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Howdy Guys, I am going to be picking up a Springfield M1 Garand from a guy at work. He says that it is all orignial, where can I look on the net to check ser#, proof marks, value ect? Any info will be very helpful. Thanks Bill | ||
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All original is very hard to check unless you have a PHD in Garands. Most Garands went through rebuild at least once since they saw active service from about 1939 until the late 60's. The vast majority of rifles that exist today are arsenal rebuilds cobbled together from parts from several makers. The major things I would look for are the manufacturer codes on the barrel, bolt, op-rod and trigger housing. If its a Springfield Armory then they all would have SA stamped on them near the drawing numbers or heat treat code stamps. H&R wsould generally be HR (but not always). International Harvester would be stamped IHC and Winchester's are mostly stamped WRA. But the manufacturer code is only about half the battle as there were several variations and improved designs of parts made by the same manufacturers and one version may be correct for say a 1.5 million serial number but isn't correct on say a 3.2 million serial number. Make sure the date on the barrel is correct for the date of production for a particular serial number receiver. Also the feed ramp cuts on the breech of the barrel inside the receiver should be bright metal. If they are parkerized the gun has been through a rebuild and its doubtful its original. The Stock is usually a dead giveaway. The stock should have some cartouche stampings with the inspectors initials correct for the date range of manufacture. Also perhaps an ordnance stamp and a circle P on the pistol grip. Stock dimensions changed over the course of production in very subtle ways as changes to relief cuts and other milling processes were changed. This is not an easy thing to discern for someone who doesn't know what to look for. Even the collectors get fooled from time to time. Scott Duff's Books are a good reference. Also JC Harrison produces a very comprehensive parts and serial number reference book for Garands which shows all the subtle differences in parts for a given maker within a date range. I think he gets about $35 for that. Finally, the M1 Garand collector page on Jouster.com is very good in terms of collecting and asking questions. If your friend has collector grade papers from CMP for his rifle its a good bet you'd be OK...otherwise buyer beware. | |||
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I don't know all that much about old Garands but in my experience with older military rifles I have found the phrase "all original parts" to be a red flag. Normally that term is used to justify an unrealistic price being asked by the seller. The terminology is far too subjective to have much meaning unless both parties (buyer and seller) agree on what it actually means to them. I have seven Springfield 1903's, two Enfield 1917's, and two Springfield 1898 US Krag's. All of the metal parts on these are "original" armory parts...but they were not "originally" on the weapons on which they now reside. That makes absolutely no difference to me because I am a shooter not a collector. If you are a shooter and not a collector all that really matters is that the rifle operates properly and that the price is justified by the condition of the weapon. Rick | |||
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The forum on CMP's web site is very informative... www.odcmp.com If you just want a shooter, satisfy their requirements, pay the price for the rifle you want, and Fedex will have it at your front door... | |||
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Quote: Bill, Most importantly, you didn't say for how much. A $300 garand is almost always a deal, even if you have to replace the barrel, but an $700 garand is a horse of a different color. Get serial number, manufacturer, barrel date (pull back op rod and look on side of barrel) disassemble and look for manufactiuring marks on each major part. Trigger group, op rod, barrel, etc. Marks should be SA, WRA, IHC, or HRA. get the drawing numbers from each part as well. That dates the part which can be matched to the manufacturer date. Alos remove the gas cylinder and front handguard and examine the barrel for import marks like "Blue Sky" or some such. Get all that and come back here or post it on Jouster and you'll get all the info you need. | |||
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Thanks to everyone!! Here are some numbers that may help. Action...U.S Rifle, CAL 30M1, Springfiels Armory, 6117** Trigger....D28290 BMB Bolt..... D28237-12SA Barrel....LMR D6568448 6 53 A No import marks under hand gaurds or on barrel Walnut stock, no markings sling....CC1942 I purchased the rifle for 375.00 from a guy that I work with. It shoots very well. In the 3 and 4, closer to three. It would prob do better with someone else behind the action...LOL Thanks Again Bill | |||
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What you have is commonly referred to as a "mixmaster", but if it shoots good, $375 was a BARGAIN. I also belive that it may be what is referred to as a "Danish". That is a returned lend-lease rifle from Denmark. They are often found with italian parts. The receiver was made during the war while the barrel was made in june of 1953. I can't find my bood to exactly date your receiver. The same rifle is $500 from the CMP, a little less for a greek or danish. The trigger marking of BMB is a Beretta made part. Winchester sold the tooling to make garands to Italy sometime after the war. Italiam made parts can be found marked PB or BMB. The LMR barrel is highly desirable and is supposed to be one of the best barrels ever made for the garand. Good luck and enjoy! Should you decide to part with it $500 is a more realistic price. You need to take your friend to lunch, and I probably wouldn't tell him. | |||
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Agree with the above post. Probably a Danish rifle. It depends on the bore wear in terms of price. I bought a CMP service grade Danish M1 Garand for $425. (they have sold out of service grades) Rack Grades which have more bore wear go for $295. So ya did OK. Your rifle is 1st year of M1 production for Springfield Armory. Most likely you have a european replacement stock. Go shoot it and don't look back. | |||
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