48 receiver sight base, with the 48 slide stored in a trap butt plate. This allowed the scope to be quickly removed and the slide installed to quickly switch from scope to metallic sight use.

Here is a link to a site showing a typical 60's vintage G & H custom rifle using a G & H side mount.
Both appearance and function seem outstanding to me.

http://www.rogerbain.com/product/griffin-howe-70/