I bought a really nice 1908 Mauser yesterday, ALL numbers match, no rust or pitting (not even below the wood line), very good bore and even the wood looks good except for a funky red varnish someone put on it..... after I get the varnish off what is the best (correct) finish to use? Thanks,CSJ.

Is it a Brazilian Issue?

Burke,
Yes, it is a Brazilian 7X57. CSJ

sweet.all matching.to bad someone dumped the varnish on it.My 1908 is the favorite of my milsurps.Accurate and easy on the shoulder.

There is a post on the Military Mauser forum herewww.gunboards.com that talks about duplicating original Mauser finishes. The guy (Vulch) came up with a light french polish as the hands-down winner, and described how he did it.

Be sure you don't sand the stock -- hopefully the person who refinished it didn't either -- the Brazilians usually have some interesting cartouches stamped in the stock. I would recommend Formby's finish remover, that comes in a spray can, and LIGHT use of fine steel wool to get it off.

Good luck,
Todd

[ 10-20-2003, 15:36: Message edited by: Todd Getzen ]

Burke,
I ordered brass and dies from Midway yesterday...can't wait to see how it shoots!
Todd,
Thanks for the link and stripping advice....I picked up some Formby's Refinisher tonight, but all I could find was in a pint can....it supposed to dissolve the varnish without stripping. CSJ

CSJ
I have a Brazillian Mauser as well, also with matching numbers. I picked it up for $150.
Below are some pics
I removed some varnish from my Mauser-Verguerio. I followed my gunsmiths advice and scraped it off with the back of an old hacksaw blade that I sharpened. It turned out great and I found some good wood underneith.

Bakes

Thanks Bakes,
Nice pictures! I picked up some of Formby's refinishing pads today, which looks like a Scotch-brite pad glued to a small sponge..... don't think it will do much.... the varnish is really thick, kinda looks like they put it on with a toothbrush...may give the hacksaw blades a try. CSJ

The original Mauser finish was to immerse the stock in boiling linseed oil. Since that is not practical, several coats of boiled linseed oil followed by a good 0000 steel wool rub after it sets should work fine and give you an authentic, period finish. Rub it in by hand and rub hard to generate some heat.

The Formby remover is a good choice to cut the varnish off. Make sure you also remove any oil from the stock or the linseed oil will not dry. Brownells sells a product called "Whiting" which I have used many times to remove oil from these military stocks. Just follow the directions on the tub. When you finish, give it a good wash with mineral spirits.

I agree that no sandpaper should be used. Steel wool will do nicely to smooth it. I believe the Germans used scrapers. You can steam out mild dents with an iron and a wet cloth.

Bobster,
Thanks for the reply. The Formby's did a really good job of getting the varnish off.... I'm very pleased with how good the wood looks! I cleaned it with mineral spirts to get all the Formby's off, may have to get some of the whiting.... wood has kinda of a greasey feel to it. CSJ

If it feels greasy it probably is. One sure test is to hold the stock next to a space heater for a few seconds and observe if the oil bubbles out of the wood. In fact, that is the method I use with the whiting to remove the oil. I paint the whiting on, let it dry, then hold the wood in front of a heater until the whiting discolors with the absorbed oil. I do it till it won't soak up any more. Then I take a toothbrush and mineral spirits and scrub down the stock real good to get as much of the whiting as I can out of the pores. If you leave a little don't worry, because it will turn dark when you rub on the oil. Start at the butt and do about a foot at a time. You will find there is oil in places you didn't suspect. Lastly, I would recommend you make yourself a drying cabinet to hurry up the finishing process(I think KY is about as humid as SC). I made a cheap one out of an old cardboard moving wardrobe from U-HAUL. I hung the stock with a piece of coathanger on the inside and placed a "Cube" Heater in the bottom thru a flap I cut. Set the thermostat on Med-Lo and it will keep your stock warm and dry. Should cut drying time in half.

Bobster,
Thanks for the how to on the whiting! Just got through ordering a three # tub of Brownells Whiting..... three # don't cost much more than one #, and got me some of their double boiled, double filtered, bottled by the Pope linseed oil...quart didn't cost much more than a gallon at Lowe's.
Don"t know where you got the idea it's humid in KY.... Hardly ever gets more than 99%. CSJ