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So, I have a pre-64 M70 in .300 H&H. With 180 gr. partitions and 70.0 of H4831, it is an honest sub-moa shooter and delivers 2950 fps (chrono'ed). It's a basic model rifle. Plain wood, marginal recoil pad, 4# trigger (*at best). Metal's a bit dinged and the bluing's worn. I'm torn. It's a good shooter and I bought it with that expectation: a 60 year old rifle that's a throwback in time to a different age. I'm torn though. It's not a collector, but given new wood, a superior trigger job and a cerami-coat finish it would be a looker of high grade. But in the end it would be folly: I'd have a 60 year old rifle that had a face-lift. Talk me out of this, will ya? Regards, Robert ****************************** H4350! It stays crunchy in milk longer! | ||
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No, I never felt this way about my wonderful custom Mauser. | |||
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Enjoy the old girl as she is. PA Bear Hunter, NRA Benefactor | |||
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She's not a collector ... but a keeper with a lot of memories. Want to give her a facelift? Why not? I wouldn't go with a cerami-coat finish. I'd think she deserves a good rust blue. What ever you decide to do ... just enjoy! Mike -------------- DRSS, Womper's Club, NRA Life Member/Charter Member NRA Golden Eagles ... Knifemaker, http://www.mstarling.com | |||
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Leave he like she is... Mike Legistine actu quod scripsi? Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue. What I have learned on AR, since 2001: 1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken. 2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps. 3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges. 4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down. 5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine. 6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle. 7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions. 8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA. 9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not. 10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact. 11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores. 12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence. 13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances. | |||
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A good trigger job is an easy one. a new stock is just good sense, just be sure to keep the factory one. Am doing that with several pre-64s that I inherited. SSR | |||
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Give it a proper trigger job and put a new, red decelerator pad on it. That way you're dressing it up a bit but not messing with a gun that you already know. I did just that with one of my M70 300 H&H's, just enough new to freshen an old girl up. | |||
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I would probably leave it alone but if I really wanted to do something for it I would try to find someone who could make it showroom fresh. I wouldn't paint it. Terry -------------------------------------------- Well, other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play? | |||
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Perhaps sell it to me and releave you of this big delemia !!!! | |||
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I would re-blue it and restock it only if the stock is damaged. You didn't mention that it was, so just a good refinish might be appropriate. I have seen some really plain stocks come to life after simply refinishing them. They weren't exhibition pieces, but they looked good for their purpose. The British makers always intended that their arms be returned at some interval to be refreshed and kept in order. Americans seem to favor keeping things original even if that is really not a practical approach. To my mind a working rifle needs to be kept up and over time that will mean refinishing as needed. The only rule that I would follow is to stay in keeping with the original look of the arm. Meaning, if it was blued, keep it blued. Jeremy | |||
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eather go for the re-do or sell to me. if you go for it rust blue for sure. something about aged steel really takes the blue. anew dress allways makes an older girl feel new, lots of really good walnut out there. if i get it i will put it in a fine blank i have. eather way, do what your heart and wallet let you. d o m i t ! | |||
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A new looking rifle is a new looking rifle. You can guy those at the store. They only cost money. A rifle with character happens with use. Why not finish wearing all the original finish off of it to show the good times and memories you have had. Surely that is worth more than a new paint job? | |||
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Deep dark Rust Blue, with new wood would look very rich. Coatings tend to look cheap. Cheers, John Give me COFFEE and nobody gets hurt | |||
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Leave it alone. It has character. | |||
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Ain't no finer action than a 50s vintage Mod 70, 'cept a Pre War. Even better if it's a (transition) cloverleaf. Fix-er-up, esp. since it's a shooter. You may want to look into one of the Legend stocks as well, prolly the best synthetic stock out there (and better balanced than a lot of custom wooden stocks). There are two types of people in the world: those that get things done and those who make excuses. There are no others. | |||
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If you want a fiberglass stock, I could not agree more whole heartedly! This a D'Arcy Echols Legend stock. My Pre 64 M70 in 9.3x62. Alan | |||
