well folks...I think I have "lucked into" a sporterized german mauser that I have an inclination to "re-sporterize" with an up-grade on the stock it wears, BUT I have no experience with this-MY FIRST "PROJECT"! So, what can you tell me about the german mauser, and what would you suggest as far as re-sporting her? Is this a worthwhile project, or should I take off the old weaver K4 scope and re-sell her? I believe german mausers were 8mm, right? I have seen 8mm ammo from remington and have heard 8mm is like a 30 06, so I guess I could hunt most anything with it.

I should have the gun in hand in the next week or so and can post picts...

Dave

First, take her to the range and see how she shoots. If the rifle will do 2" or less at 100, it's better than average and well worth keeping, as is.

The 8mm doesn't have much "adult" reloading info available, but, properly loaded, the 8mm is only a bit behind the '06.

If it shoots well, and you want a little more "poop", it is quite cheap to get the chamber reamed out to 8mm-06, or 8mm-06 Ackley Improved. Both are fine big game cartridges... or leave it like it is for a little less recoil.

If the bolt handle has already been changed, and it has a low scope safety, and if it doesn't shoot well, it's a good candidate for a new barrel. You can rebarrel for 30-06, 270, or any similar cartridge.

There are numerous sources for new stocks. Try Midway, or Midsouth, or one of the others.

Before you start, add up the cost of a barrel ($150-350), a stock ($75-150), and any inletting and bedding you'll need done. It is often cheaper to just buy a new gun, even with the good fortune you've had.

OTH, you could just send it to me, and I will prevent you from having to worry about such matters.....

First off,try to check the year of manufacture. A lot of the Mausers made in 44 and 45 were a mite dodgy in their tolerances and parts compatability. I have a 1938 and my BR rifle is based on an FN of 1939 vintage and the parts are totally intechangeable, Not so with the later ones(sometimes).
On the subject of rebarreling, the bolt face is so close to the 30/06 and 308's it isnt funny. Any of the cartridges with that rim diameter and from 30/06(which is a trifle long) and shorter will work just dandy. Also I used a Timney Sportsman trigger on mine and like it very much. derf

I agree with the above posts. Whether a military Mauser is worth the cost of improvement depends in some degree upon when it was made, and by whom. The letters on the receiver ring are a code that identifies the maker. Some of the better-made ones are the Oberndorf (opf course!!), the Walther, the Steyr, and a couple of others.

If it is a WWII military Mauser, it is made to use the "S" size (.323" diameter) bullets, and can be used with ammo that is well beyond the power of the U.S. factory stuff. The U.S.-made ammo is loaded light on purpose due to the great number of 8X57mm rifles of various vintages, strengths, and bore sizes out there.

The 8X57mm is an excellent round, with probably as much money spent by the German government in designing and perfecting it as went into the .30/'06 in the U.S.

To get maximum performance out of it, you must handload it, or buy European full-power ammo like the Norma stuff that is imported into the U.S. from Sweden.

Good luck!!

OK, the mauser is in hand and it looks about like you might expect-there is minor rust developing over the barrel and receiver, blue is fading a bit etc...
the weaver scope have some surface rust as well, but the optics look great.

The # 9721 is stamped over most of the separate parts and the letters HDfb are stamped ont he reciever under the front of the scope.
There is also the # 37 stamped under what I guess are the waffenamps??
The trigger guard looks to be the worst as far as rust goes, but the bore looks to be in fine shape and the stock has a few very minor dings and scratches, nothing worth fretting over. The recoil pad was rotting off, so a new pad will be on there shortly.

OK, any one out there able to tell me a little more info about this gun-who made it, when etc...
I'd be guessing, but I bet the 37 may be the date of manufacture---1937?

Thanks in advance.

Dave

Dave,
I would start by using a coarse rag with something like Kroil and give it a thorough scrubbing. Inside and out. Use a bore brush and scrub like crazy. JB's bore paste would be in order also to clean it up nicely. Carberateor cleaner is great for cleaning out bolts and in the action areas. The Kroil will really cut the rust. it may even take some use of 0000 steel wool and Kroil to remove all the rust. As long as there is no pitting you are OK. Pitting can be removed it it isnt too deep using emory cloth. Be carefule to not round corners over. I wrap it around files to keep it flat so I dont round anything over.

Even a really beat up stock may have some beauty hidden underneath. Give it a good cleaning before deciding to junk it. It may be hiding a nice piece of wood and even a tortured stock can often be brought back to life with patience.

i would definately get a bore dimension and preferably a chamber cast before you shoot it. Some of the early mausers had a bore of .318 compared to the .323 found most often. There is also a chance it could be a 6.5x55, 7x57, 7.65 or a few others. i have even found the old step contoured military barrels chambered in 308 and 30/06.

Without seeing the proofmarks it is hard to tell what make or year it is. If you could post some pics it would help.

I have a K98 Mauser that I acquired in the sporterized condition. It is a fine looking rifle and I'm getting groups right at 1" at 100 yds. It is a fine hunting rifle and I like it very much. It likes the heavier weight bullets (180 grain and 200 grain). It didn't like the 150 grain bullets.



I understand that US commercial ammo are pretty light loads, good loads are available if you buy European loads. The US loads are loaded very light because there are older 8mm Mausers that have a .318 bore rather than the .323 bore. Shooting .323 loads in the .318 can be very dangerous so the US ammo makers load the 8MM Mauser loads very light.



Hand loading is the way to go for the 8mm mauser.