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1910 Mexican Action question
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posted 02 July 2014 20:45
Has anybody seen (or have pictures of) a 1910 Mexican Mauser receiver that has had the left sidewall milled similar to a G33.40? Not talking about the cuts below the stock line, just the one above the wood on the left side. The small ring receiver is kind of "plain" on the left side, and unlike the 1936, the S/N on the 1910 is usually located forward of the area in question. Just wondering. Roll Eyes
 
Posts: 1366 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: 10 February 2003Reply With Quote
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posted 03 July 2014 17:49Hide Post
I think I have seen photos, somewhere on one of these forums.

Or it might have been a 1909 Peruvian or an 03 Turk ground to small ring and then had the sidewall cut, not sure.

Try searching for 'Small Ring Mauser'.
 
Posts: 266 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 09 September 2008Reply With Quote
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posted 03 July 2014 18:05Hide Post
I have since found pictures of a rifle, described as a 1910 Mexican, with this treatment so apparently it can be done.
This picture is from 24 Hr. Campfire posted by TexasJohn, I believe.
 
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posted 03 July 2014 20:00Hide Post
I do not think that the rifle pictured is a 1910 Mexican, unless of course the thumb cut was also redone as the 1910 Mexican thumb cut only comes to about the center of the bolt release.
 
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posted 03 July 2014 20:17Hide Post
disassembly - I agree. That's why I worded the picture's description as I did. It was from this thread: 2012 Thread
 
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posted 03 July 2014 22:43Hide Post
Here's a 1931 I did a while back



Michael J
 
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posted 03 July 2014 23:00Hide Post
Probably easier to extend the thumb cut as shown (similar to 1936 Mexican) when doing the sidewall lightening cut.
 
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posted 04 July 2014 02:46Hide Post
michaelj - Did you enlarge the thumbcut? I've never seen that style of recoil lug on a 1910 before, though certainly I have not seen that large of a sample.
 
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posted 04 July 2014 05:03Hide Post
The thumb cut on michaelj's '31 looks exactly like the one on my '36.
 
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posted 04 July 2014 07:29Hide Post
Yeah, that's what I was thinking, but there's no way a model 1936 could be dated 1931.
 
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posted 04 July 2014 08:56Hide Post
The 1910 and the 1936 are both small ring 98s. The main difference, I believe, is the bolt knob cocking piece on the '36. So, I would say the '31 pictured is a 1910, unless it's a large ring, which would make it an FN24 Mexican.
 
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posted 04 July 2014 19:34Hide Post
In addition to the pull knob cocking piece, which is often not present, the 1936 has a gas port on the left side and a much larger thumb notch than the 1910.
 
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posted 04 July 2014 22:59Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Glen71:
In addition to the pull knob cocking piece, which is often not present, the 1936 has a gas port on the left side and a much larger thumb notch than the 1910.


And a small round vent on the right side as well.
 
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posted 05 July 2014 02:14Hide Post
Glen,
If you want a similar one done, Karl Feldcamp did one for me on an old Mini Mauser.




Hopefully Dean Zollinger will be done with the stock soon.
 
Posts: 8964 | Location: Poetry, Texas | Registered: 28 November 2004Reply With Quote
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posted 05 July 2014 03:20Hide Post
A one hundred and four year old mexican probably can't do much work---

just give him his retirement check--

Whistling


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posted 06 July 2014 19:20Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by craigster:
The 1910 and the 1936 are both small ring 98s. The main difference, I believe, is the bolt knob cocking piece on the '36. So, I would say the '31 pictured is a 1910, unless it's a large ring, which would make it an FN24 Mexican.


Did I buy that Mexican from you? If not, the one I am asking about has a 1931 stamp and a knurled cocking piece. Does that mean it is not a '36??

Jim


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
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Posts: 5535 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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posted 06 July 2014 20:27Hide Post
Jim,

With the 1931 date stamp it sounds like a M 1910 to me, with a substituted M 1936 cocking piece.
 
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posted 06 July 2014 21:12Hide Post
Well, I went back and looked, took a few pix and am sure it is a 1936. It is dated 1940 and has the oblong hole in left side and small round hole in the right side,What say you? thus:


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
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posted 07 July 2014 00:31Hide Post
Jim K. Yours is definitely a 1936 Mexican Mauser. The picture further up in the thread is a 1910. I can't see any advantage to thinning the left receiver wall. Ron
 
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posted 07 July 2014 00:48Hide Post
Esthetics!
 
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posted 07 July 2014 04:16Hide Post
Another "uniqueness" to the 36 Mex is the bottom metal. It's shallower the other 98s, roughly 9/64 (+/-), but it still holds 5 rounds down. Makes for a nice slim grip/wrist. Not real familiar with the 1910, but it may use the same bottom metal as well.
 
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posted 07 July 2014 17:49Hide Post
Hello and sorry for the late reply as I was out of town and away from a computer. The cut doe's nothing but look a little nicer in my opinion and of course lightens it just a tad. The cut on the front of the recoil lug is like that which you would see on small ring Mausers specifically a Swede. I like these little actions for lightweight mountain style rifles and I am completing one in 7x57 with a blind box mag which will come in at 6lbs or a tad less all finished.


Michael J
 
Posts: 485 | Location: Lakewood Colorado | Registered: 17 February 2008Reply With Quote
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posted 08 July 2014 03:38Hide Post
If you thin the receiver wall on a 1936, then you must tig the hole up, and it can be done but to my mind its not the best of practices..Removing that pretty little Springfield cocking piece is akin to sodomy and child molestation, and those that do so should be stringhaultered and gilflurted! Roll Eyes ..


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Posts: 42334 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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posted 08 July 2014 04:51Hide Post
considering the cost to pay the custom metal smith to do all of this work to an action, would it not be more prudent to just use a G.33/40 action in the first place.

I am aware they are getting scarce, but it seems they pop up here and there on a somewhat regular basis.

I mean, if you want a G.33/40 then I guess buy a G.33/40 action and if you want the very fine Mexican Action then buy that.
 
Posts: 2059 | Location: Mpls., MN | Registered: 28 June 2014Reply With Quote
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posted 08 July 2014 09:45Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by lindy2:
considering the cost to pay the custom metal smith to do all of this work to an action, would it not be more prudent to just use a G.33/40 action in the first place.

I am aware they are getting scarce, but it seems they pop up here and there on a somewhat regular basis.

I mean, if you want a G.33/40 then I guess buy a G.33/40 action and if you want the very fine Mexican Action then buy that.


Unless of course you want a Mexican 98 that looks like a G33/40. Remember, the Mexican is an intermediate length action. Sometimes you don't need a standard length action.




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