These are more current photos.







I hope you like it. Jim is a real craftsman and was real easy to deal with.
Thanks Jim
Butch

Butch,

That is a beautiful rifle, but hell give us a full monty shot of that masterpiece. Love the caliber choice too.

Classic rifle, all-around caliber. Well done!

Very nice, I too am a proud owner of a rifle stocked by Jim.

I am just not capable of doing a full shot with my photo equip or the expertise.
Butch

I'm curious about the floor plate over hanging the stock?

As am I..

Congrats Butch and Jim. A fine rifle indeed.

Terry

quote:

Originally posted by Chuck Nelson:
I'm curious about the floor plate over hanging the stock?

When my work is so good that this is the only thing one can pick at, I'm going to be one very happy hobbyist!

Yes, I noticed it too....but I also noticed a very beautiful rifle....one to be damn proud of!

quote:

Originally posted by Chuck Nelson:
I'm curious about the floor plate over hanging the stock?

Yes. Almost looks like he used a semi-inlet for a non-straddle floorplate.

Those pesky gaps around the skeleton grip cap insert can be largely avoided by first cutting the little knob of wood completely off the end of the pistol grip, before beginning the inletting. The separate piece of wood allows the stocker to work much more closely without having to pry the cap off the stock so frequently. The uneven pressure applied to the skeleton cap for its repeated removals from the stock during the fitting will almost always cause chips and gaps from the cocking and prying action, while using a separate piece allows the wooden insert to be pushed out of the skeleton with an even pressure from the top rather than prying from the side. Looks A LOT better.

I've noticed that lots of guys just fill in the gaps with epoxy or stock finish or shellac stick but IMO it's much better to not have any gaps in the first place. By using the piece cut from the new stock's grip, the stock's swirling grain flow will match as though the piece had never been cut off in the first place. The draft of the skeleton cap will hold the tightly-fitted insert in place just fine IF it's fitted closely enough, and the stocker can always glue the insert to the stock's grip if unsure of its retention by the cap's draft.
Regards, Joe

Those gaps in the grip cap got by me! I did not notice them when I put it together and shipped it out. They showed up better in the photo.

If Butch will ship it back, I will re-do it with a matching piece.

Jim

And it was not a semi inlet.

Funny what the camera shows that the eye doesn't see. I just looked at it again and can't see what I see in the photo. The wood was a blank from TC1.
Butch

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
Those gaps in the grip cap got by me! I did not notice them when I put it together and shipped it out. They showed up better in the photo.

If Butch will ship it back, I will re-do it with a matching piece.

Jim

Jim, I've discusseed this with David Christman among others, we cried on each other's shoulders and agreed that doing it as an integral protrusion was a real PITA and gaps/chips were always a problem. He seemed receptive to the idea of doing it as a separate piece but that was last year and I haven't talked to him about it since. If you know David (SUPER nice guy IMO) then it might be worth a phone call to get his opinion. I haven't done an integral one in more years than I can count, the results are, simply, better when done as a separate piece.
Regards, Joe

quote:

Originally posted by J.D.Steele:

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
Those gaps in the grip cap got by me! I did not notice them when I put it together and shipped it out. They showed up better in the photo.

If Butch will ship it back, I will re-do it with a matching piece.

Jim

Jim, I've discusseed this with David Christman among others, we cried on each other's shoulders and agreed that doing it as an integral protrusion was a real PITA and gaps/chips were always a problem. He seemed receptive to the idea of doing it as a separate piece but that was last year and I haven't talked to him about it since. If you know David (SUPER nice guy IMO) then it might be worth a phone call to get his opinion. I haven't done an integral one in more years than I can count, the results are, simply, better when done as a separate piece.
Regards, Joe

I have done it that way in the past .

Great looking rifle and great photos, as well.

Congratulations on your new addition.

sorry guys, but i prefer the floorplate to hang like that. i've had just a few to many hangups with detachable floorplates not to want to at least get a fingernail under it and pull it open

I wondered if it might have been intentional, as butch is saying he prefers, having a slight lip there to get onto.

I hate these real high end cameras for the reason that things that to our naked eye are great when seen through that lens sometimes are a bit beyond. I remember hearing that a lot of actresses/actors don't like the hi-def digital cameras some films are shot with because they show the tiniest of blemishes.

I gotta say, I don't care what the camera shows with Charlize Theron, I ain't kicking her out! by the same token, I notice things in pics of engraving for instance that look bad but I'm sure in person the guns are just as keepable (well, maybe not JUST AS) as Charlize.

Red

PS,
I love that blank! the light color with the figure through the wrist, I love that. And I always respect over the top checkering jobs more than separate panels. Congrats on a great looking gun.

Red

Real over-the-top and around-the-forearm designs like this one of Jim's are one of the marks of an expert. Unfortunately many checkerers use the imitation over-the-top designs and IMO it just ain't the same, at all!
Regards, Joe

Butch, thats a fine rifle...like the engraving and tasteful in every way!

Enjoy!

As a stock making hobbyist I am amazed at the shaping skills, checkering skills and finishing skills that a real craftsman shows. Kind of like a beautiful gemstone. If you have to magnify it to see any flaws it's a true gem. DW

I'm still curious about the floor plate/stock pairing.

Jim,

I've tried just a little checkering, and enough to know how difficult it is to do it right. Can I ask where you start your master lines on an "over the top" of the grip job? How do you keep the lines and angles from running away as the wood changes shape from the top to the underside?

Beautiful job!

Can't believe I haven't said "Sigh ... damn that's pretty!" already.

Congrats Butch!

Jim, you're bringing another rifle into the world worthy of being passed to later generations.

quote:

Originally posted by A7Dave:
Jim,

I've tried just a little checkering, and enough to know how difficult it is to do it right. Can I ask where you start your master lines on an "over the top" of the grip job? How do you keep the lines and angles from running away as the wood changes shape from the top to the underside?

Beautiful job!

I start at the top of the grip and lay out the master lines so they itersect at the center of the top. It is imperative that the lines are even and concentric on both sides. You are correct in assuming the lines will run away with the curves of the stock. You need to make sure they remain straight. Here is another hint I learned for a GREAT stockmaker: use a 3-1 diamond on the grip instead of the normal 3 1/2-1.

Starting the master lines on each side of the grip...very close to the rear border will guarantee an even pattern on both sides