I like the takedown handiness of travel but I also like the niftiness of a switchbarrel.

I intend to fit a second barrel to my takedown.

If I can't read ammo boxes and cartridge designations on guns perhaps I shouldn't be out there with a gun.

When it comes to being caught with the wrong barrel in the rifle I think it would be a wise thing to carry your switch barrel with the barrel of the calibre that will handle anything I could encounter.

That way you can only be overgunned on the little stuff.

My takedown travels taken down in a soft gunbag folded in half in the middle of my suitcase/duffel bag. That gives it plenty of protection from surrounding clothes.

Reading other posts.

I agree that a takedown case would be no lighter than an equivalent "one piece rifle" case. However a switch barrel case would be lighter due to the lack of the additional action and stock of the second rifle.

With baggage costs the way they are they're all too heavy.

The takedown/switch barrel case could be made shorter and therefore more manueverable in taxis, hotel foyers, small planes etc than the big double (two) rifle case.

Does anyone have a pic of the H&H take-down set up where the barrelled action is removed from the stock and the floorplate/trigger guard stays ?? I'm trying to see how they hold the floorplate in to the stock. I assume it is a couple of screws and the action still uses the original fore and aft bolts.
My 8-06 RCBS has a shotgun trigger guard fitted, so it is already attached to the stock and I thought this might be a good candidate for this type of take-down.

Roger

Roger,
Here is a link to the website of Dorleac & Dorleac Gunmakers in France. If the link works it should take you to a page showing the build of a take down Mauser with the Holland & Holland system.
http://www.dorleac-dorleac.com...ifle-7mm-rm/?lang=en

The rear portion of the top Tang seems to be the key to the system. It remains in place to lock the bottom metal into the stock.

What I would like to know is how the front guard screw is held captive with the bottom metal once the gun has been taken down ? Must be via a bushing or nut to keep it from falling out ? I would enjoy hearing from someone who owns or has handled one.

Wyatt

The H&H take down I took apart had the front guard screw held in place with a small pin through the screw.....simple.

Yes , very simple.... One of those things so simple I end up saying " why the #$@/ didn't I think of that " !

Thanks for the info Steve. Somehow I knew when we started talking Holland & Holland you would show up !

Wyatt

reminds me of an M1 Carbine

I just sent you a bunch of pictures of the H&H take apart system Wyatt.

Steve thanks for sending the pictures. I Always enjoy good pictures for future reference.

Compared to a standard Mauser, the head of the front guard screw on the Holland system is larger and with more of a rounded/dome shape. I assume this was an effort to make the screw slot more substantial and hold up better after being turned in and out when the gun is taken down....

Wyatt

No "tool" needed was the idea......perfect fit fir and English penny of the day.

I've asked this before without an answer but will try again.
What would be the expected cost of converting to an H and H takedown system? Thanks.

I can't answer your question on the cost. Maybe if you contacted Duane or Steve they could give you an estimate.

However I will go out on limb and say that most of the skilled Gunmakers capable of doing such work would probably only consider it as a complete build. Not just a conversion.

Wyatt

SKB, Steve, any chance of getting a copy of those pics ?......if you prefer, I can PM you my email address.

Roger

Thirdbite....I'll build you a custom but not interested in a retro fit. I have too many money loosing jobs on the bench already.


Sure Roger send me your email addy. It really is quite simple once you see it.

[QUOTE

What I would like to know is how the front guard screw is held captive with the bottom metal once the gun has been taken down ? Must be via a bushing or nut to keep it from falling out ? I would enjoy hearing from someone who owns or has handled one.

Wyatt[/QUOTE]

An easy way of retaining a screw like you describe is for the hole it goes through to be threaded the same pitch as the screw. The screw doesn't have threads for a certain distance from the head to the end of the threaded "bushing" or floorplate boss. The screw is threaded in until the thread runs out. Now you can't just pull it back out and it won't thread in any further until the action is brought in. Hope that makes sense. We use the same technique at work on customer accessible panels and parts that are removed and we don't want the screws getting lost. They stay with the part.

Gzig5 , thanks for posting that info. Not being a machinist or engineer by trade I sometimes get stuck thinking about these things that are downright simple.

Wyatt

I've handled a few riles with this system..they all had plenty of years on them and the upon "tightening" the front guard screw, the floorplates went beyond battery and has to be swung back (loosening the screw in the process)

The last one I did used an allen head screw captured as described above. A wrench went into the trap door grip cap.

I don't like to rely on tools for a TD system. but this was a reasonable compromise

While I appreciate the cleverness and the craftsmanship required to make a takedown rifle, I question the real world practicality of it all. They are generally made for a "traveling rifle". Who, after flying halfway around the world, or across the continent, doesn't test fire/confirm zero once they arrive at the hunt location? In which case, you may as well just pull the action out of the stock, and you have a compact package for free. All it takes is the basic tools which you should have with you anyway. If you do a good bedding job, and re-assemble in a consistent manner, your zero is going to be pretty dang close anyway.

Jeff

quote:

Originally posted by akjeff:
While I appreciate the cleverness and the craftsmanship required to make a takedown rifle, I question the real world practicality of it all. They are generally made for a "traveling rifle". Who, after flying halfway around the world, or across the continent, doesn't test fire/confirm zero once they arrive at the hunt location? In which case, you may as well just pull the action out of the stock, and you have a compact package for free. All it takes is the basic tools which you should have with you anyway. If you do a good bedding job, and re-assemble in a consistent manner, your zero is going to be pretty dang close anyway.

Jeff

I’ve got some bolt take-downs. Downside of taking barreled action out of the stock is it is not as short for traveling. And tools needdd. I have not traveled with a long case now since I think about 2008. So much nicer.

A real take down would definitely make for a more compact package Mac, no argument from me there. My redneck take down's fit into a case that's handy enough for my needs. The only tool required is a hollow handle screwdriver with tips for every fastener on my rifle, which I would have with me no matter what. Lots of ways to skin a cat.

Jeff

I have had a few take-down rifles over the time and realize everytime I really don´t need to take anything apart. The only real takedown rifle I would see come in handy would be a doublerifle which is shorter to begin with and even shorter when taken down.

That is why. Wanted a small package for travelling and not a long case


And that is how:


Realized by H&W .
Interrupted trapezoidal threads,Cal.416 Rigby and .300 H&H , therefore the second bolt.

Can you tell us about what that package weighs?

I remember reading somewhere about a normal screw-in barrel type of take-down that had a small taper cut into the receiver and a matching male taper machined behind the barrel thread to help align the two when screwed back together.
Has anyone seen or heard of this and is it of any advantage ?.......anyone got any pics ??

Roger

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Can you tell us about what that package weighs?

5,9 Kg without scopes.