I have a 1930's JP Sauer 9.3x57. It's all original except the refinish on the stock, which I also epoxy bedded due to a critical crack.

It's a really rifle. I had intended to leave it iron sights and with the original military trigger..... but I like to shoot my rifles.

The iron sights are horrible, hard to see and little adjustment. I plan to leave the buffalo butt plate, just need to get it recheckered.

The military trigger is a beast as well.

Questions:
1. Which trigger should I go to? Just a standard Timney?

2. What scope mounting options should I look into? I want to keep it low cost, so that leaves out claw mounts. I was thinking about the EAW mounts? I don't think those are much cheaper though.

3. For sights, I was thinking two routes
a. Mounting a 4x Weaver (per the mounting options)
b. Or staying with iron sights, but upgrading to some from NECG

4. Any thoughts on receiver mounted rear peep sights, in place of the scope? Or I could do the scope and use a peep sight that mounts on the rear scope base?


I hate to monkey with the rifle anymore, but I want to make it a "huntable' rifle.

Advice?

1. Replace trigger, I use Timney or Bold , both are good values.
2. Install a nice vintage (Lyman or Redfield all steel) receiver style peep sight, and front sight of your choice, depends on how much $s you want to spend.

At this point the rifle should be huntable as long as you can use the receiver sights effectively. Worry about the scope later. If you haven't yet, take a look at the pictures I posted in the sporterized milsurp forum.

Since you say you are planning on having the checkering re-cut - spend a little bit more and have a good gunsmith work on the original trigger as well. It shouldn't cost more than a Timney and will keep the rifle as close to original as possible.

Most of the older quality rifles didn't need a lot of adjustments on the rear sight as they were hunting rifles and were regulated pretty well. If it is the front sight you can't see you can keep the original and replace the front blade.

then I would try to learn how to use the rifle as it is. Use it for special hunts where you can appreciate the rifle for what it is. THEY AREN'T MAKING ANY MORE OF THEM.
If you need a scoped rifle go to WalMart and buy a Ruger American it will be cheaper than fixing the Sauer correctly.

Personally I find some one who thinks that old mausers are just plain great.

Then take the money and buy a modren rifle wih all the goodies you want.

quote:

THEY AREN'T MAKING ANY MORE OF THEM.

There is a reason for this.

quote:

Questions:
1. Which trigger should I go to? Just a standard Timney?

2. What scope mounting options should I look into? I want to keep it low cost, so that leaves out claw mounts. I was thinking about the EAW mounts? I don't think those are much cheaper though.

3. For sights, I was thinking two routes
a. Mounting a 4x Weaver (per the mounting options)
b. Or staying with iron sights, but upgrading to some from NECG

4. Any thoughts on receiver mounted rear peep sights, in place of the scope? Or I could do the scope and use a peep sight that mounts on the rear scope base?

1) I put a bold trigger from Brownells in my M98 Husky. Works like a charm.

2) Mine is irons only. I wanted to keep it classic.

3) I built a rear sight to fit in the factory dovetail and installed an NECG Banded front sight on mine.

4) See #2. If you want to keep it low-cost and ulility then peeps, cocking piece peeps and other sights are just going to ratchet up the cost and increase fragility.

The checkering was already nicely re-cut before I got it. Just had to refinish and fix the numerous deep dings and scratches (filled most of them).

I think a new front blade is a good idea.

The idea I had for the rear site was to make a copy of the Lyman #35 receiver sight:

1. Purchase a Lyman 57 WJS receiver peep sight (the Mauser version mounts on the right side of the receiver with screws, the WJS mounts on the left)
2. Modify the piece that mounts to receiver to fit over the bolt release like the original Lyman #35 OR make a new base piece that accepts the adjustable portion of the Lyman sight.

I know, this sounds like a lot of work, but it would prevent any modifications to the metal work except a new front blade (and I might be able to get away with the current one).

I had a very good, reputable gunsmith look at the trigger and he said there wasn't much more he could do - and recommended a replace trigger. I most likely would install the rear peep sight as I outline above and try that first before changing the trigger.

Sounds like you are on the right track.
A striker mounted peep is another idea that would be period correct and not change the rifle.

quote:

Originally posted by Austin Hunter:
I had a very good, reputable gunsmith look at the trigger and he said there wasn't much more he could do - and recommended a replace trigger.

He sounds like a parts-changer rather than a competent smith. IIWY I'd look for a new smith.

The original trigger can readily be altered to have its second stage break like the proverbial glass rod, it's not difficult for any competent gunsmith. LOTS cleaner and more elegant than a relatively cheap modern replacement!