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Given that the rifle is not a collector piece, I'd go ahead and buff it up however I pleased. Mike Wilderness is my cathedral, and hunting is my prayer. | |||
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The ultimate question is utility. Will you derive as much satisfaction or pleasure from the facelift of this rifle, or will you derive more satisfaction or pleasure from something else that you could spend that amount of money on. You may derive pleasure from looking at the updated rifle, but you may derive more pleasure from the memories of a hunt where you used the same rifle in the same condition its in. Its a very personal decision and regardless of what everyone here says, only you can make it based on your personality and your financial situation. | |||
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Conetrols just look fn awesome on a Mod. 70............. There are two types of people in the world: those that get things done and those who make excuses. There are no others. | |||
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WELL, ALL OF THIS HASN'T MADE M DECISION ANY EASIER! Feck. Sorry for the shouting. I managed to break 4 ribs in 6 places - the hydro-codone just kicked in... I'm currently leaning towards a stock strip and tung oil refinish. The varnish is 65% and rather nasty looking. The rifle finish has quite a few dings in it, enough so that a normal blue wouldn't really cover it but a Cerami-cote would. Currently using Talley's w/ QD mounts with a Zeiss Diavari 2.5-10x42 as the primary scope and a Zeiss 1.8-5.5 as a backup. (Note: the back up scope is a direct swap onto my Montana .375...it's rather convenient that way). Bah, This decision is the type of decision dreams are made of. The Pre-64 is on the bottom... Regards, Robert ****************************** H4350! It stays crunchy in milk longer! | |||
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Give the old girl a face lift, buy her a new dress and take her on a date. | |||
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I'd do the stock and leave the metal, unless there are rust issues I like the age on the metal. If you do refinish it I definitely wouldn't coat it, I'd do a hot or rust blue. that's just my opinion though, you can't really go wrong Red My rule of life prescribed as an absolutely sacred rite smoking cigars and also the drinking of alcohol before, after and if need be during all meals and in the intervals between them. -Winston Churchill | |||
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LEAVE IT ALONE!!that said find someone to refinish the stock with the original color stains&varnish,if you must.metal doesnt look that bad. | |||
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I agree with that!!! That is a nice old girl!
PA Bear Hunter, NRA Benefactor | |||
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I second the stock refinish, and leaving the metal alone. It is in nice condition. Jeremy | |||
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Hi, I would leave the rifle alone and hunt with it. Should you go another route, please aim for its original appearance in both metal and wood. Refinishing the stock and not honoring the metal. Well, geez, much like a rusty beat-up pickup with new mag wheels and new tires. The full-blown custom pictured earlier is great, but not for shallow pockets. There are ways in which one can pull off a complete restoration with judicious shopping. Ask Turnbull for the original Winchester specification on metal finish and shop refinishers who have a passion for originality. Re-finish the stock keeping in mind stock work is, for most of us, a purely subtractive endeavor and needs light hands and procedures. I wish I were in your shoes. Luck, Stephen | |||
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Turnbull does not do bolt action rifles to include pre 64 Winchester model 70's. PA Bear Hunter, NRA Benefactor | |||
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by airgun1: Turnbull does not do bolt action rifles to include pre 64 Winchester model 70's.[/QUOTE airgun1, My suggestion to call Turnbull was, as I posted, a query for Winchester finishing specifications only. Thanks for the information. Stephen | |||
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Ok, so I've hemmed and hawed about this long enough. For today, I'm gonna leave the old girl pretty much "as is" with nothing more than a stock strip and reseal with some Tung oil. I think nostalgia's won out here. One day I'll be able to pass along a 100+ year old rifle (hopefully to someone who will appreciate it) and be able to say "Yep, this is what they used wayyyy back when. It still kills just fine today and still groups at an inch or better". I have to say, I'm a sucker for nostalgia. Regards, Robert ****************************** H4350! It stays crunchy in milk longer! | |||
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Here is my ol prewin with a facelift in SA. DRSS: HQ Scandinavia. Chapters in Sweden & Norway | |||
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A new Timney trigger (model 401) that can adjust from 1 to 3 lbs would be great improvement and improve your shooting. A good trigger helps a lot to steady one's hand and avoiding pulled-shots. You may wish to consider doing this replacement, if so, go here: http://www.timneytriggers.com/...ew=wrapper&Itemid=61 The stock - re-doing or a replacement is up to your own aesthetic value system. To prevent rust and keeping the metal in good form, I would re-blue. Recoil-pads are consumables, the perish and go hard over time, and after 60 years a new pad can be had withot feeling guilty of being accused of extravagance. I would certainly be looking after such a fine rile that gave you such good service. Warrior | |||
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