I just cut a cherry tree that may have 2-3 Gunstocks in it. It is about 16" at the big end and 4 feet long. I think I can get the sawyer to cut one slab containing the heart and one slab on either side of that. I don't believe the log is big enough for quarter sawing for Gunstocks. I'd like to hear comments on sawing orientation. Also should the slabs be 2-1/2" or 3" thick?

https://i.imgur.com/j53mzbJ.jpg

link doesn't work

Most Cherry really likes to warp and twist as it drys.

I would always try to cut a thin piece taking out the center of the heart, say 1 inch thick.
Then you can get two nice thicker slabs on each side of that.

Real funny, my Dad cut a bunch of it in the early 60's at 3 Inch thick, and BOY did it twist during drying, but he also had it about 8 foot long.

I cut one tree up in the late 80's at 3 inch thick but shortened up the blanks ASAP to about 42 inch long, then sealed them well, and they did not twist very much.

So the twisting may just be due to each tree and how it grew.

Paint the ends and a couple of inches up from each end ASAP to seal it. Any cheap Latex paint will work.

No need to go over 3 inch thick, but 2 1/2 inch may be a little on the thin side for Cherry.

But again each tree is like a Woman each has their own way going thru life.

J Wisner

I fixed the link. I'm thinking that I should cut the log perpendicular to the walking stick in the photo. I like Jim's idea of a 1" slab through the heart and two 3" slabs on the sides.

Any way for you to quarter saw?...slab sawn is always 2nd choice..and...will end to twist and warp more

Just a rookie view, outside looking in.

I'd be concerned about that crack in the middle. Changing the cut 90 degrees should offer less trimming at the heart for a slab that is quarter sawn. Very impressive chunk of cherry. Wow! That's clean.

quote:

Originally posted by Vol717:
I fixed the link. I'm thinking that I should cut the log perpendicular to the walking stick in the photo. I like Jim's idea of a 1" slab through the heart and two 3" slabs on the sides.

I would cut the blanks radially to yield quarter sawn pieces.

I cut and use a lot of cherry from off my property. It makes beautiful cabinets!
Anyway, as said, paint the ends, sticker and rachet strap the crap out of it. Then cover it in sawdust. The moisture will slowly seep into the sawdust and all dry at a nice, even, slow pace. I hate to tell you, but even then it could twist, but that will give you the best chance. I use this way when I have wide, long slabs cut to make tables or doors out of, that need to be very straight.

1) Seal the ends as soon as you can to preventing splitting and cracking.
2) Get it sawn as quickly as you can. Easier/better to saw fresh log.

The diameter on the small end "inside the bark" will drive the size board / cant/ slab out of the log. If the big end of a 4 ft log is 16" outside, I would guess about about 12" inside the bark on the small end.

12" on small end would square up about 8"x8" cant. Take 3" cut off either side of that. Leave 2" thick section of heartwood for something else after it heart checks.

Sawing in this manner will likely cause the blanks to bend toward the outside of the tree due to tension in the wood. Stack and sticker them with the "hump" up. Put more stickers on top, and then what ever you have for weight on top of that...

If that's a veneer log, it will buy all the best cherry blanks you could possibly want.

I did get the log sawed. Took two nice 3" slabs outside the heart area and about a 3.5" slab at the heart. There was enough wood on both sides of the heart to yield two stocks with no heartwood. The wood is very pretty, almost orange. It's stickered and will dry for a few years before I do anything with it, if I ever do. I have two other cherry gunstock blanks that are over 30 years old with only minor checks in the endgrain. The fellow I got them from put them in the attic of his house and left them there all that time. I made two other of his blanks into martini .22 stocks and they are fine.

As much work as one puts into building a custom stock, I can't understand using any wood but Turkish walnut, or any European walnut..I favor Russian walnut, grown in the worst of weather conditions, but for no particular reason over Turkish or the old French if you can find it..I thougt Cherry was plain as colored glass, all Ive seen was..Id like to see a heavy grained piece of cherry, that would be beautiful if it exists..?????

I have two stocks in curly cherry. The curl is subtle but there. Fiddleback maple stained dark with ferric chloride is my favorite wood for Gunstocks. In addition to muzzleloaders, I have one bolt rifle stocked full length fiddleback maple. I have two more of the finest blanks I've ever seen that I hope to stock one day. I'm stocking a Highwall with fiddleback right now.

Nice cherry from my place has orange and red, with beautiful black mineral streaks. Not long ones like walnut, shorter and thinner, but very striking.

Sure would like to see photos of all this beautiful cherry

Duane, I have never cut one into a stock blank. I use it for furniture and such. But, when I plane out a nice piece, I'll get my niece to take a picture. I'll have to send it to your reg e-mail.

Cherry goes good with black walnut but then everything goes good with black walnut. I built quite a few in the day using birdseye maple for the stock with black walnut for the end + grip caps. Beautiful combo.