And no wood removal required!
Regards, Joe

What JD said, plus, log on to the nitroexpress forum to get a feel for what Mauser sporting rifles are, were, should be, and can be. One never knows; you may have a gem there.

Stephen

Here's a response I sent via PM; thought it might be of interest to some of you here...

"Austin, one of the keys to this refinement is to remove all vertical play in the bolt sleeve when the bolt is closed, so as to provide a consistent sear engagement. The SOP for removing the slop is to install a pair of pins or similar on the bottom of the bolt sleeve, to engage on the upper surfaces of the top tang immediately behind the rear receiver ring as the bolt is closed into battery.

After the lost vertical motion is removed then the double-hump of the trigger can be carefully stoned and polished to crisp-up the second-stage pull. A pull of 2 lb (32 oz) is easily achievable if wanted, although a pull this light will require the expert use of polishing stones and perhaps even lapping compound.
Good luck, Joe"

I've done this mod on a number of Mausers and 1903 Springfields, maybe a couple dozen in all. It works. I got the idea from examining prewar 1903 Springfield sporters built by quality makers such as G&H and similar.
Regards, Joe

Further thoughts.

Commercial Mauser 22rfs often had small round-headed screws installed in the rear hump position on the trigger. These were adjustable for protrusion and this allowed the second-stage pull to be easily adjusted for a 'no-creep' crisp letoff. Easy alteration for any military action, no?

In one old gunsmithing book I remember seeing a military trigger with a tiny roller installed in the forward hump position. I assume the roller's slot was cut completely through the center of the rear hump for ease of machining but the drawing didn't specify.

So, there you go! Food for thought, anyway...

And, to me at least, a lot more preferable for a classic rifle than merely changing parts and cutting original wood!

Plus, retaining the original double-stage trigger also allows you to retain the original commercial bolt-lock spring & plunger with its built-in overtravel stop capability.

And if your Mauser doesn't already have this cute little Oberndorf bolt-lock mod, it's super-easy to fab up for any 98 action.
Regards, Joe

Making a few little changes will take it out of collectability to most collectors..so I would just fix it up the way I want it and use it..I just had my 9x57 rebored to a 375x9.3x62 or a 9.5x62 if you prefer, installed a Timney, redid the original bottom metal and set the trigger back in the trigger guard. The original bore was not great, it didn't shoot well at all, and it also miked at .364 according to High Plains Reboreing and he said that wasn't all that unusual and suggested a .375 of some sort.

They are great old guns but original is original and even glass bedding will ruin that or at least that is what the collectors always tell you when they are buying and you are selling. That applies to anything collectable I believe.

IMO a good shot in the arm enhances these old guns when done within reason, and they make up into some of the nicest rifles you can own. Just my opine however. However I am also opined that if its 100% original and in very good condition the don't touch it at all.

I can't wait to send some 260 gr. Noslers down that new/old tube at what? 2800 FPS..

Oh yeah it has claw bases and Dennis Olson is making me some rings. He also set the barrel/lugs back strengthen the front ring from the claw cut. I guess thats a good idea, but I have shot them many times before with the claws and no modification and never had a problem??

Now you're making want to do a whole new stock and barrel for it

You have the raw materials - now all it takes is $$$

Update - I put in a Huber Concept trigger tonight. Fit in nicely, just had to drill a small hole to accommodate one of the adjustment screws. It is just the trigger, the remainder of the trigger assembly stays in place. It has adjustable creep, overtravel, and break. Very nice trigger.

quote:

Originally posted by 458Win:
A striker mounted peep is another idea that would be period correct and not change the rifle.

My thoughts exactly! If you are looking for one, P.M. me. I have the address and phone number, somewehere, of a fellow who makes reproductions of Rigby diopter cocking piece peep sights.
Matt

I can thoroughly recomend the bolt mounted that Matt is talking about. I bought one for my 7x57 and it is a very well made unit and Rob is a great guy to deal with.

The Huber trigger has a ball bearing that is adjustable in height. By adjusting the creep screw you can make it two stage. I put just a bit of creep in it and eliminated all over travel associated with the standard military trigger.

I don't have a pull weight scale, but probably 2-3 lbs now, which is fine for an iron sight right that I intend to shoot at very short distances.

BTW - here is the horn butt plate that I had recheckered. I need to clean up and time the screws still.

Rigby-style bolt peep sights
Robert Zimmerman

Rusty's Action Works
186 Rectory Rd.
Montross, VA 22520

rusty42marlin@yahoo.com

804-493-9370
5:30-9pm weeknights only