This is a fairly new product and the reviews are terrific. I have a half dozen older military rifles I refinished as winter projects. I've never been entirely satisfied with the blue performance I get. It's often streaky or blotchy. I looked at a film on their website and was impressed. At 29.00 a kit (from Sinclair) it isn't cheap so I'd like to get some opinions from shooters who have used it. Thanks and best wishes.

Cal - Montreal

I've done one rifle barrel with it (c. 1875 single shot) and was really impressed, I bought mine at a gun show a couple of years ago but can't remember the price. It was my first try at blueing and given my general lack of talent for things like that it was very easy to work with. If you didn't like the way it looked just wipe it down with cleaner and put another coat on. I used a hair dryer for the heat and although a little slow it worked great.

I tried it for a touch-up job on a 1100 receiver. Could of done a better job with a magic marker.
Save your money.

I've used it a couple of times. I was not impressed with the first attempt on an old Savage .22 barrel and receiver. The second was on a Hungarian 44 where I removed the bayonet lug. You can't tell it from the arsenal blue. The difference was that the metal was HOT! on the 44. Too hot to touch. I'm going to redo the Savage.
Good luck and God Bless,
Randall in Houston

Cal, I haven't tried that bluing product, but usually if you get streaks or blotches it is because of oil not cleaned off the metal. All the oil has to be removed, and it helps if the metal is warm to hot.
Birchwood Casey cold blue works well, and Oxpho Blue has a gel that is a lot easier to use- no runs. The Birchwood Casey has 2 formulas for different levels and color of bluing.
If you do try this new stuff post how it does.
Jim

I have usualy had pretty good luck with various "cold blues" over the years as far as color, and I always tried to use some sort of heat source. Hot water is one of the "tricks" I have used, rinsing in very hot tap water and applying the "cold blue" while the metal was still hot, sometimes so hot that it had to be handled with potholders.

The problem I have always had has not been the quality of the finish as much as durability.

Is the "blue" finish acheived with this product supposed to be more durable?

If you think you may be doing more than one or two reblues a year there is an alternative to cold blue.
Build a rust blue box. It's cheap and leaves a very durable, very pretty blue finish. I blows cold blue away.
I traded for a Swede M38 that had a new stock. The other guy asked if I wanted the metal refinished. He rust blued it, and it looks like a new rifle. It takes more time than cold blue, which is more or less instant, nut it is a much better finish.
If you want more info I'll dig up a link to an article on it.
On our C&R Forum we have thrashed a lot of subjects on refinishing metal, stocks, etc. on these old rifles. The only better blue treatment than rust blue is hot bluing, which is expensive.
Later,
Jim