I recently bought a M-N that is an arsenal re-build. It is good shape for the shape it is in, but about one in ten rounds will not extract with normal manipulation of the bolt. I am shooting 147gr Yugoslav ammo if my memory serves. It requires significant pressure on the bolt to get it to un-lock, but it will un-lock and extract.

I don't let it get too hot. It is clean. The offending cases do not appear any different that any of the other cases. There is no indication of added pressure. I am perplexed. Any suggestions. Ku-dude

[ 09-18-2003, 04:29: Message edited by: Ku-dude ]

Didja get ALL the petrified cosmoline out of the bolt? I didn't on one of my M44 carbines and had the same problem. Sold the rifle to someone who fixed it and now it shoots (and extracts) wonderfully.

The Mosin Bolt is a great party trick to entertain your buddies next time they come over to share a few cold ones....... it is possible that either the bolt needs MORE cleaning a described above, or the chamber can sometimes be fouled with baked on lacquer from steel cased ammo. These are usally pretty bomb proof rifles once you get them "on their feed". You might also try another brand of ammo and see if the problem is replicated.

All of the above are good suggestions. I would like to add a trick that works 90% of the time. Purchase a spare firing pin spring and cut off about 4 coils of the spring, save the old spring for originality.

My dad has had similar problems. Cleaning the chamber helps, once the chamber starts to stick it will stick to either brass or steel. I'll have to tear down his bolt next weekend and check it out. The rougher the chamber the more of a problem.

the steel-cased stuff can be problematic, even the new manufactured stuff from russia. i've had 'em act like that in finns, poles and hungaians. something i've though about doing, but haven't yet, is to spin the steel-cased rounds in some 0000 steel wool, then cleaning with a soft rag before firing. i'd almost betcha this'll take care of most of the problem. may try it tomorrow.

except, that is, for the gray-colored hungarian ammo. lovely stuff.

Thanks to you all.

I cleaned the chamber by wrapping some steel wool around an old big bore brush and "reaming" it pretty good. I got a lot of gray looking material that matches the coating on the rounds I've been firing. Does it ever get better with sucessive cleanings?

Jiri-Pardner you English is just fine. It is your spelling that is off a bit, but that's OK by me. If you've ever read any of my post, I just guess at them!

Please tell me what kind of oil PTFE is. Do you put it on the round or in the chamber?

Thanks again. Ku-dude

Ku-dude,
PTFE is the "active ingredient" in CLP (military name) or Break Free (civilian name). It is available at any decent gun shop. I would though not suggest lubing ammo before shooting it, it can result in high pressures. Few weapons are designed to be shot with lubricated ammo, the rest are best shot dry.

I would try to avoid the laquered ammo if possible, if not you are just going to have to clean the chamber more aggressively. I use a .45 rifle brush on a dedicated short rod without a rotating handle. Since I tend to tiwst with the threads of the brush I need 2 pairs of pliers to get the worn brush off and replace it, but I only do that once a year.

Good Luck,
Bob

I have had similar problems with two of my three different MN models. The lacquer cases can and will stick in many MN rifles and carbines. Polishing the chamber with Flitz, etc., can help somewhat. Never had a problem with the regular ( non-lacquered ) Russian surplus.

This is a common problem with this gun from what I've read. Mine rarely does this. When it does it is because of bad cases. The 148 gr. surplus ammo I have clearly had bad quality contral. I bought 2 tins (880 cartridges). Only about 1/3 are good enough that I will shoot them. Even then I occasionally get a round that does not chamber (bolt won't close). These cases have no visible defects but the base of the case is too big (excessive diameter). Measuring all your cases may show you the same problem. I know others have had problem with their bolts. I have not. The chamber may be a problem too as mentioned by others One solution for this which I used on a Garand it to use a case which was fired in your gun to hone the chamber. I used epoxy to glue an allen head bolt into a deprimed case then used honing compound tho polish the chamber. Haven't had a case stick in that gun since.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Ku-dude:

Ku-dude:

I use "megaolej" from novato (industrial stuff), which is very light (like wd-40), but remain thin film of teflon. I am lubing cases, but trying not to lube bullets and primers. But better is greese, also industrial one for lubing ball bearings (I belive it is "Necco" or something like this name) silicon + PTFE greese (this greese is also super rust preventative for long time storage). With greese there is no risk to kill primer or to allow oil going into case . . . I belive best could be "dry lubricants", but haven't still any in fathers workshop :-) I aply very small amount of that greese on case, blur that with finger and patch it. looks like nonlubed, but there is small film and it is enought. When using oil, I aply it mostly before shooting, also patching it after oiling.

My mosin is Hungarian one and never had extraction problem with brass cased ammo. (military, new S&B and Lapua). This all is only for steel cased ammo.

Jiri