Hi guys,

In something like a 30-06 or 300wm, what is the lightest profile barrel you would flute to save weight without expecting it to effect accuracy.

I'm looking at a 22-24" barrel and will probably use a lothar walther in stainless. I am looking for a longish range gun that will be carried on less than flat ground!!

I'm also curious to know what weight comes out of the barrel through fluting.

K

The view on stainless and light barrel profiles varies according to which side of the pond you are.

US companies seem quite wary of very thin stainless barrel profiles let alone fluting. Europeans seem less concerned.

The US view seems to stem from concerns over metallurgy issues in very cold temperatures.

The lightest profile I have seen (and have) is on a factory remington titanium. I really wouldn't want to go lighter than that - it doesn't have enough meat to provide a shoulder for a moderator with a 1/2" UNF thread. It is however very accurate - but that's at 18"

You should consider shortening from the breech end of the blank to get rid of the 'swamp' ie the parrallel bit so beloved by smiths etc for ease of holding. It's not necessary and has a lot of meat. Winchester proved it's not required with the featherweight profile.

Beware of going below 8lbs - it may be a pleasure to carry but you will want the weight when it's in the aim.

Oh and another very cheap and effective way to save weight is to move to a blind mag. If you're mountain stalking you will not be unloading and reloading all the time.

Thanks mate,

The weight of rifle vs recoil was a driver for me in erring to the 30-06 possibly improved.

To be honest I have my 260, but am selling my sauer 202 so it is an opportunity to put another gun in the cabinet.

I'm occasionally coming up against opportunities in Africa that I think a 140gr bullet is marginal on as well as wanting another long range gun with a bit more punch for rutting stags and the like.

Pm me your number if ou get a minute and we can have a catch up as I lost your contact details when I left work a while back.

You may be able to guide me to a suitable smith for the project.

K

Problem with fluting light contour barrels is there is very little weight reduction. One inch less barrel remove more weight from a barrel with a .600 muzzle or less diameter. As suggested, reducing the diam. of the shank or the length will result in as much weight savings. I would go with the Feather weight contour (Win style) instead of wasting money on tiny grooves in a light barrel.

years ago Johnston arms [later gartman arms] made up a selection of different calibers barrels from timkin steel called batam weight barrels they where 20 inches long and weighted 2 pounds. they made for a very light and accurate sporter. I had owned a couple of them in .308 and .35 rem. [they where stolen] built on a 98 mauser action. If you could locate one of those barrels it would make for a very light accurate sporter.

I had this rifle built in 1982 in 30-06 using the factory barrel and rebarreled with a 26" Lija using the same contour in 30-06AI. Lilja simply copied the contour of the 1st barrel. Muzzle dia .552"; pencil thin.





Even super thin it is very accurate. 818 yds.



Alan

I second avoiding stainless and fluting. Any barrel thick enough to flute is usually much heavier that a light profile of the same length. And a quality barrel will put two or three rapid shots closer together than you can hold in the field. No need to go with the 300 Mag or the Ackley either; just find a 30-06 load you like and learn how it shoots at the distances you plan to experience. The animals won't know the difference.

A carbon steel barrel Melonited (QPQ in this country) will be much more corrosion resistant than stainless and will outlast stainless, too.