Duh, I just got it and I'd like to know how to remove the stock? In fact, how can I remove all of the wood? And, one last thing, how do I put the front sight shield back on?
Incidently, for those of you that might be considering buying one, I got the "collectors grade" from Mitchell's and am quite pleased with it.
Thx in advance
John

Just undo the trigger guard screws, and it lifts out.

I have no idea on how to replace the sight hood.

First make sure all of the bands are off! It is easier for me to remove the barrelled action with the handguard in place. Then remove the small screw in front of the rear sight base, pop the handguard retainer clips off of the barrel (you'll see them when you get the BA out of the stock), hold the rear sight ladder as far up as you can, and rotate the now-free handguard 90 degrees so it will slip over the rear sight slides.

Nifty little rifles. Mine did not like 154 gr Turk ammo, but shoots pretty well with heavier stuff like the S&B commercial ammo. I have heard the same thing from others. Buy a sling and bayonet, and a cleaning kit, while they are still around.

Todd

Do those bands just drift off with no retaining pins or such?

You can put the hood back on by using a pair of long needle nose pliers. Put the pliers INSIDE the hood and spread the handles apart, spreading the hood apart at the bottom. Then just slip it over the base and push the bottom of the hood into their slots in the base. It is a lot easier to put on than take off IMO.

Well, I cleaned about 4 gallons of preservative off of and out of the M48A and cobbled up some ammo: new RP brass, 46grs H4895, 175gr Sierra flat based bullets. (I bought the bullets at an estate sale and they are soooo old they don't say matchking or gameking or any sort on the boxes) Anyway, I fired 10 rounds at 100 yards using the 100 yard setting (lowest one) on the yardage leaf. Long story short, I am of the bi-focal set and its been a long, long time since I've shot anything that didn't have a scope on it. All 10 shots clustered around a 2" bull and had I been shooting at a deer, it would have been one dead deer. Group size? Perhaps 6" or less.
I still can't get the damn front sight shroud back on. I tried the needle nose trick but I can't seem to get it to work.

So how does she look bee???
been looking at these myself - any pictures before and after cleanup?

Hello John, glad to hear you got it apart. Problem with the yugo's is just about the time you think you got all the grease out of it you go out and get the barrel warmed up from shooting and it all comes back. Front site hood is a b---- to get back on. I use the flat blade of a screwdriver to wedge the narrow slot open far enough to start it on the grooves and then whack it with a small hammer to seat it, usually takes me about 4 - 5 tries and 6 - 10 cuss words before I finally get it on. Your group size is about normal for those itty-bitty sights so sounds like it's a good shooter. Another powder to try is IMR4064, works pretty good...Gary D.

Looks wise, it was advertised as "un issued, as new" and I've got to say that's what it is. No dings nor gouges. Actually, clean up was pretty straight forward with the outside already pretty clean. I sprayed the bolt and reciever down with brake cleaner and used a bit of Kroil here and there. I cleaned the bore and fired it for the results posted above. Then I learned how to take the stock off and the fun began. Much cosmoline (or whatever) but brake cleaner and elbow grease did a pretty good job. I took the bolt apart and it was really gunked up with perservative also.
This is my first venture into military rifles other than looking at various Upper Slovoian rifles at gun shops that retail for about $60.00 and wouldn't make good tomato stakes. So I am pretty well pleased. I have no plans to change or customize this rifle but can see where it could be the foundation for a fancy do-over.
One thing I hate to admit, this is the M48A which means that some manufacturing corners were being cut. BUT, considering that this was intended to be a working weapon of war meant for rough usage, the workmanship is superior to what I see in our modern rifles.
Sorry, I don't have photo capability.

Hello all, I must say that I have come upon a site that is really full of good info! I picked
up one of the M48A Mausers for a first time gun smithing project a couple years ago and while
cleaning and taking the rifle apart especially the bolt I noticed that the number was 653 I looked at the receiver and the same number, the stock also had the same number! After further inspection I found that the barrel was full of gunk, after 5 cans of carburetor cleaner and countless patches this ol� rifle looks and shoots real good. What are the chances that the 653 is the serial number for this rifle? I did buy another M48A and built a 308 with a Parker Hale barrel I got from Sarco, all in all I think I might have $400 in the rifle less scope and will it shoot! I was really surprised, enough that I think for this year I will make 2 more in the 260 Rem (6.5-08) one for me and the other for my little brother.
Hey ShootinOK what part of our great state are you in? if your close enough we might
have to meet up. Fellas if the M48A�s you are looking at shoot as good as the one I have get em�
I paid $100 for one and $120 for the other. A little work and these things are great fun plus
accurate! I have a 2 5/8" 10 shot group from 100 yards off bags with surplus ammo (Must have
had a bad day ) think what these thing will do with the 180gr Nosler BT�s I loaded up.

Later,
Kirk S.

Broken Arrow - OK
Thanks for askin' Ksmirk

Lotsa Okies. You guys ever heard of beautiful, downtown Inola, Ok??? Hay capital of the world?

Inola is cool --- one flashing light at the 4 way stop. (Not a real big town)

ShootinOk, trust me, its bigger than Frametown.
I lived near there for 15 years. Not a bad town to raise a kid in. Good schools. Lotsa country kids with manners (what the hell is that) and good work ethics. Something that is sorely lacking among kids in wild and wonderful West Virginia. But then, the same is true of the parents.

For front hood removal and replacement use a pair of snap ring pliers. Makes it a piece of cake. The thing I like about the Yugos is that from what I have seen they can be had in much better condition than some of the other Mausers around. Mine was $100.00 and rated VG. I think of them as something like a used car with low miles.. I dont care for the sloppy bolts and otherwise worn out parts in some rifles.

As noted above, the snap ring pliers are the way to go with the sight hoods. They are available at SEARS if your local auto supply emporium does not have them.

The M48 can be an accurate rifle, mine however does not like the Turk ammo, which tends to be "hot" anyway. It may be that the difference in throat dimensions and possibly rifeling may cause high pressure with this ammo (bolt very hard to lift!). Optimal function and accuracy in mine was achieved with either handloads (150 gr Sierra match) or the S&B FMJ commercial ammo.

Good luck!

 Good to see so many people that live/have lived here in Oklahoma, makes one think the world
ain�t so big after all, can�t say I�ve ever been to Inola or Frametown but I have spent some time in Fargo, Ok most of my time was around Prague, Ok and ShootingOK I was just in Checotah this
weekend visiting my parents! My wife and mother spent the weekend shopping in Tulsa. You
guys have a good day, I have to go get a bit to eat.

Later,
Kirk S.

TomF, the Turk stuff is loaded HOT!!!!

Have you tried the Romanian 153gr. stuff?

DaMan