I have been searching with no luck. Can anyone find the link to the write up that Duane did years ago on his process?
Thanks!
Mac

He used to have it on his website.

Ya looked for it there.

I was watching a guy finish a piece of furniture on youtube about a week ago. He had a can of Ship'n Shore Sealer in his hand.

I think that is one Duane uses

Here's some of it, enough to figure it out, also go to the next page.

http://forums.accuratereloadin...043/m/347103474/p/13

Greg

I saved Duane’s stock finishing method from his website a few years ago.

———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————-

Stock Finishing

Duane widely uses products by Daly's Inc. in Seattle for stock finishing. After sanding to 400 grit, follow these steps:

1. Raise the grain with a weak solution of oxalic acid (a powder), to cleanse and bleach the wood.

2. Apply a solution of Daly's "Ship n' Shore " sealer using alkenet root powder in the ratio of about one 1 1/4 oz packet to a quart...you can "strengthen" as you see fit...maybe up to 50%.

3. Liberally slop on the sealer combo over a period of about 2 hours until the wood will not seem to take more.

4. Wipe off excess with a paper towel and set stock aside for a day or so.

5. Do it again..set aside for a day and do it again. You are tring to get as much finish as possible into the pores.

6. Now...with alkenet root and "Sea Fin" solution, repeat as with "Ship n' Shore"..maybe two or three times. You have come a long way towards filling up those pores!

7. Not done yet!

8. Buy some rottenstone and mix with Sea Fin solution to a tooth paste like consintency and using a piece of felt or a pad from an old t shirt, "scrub" this mixture on the stock across grain. You are filling the pores and polishing as the same trime. Don't let it get too hard, wipe off the excess across grain, being very careful to not allow build up in the nooks and crannies.

9. Do this over and over again until satisfied with the result…typically 20-30 times while allowing a drying time of 24 hours or so between treatments. This is not a quick way, but you will be very proud of the result.
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quote:

Originally posted by setters5:
Here's some of it, enough to figure it out, also go to the next page.

http://forums.accuratereloadin...043/m/347103474/p/13

Greg

Well done for posting this Setters5, I had it bookmarked for ages but then the photos disappeared thanks to Photobucket.
One of the best threads ever.

I had saved the photos, but couldn't figure out how to save the text.

Greg

quote:

Originally posted by setters5:
I had saved the photos, but couldn't figure out how to save the text.

Greg

The way I save text is to

1. Open a blank Word document

2. Highlight the text you want to copy with the left button on your mouse.

3. With your cursor on the highlighted text, click the right button of your mouse

4. That opens another window, and left click on "copy"

5. Open your blank word document, place the cursor where you want to save the text, and right click your mouse.

6. Another window will open, and left click on "paste"

The text is now on your word document and you can now save, edit, or whatever with that document.

Interesting or me to see this...Noting much is brand new and that sequence was not either...Came from Holland and Holland about 35 yrs ago..only they specified linseed oil.

Add alkenet root to the Sea Fin and it will color the rottenstone quite nicely

I have the article and the color photos off his web page printed, but have no clue how to send them out...I intend to do a stock like that sometime in the future, just have not got around to it..Now if I can just find where I put that stuff..

His application is pretty basic, the addition of Alkanet root is the part that interests me the most..Duane sells Alkanet root in small packages and it works better than the sticks Ive played with in the past, much better..and you don't have to boil it.

The Daly's SeaFin carries a lot of silcon filler. I use it on furniture, etc. Works well.

quote:

Originally posted by Alec Torres:
The Daly's SeaFin carries a lot of silcon filler.

Where do you get this info from?

quote:

Originally posted by gunmaker:

quote:

Originally posted by Alec Torres:
The Daly's SeaFin carries a lot of silcon filler.

Where do you get this info from?

Sorry - I double checked an the product I use on furniture is ProFin . It has a lot of silicon filler, which becomes evident when it is sanded or rubbed into the wood. SeaFin may, or may not, have the same fillers. Sorry for the inaccurate post.

I'm pretty sure the Satin Pro-Fin has silica, but the gloss does not. This is why Tucker uses the gloss Pro-Fin for finishing gunstocks and not the satin.

Pro Fin contains a litle more poly...I've use it...works fine, just need to speed the process up a bit since it "gums up" faster. There's a little paranoia re silica.

I don;'t believe there's anything wrong with silca...some say "It really dulls checkering tools" Well,,,when you wet sand, your're leaving behind a slurry of wood dust and SILICON CARBIDE!.

I use Pro-Fin, and carbide checkering tools. But I stain after filling with spirit stain.
I believe all "satin" finishes have silica added to dull the look of the finish.

quote:

Originally posted by gunmaker:
...This is why Tucker uses the gloss Pro-Fin for finishing gunstocks and not the satin.

i assume you mean James Tucker?

Yep!
At least he used to.

James, what was that 22 on your website built from?

Greg

That's a Brno Mod1

Thanks

quote:

Originally posted by SDH:
I use Pro-Fin, and carbide checkering tools. But I stain after filling with spirit stain.
I believe all "satin" finishes have silica added to dull the look of the finish.

Steve: When you refer to spirit stains, do you mean analin dyes?

Alcohol base stains are called 'spirit stains', they penetrate deeply. The pigment is another matter, aniline is one of the least light fugitive pigments; does not fade with exposure to light. I use an aniline pigment spirit stain. Stocks are filled with Daly's ProFin and rottenstone, top coated with Daly's BenMatte. Stain is Behlen brand "American Walnut" tone.

Spirit stained English walnut.

Same stock before finishing and staining

Spirit Stained English walnut

Spirit Stained English walnut

Custom English walnut grips, Spirit Stained

Spirit Stain curly sugar maple

Spirit stained English walnut

Maurice Otmar used a similar process for finish.

Ship and shore sealer. Then McCklosky spar varnish with bakelite filler thinned 50/50. Fast pore fill...2 coats maximum. To Ship n Shore and rubbed out with rottenstone.
Great finish with pores filled black and easy on checkering tools.
Fast forward 20 years. Carbide checkering tools and sheer beauty of the Wiebe method...preferred.

Last I heard Daly's went out of business? Are they still around or are you folks using other products now?

I saw this last year and was bummed. Just used the last of my Teak oil on my swim step.

https://www.seattletimes.com/b...lys-ends-in-the-red/

quote:

https://www.seattletimes.com/b...lys-ends-in-the-red/

Well that ended this thread on a sour note.

Dave

Hoping someone scooped up the scraps and has the ship running again!

I'm doing my second stock with Waterlox. This time using D'Arcy Echols method. It is quicker and is yielding a good result.

The pertinent question seems to be what are those who used Daly's using now?

Only that retail store in WA. State closed. Daly's is still readily available.


https://www.amazon.com/DALYS-W...Seafin/dp/B01CPRLW2K

That’s good news!

It read like the business that produces it went under.

I use "stains"only in desperation. Tends to make the wood all one color. The subtle hues get lost.

I would use stains only as a last resort, using the right piece of wood goes a long ways. Alkanet root is the only "stain" if you call it that, I use on occasion..