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What is your preference for your custom bolt action rifle. Rust blue, gloss blue or satin blue or one of the matte finishes such as cerakote? I have some of each and am finding I like smoother finishes the best. You? Ray Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can. | ||
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Rust blue Jim | |||
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I like rust blue also. | |||
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The Parkerizing Remington used for a while on the Custom Shop rifles is toughest finish I've ever seen. Cerrokoat is a distant second. Harry McGowan did some gloss blue jobs for me about 15 years back. They still look really good, but require more care than the Parkerized finish. | |||
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Hot caustic blue, matte or semi gloss. _____________________ Steve Traxson | |||
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I'm looking for a hot blue that is neither textured matte finish nor bright blue, but instead a soft smooth blue. Unpolished wax on a bright blue is the closest I can describe what I'm looking for. Any ideas as to final polish grit or method? Thanks. | |||
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I prefer a matte blue. But that would depend on the actual finish that is applied. If I am going to have something rust blued, it will be gloss. If it is another finish, i.e. teflon, then it is matte. Larry "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading" -- Thomas Jefferson | |||
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I generally prefer rust blue on everything. However, I am having a M98 in .300 H&H finished that will have duracote finish on it that will look like it is rust blued. I'll post pictures soon, as it is close to being completed. The duracote (spelling?) is a waterproof and scratch proof finish. JP Sauer Drilling 12x12x9.3x72 David Murray Scottish Hammer 12 Bore Alex Henry 500/450 Double Rifle Steyr Classic Mannlicher Fullstock 6.5x55 Steyr Classic Mannlicher Fullstock .30-06 Walther PPQ H2 9mm Walther PPS M2 Cogswell & Harrison Hammer 12 Bore Damascus And Too Many More | |||
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Speaking of rust blued, is there a standard grit generally accepted for a rust blued rifle? I just looked at a Luxus Model 11 and although they said it was rust blued it looked like a bead blast matte hot blue. Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can. | |||
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I finish up at 320 now but I have gone to 400 a few times with good results either way. I rust it out until the sanding marks are gone. | |||
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While at CST we always polished one grit finer for a rust blue than for a salt blue. The thought was that all of the "carding" with the steel wool reduced the polish during the rust blue process. Most of the time a minimum of 400, but the nicest were started at a 600 polish. | |||
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Here is what I have done in the past and like the look. Polish to a bright 320 or 400 finish, then take four ot steel wool and load it up with a fine valve grinding compound and repolish. Sometimes a little oil keeps it from drying out and easier to apply. This will turn the bright silver polish to more gray polish. The trick is getting it on even. Hot caustic give a black finish not blue...but the gray finish tends to darken even deeper and retains not a blast look or a bright look. You will have to degrease the shit out of it, but when blueing its best to keep everything as clean as possible. Try it on a small part first, Its a look I like. _____________________ Steve Traxson | |||
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I've always preferred rust blue. However, a friend talked me into trying the Cera-Kote on my 404J. They use twice the hardener with the MIdnight Blue color, and it gives a very smooth matt finish. It looks very nice and fills great. The rifle is on a VZ-24 action. Rich | |||
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If not rust I prefer a bead blast hot blue. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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I've seen bead blasted finishes that vary widely in appearance. Some are just a soft satin finish while others are deep, almost sand blasted in texture. What was done to affect the difference? Grit? duration? I have a couple of each and prefer the soft, satin texture and hot blue. (I'm not sofisticated enough to have a rust blue yet although I think them beautiful) Zeke | |||
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I like rust blue on my wood stocked rifles and cerakote paint on my plastic stocked stuff. I like the looks of "hot blue" with a matte finish but it doesn't seem to hold up well for me. -------------------------------------------- Well, other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play? | |||
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I don't own any plastic stocks. But, I could probably accept a dull finish easier on one of those than a custom wood stocked rifle. Here's my first custom done from the ground up by various craftsman. I would like it better if it was smooth hot blued. Maybe I like the smooth feel better. Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can. | |||
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I generally like matt blue these days. AHR does a beautiful one that I really like. Cliff NRA Life Member CMP Distinguished Rifleman NRA Master, Short and Long Range | |||
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Usually grit and/or material used for the blasting. Pressure as well. What I have seen sand and higher pressure leans more to the dull gray. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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I like the appearence of a matt blue, but have found the small pits do hold moisture and definately tend to rust in humid, wet or cold weather, so you must constantly keep them oiled or waxed to prevent rust, even then I have had problems under severe weather conditions... The best blue available without a doubt is a true rust blue, it will last ions and is beautiful, not prone to rusting, glare is minimal and its pretty, however it is about double or more cost wise. I have a couple of old rust blue European guns that have been used to death and the rust blue is still near 100%. Other than rust blue, I think a blue such as on most factory rifles is best on a hunting rifle and that is probably about a 220 or 320 gr. polish??. No high gloss as it reflects light, its reasonable durable, and nice looking. I have seen some hot blue that is awesome, D'Arcy Echols uses a hot blue that is about as nice as any blue I have seen and he tells me it wears like a rust blue..Might check with him. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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You can experiment with 320, 400 and 500 grit silicon carbide paper used wet with something thin like WD-40, kerosene or light gun oil. I like 400 grit and it looks about like a 1950s Winchester or Remington.
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