Dunno if I am going to go this route, but I'd like some suggestions from you mauser gurus:

I'm going to build a 375 H&H on a mauser, I want the action to be manufactured in the 20's or 30's.

What actions do you recommend me to look for?

Right now I'm putting together a 20 tactical so I'm in no hurry, but would like to have an idea what to look for.

Thanks!

Mark

My suggestion at this point with "old" mauser actions, is to find one that someone has already converted from it's military configuration and not chop up one of the slowly diminishing "pile".

Workmanship wise, the Persian Mausers built by BRNO are just about the nicest Military Mauser action ever built.

Good luck!

I know where there is a 375 H&H in a barreled, magnum length Commercial FN action, the kind with the slot on the front ring, if your interested. You'll be money ahead if you go that route.

The only way that I know of to use a military Mauser( That's what forum we're in, military) to make into a .375 H&H Mag. is to start by installing a single shot follower.Most any of the large ring 98 type will do just fine.

bartsche,
I am planning on opening it up myself to accept the longer cartridge. What I was wondering from you guys who know the military models is what action to be on the lookout for. I am wanting something manufactured in the 20's-30's era. Prefer an action with a nicer finish so I don't have to surface grind everything, but date of manufacture is more important at this point.

I'm dumb as dirt about Siamese mausers, except I only seem to see them in 45-70 and maybe there is a reason for that, anyone know?

Thanks,

Mark

If set on a military mauser action, go down to your local big 5 sporting goods, and buy one of their 69$ vz 24's. but beware I considered a mauser sporter myself and found that even with the cheap stuff you would prolly be better off with buying a commercial manufactured gun, but if you are wanting to play around and do something yourself it might not be a bad idea, oh yeah if you find one of those persians mentioned above, those are way too nice to chop up.

Mark White,
I certainly respect a man's toys. If you are going to enjoy all that work more power to you.I suggested the follower approach because I have made a number of long wildcats that are made on Mausers using the single shot follower.
I think there are still some good looking VZ 24s floating around. I'd be interested to see some in process and final photos if you've a mind to share. Roger

What were the years of manufacture for the vz 24?

Thanks!

Mark

P.S. Roger that is a good idea about the follower, BTW.

The vz24 was made from about 1923 to about 1940.

Many don't consider opening a 98 action to H&H sized cases a wise conversion.

The safety issues are usually when too much is cut away in the front. If you remove metal from both the front and the back you can get the length without jeopardizing the lugs.

It is time consuming though.

Find an FN M1924 like the 7X57mm's the Venezuelan government used. They are excellent, as well-made of good steel and properly heat-treated as any Mauser ever made!

eldeguello,

The action you are talking about albeit a good one happens to be an intermediate length action. That would require so much metal removal that I doubt it could be used.

As Markwhite pointed out, the standard action may be ok to use as long as the metalsmith knows to open to the rear. I doubt that the intermediate action can accomodate the long H&H case.

This is not what you are asking about but have you considered using the WSM and opening it up to .375? I don't know the true case capacity of the 375 H&H vs the WSM but look at this:
"Just last year Winchester developed its own unbelted case--but made it short enough to fit into short bolt actions. The initial result, the .300 WSM, uses a 2.1-inch case with a slightly rebated rim of .535 inches, and a base diameter of .550 inches. With a 35-degree shoulder and a relatively short neck, the case has only slightly less capacity than belted magnums based on the .375 H&H case cut down to fit into .30-06-length actions (nominally, a case length of 2.5 inches). In practice, the greater burning efficiency of the short, fat case makes up for the slight difference in powder capacity; the .300 WSM equals the .300 Win. Mag. in performance while burning about seven percent less propellant."
Would this hold true for the 375 on the WSM case as opposed to the 375 H&H? Again, I don't know but it sure seems to make a lot of sense. I know that Saeed sets a great deal of store by his 375/404 so this may well be worht a go.
Best regards,

Trapper,

An interesting approach but my intent is to build a classic Rigby style rifle from the 20's-30's era. At first I was thinking about just chambering it in 416 Taylor (a lot less work for me!)but the more I thought about it the more sense it made to go the whole route and use the proper cartridge too. Other actions would also be easier to do, say a M70, but the fact is that virtually all the classic rifles werre built on mauser actions, so I guess I gotta do this one too that way or else when it is finished it will bug me whenever I look at it.

I am still curious about the Siamese mausers if anyone knows anything about them.

Thanks for the responses so far guys!

Mark

Most of the Saimese Mausers were designed for a rimmed cartridge. This is the one the American public clamors for since it used to be common to convert these to .45-70. I would stick with a standard 98 action. Besides, the standard 98 action would certainly be more in keeping with the classic notion you have.

Thanks Zach, It was something I always wondered about, now I know!

Mark