Here's what I found from http://permits.fws.gov/faqs/FaqB.shtml

Q: Do I need a permit to import into the United States a black bear that I harvested as a trophy in Canada? The American black bear (Ursus americanus) is listed in CITES Appendix II.

� To import a hunting trophy from Canada, contact the applicable provincial or territorial office to meet its requirements.
� We recognize the CITES personal effects exemption. Residents of the United States or Canada do not need a CITES permit to import black bear trophies in a fresh, frozen, or salted condition if the personal sport-hunted trophy is part of the hunter�s accompanying baggage and is for personal use.
� If the trophy is being shipped or mailed by a taxidermist or someone else, it must be accompanied by a CITES permit (see Canadian offices above). If your taxidermist brings your trophy over the border for you, he or she must obtain an import/export license.
� A black bear trophy lawfully taken by a U.S. resident in Canada and imported for non-commercial purposes, may be imported at any Customs port of entry. You must delcare your trophy using our declaration form, and file the form with U.S. Customs if a FWS wildlife inspector is not available.
� Check with the State to meet its requirements.

The form turns out to be form USFWS form number 3-177.

I will check on the Canadian side regulations.
Thanks,

Well, I have decided to drive up and back.

Good news is I can take my Lab. Bad news is it's 5000 miles of driving towing a light trailer with a freezer!

Now the next question: Is there any hassle driving across the various Canadian provinces with game meat/trophies from BC?

I've never driven across Canada so I'd rather di that than the plains states in the US again.

Thanks,

Don Ive driven all over Canada with firearms and meat, never had a problem. This fall when I go to Alberta Im going to have my meat prossed and frozen because there may be a problem in some of the mid-west states transporting wild game that isn't boned out because of the mad cow scare they had up north. Ive had more problems with the U.S. agents. Another thing Im doing different this year is Im installing a 1200 watt inverter in my truck to run my deep frezze I always took my generator but it was a pain but did work very well. Good luck Bill

Very cool, Don.

You shouldn't have any trouble crossing the provinces. If anyone asks you just have to show them copies of your licences, tags, etc.

Cheers,
Canuck

No problems going from province to province Don. If you would like a couple of suggestions about routes to take (I've driven across Ohio and back to Alberta more then a few times), just PM me. - Dan

Bill, thanks for the info.

Canuck, I think there's some inspection/registration form I have to get (especially on a black bear?) before I leave BC, since the other provinces want to be sure I didn't poach it locally. I think any manned facility can do that for me. I'm checking into the details.

Dan, I'm PMing you for the route info. I'll be taking my time in travelling, so I want nice places to camp (maybe fish?)


Thanks all! (This IS a great site!)

Don,

Black bear or wolf will require a CITES permit and most likely take awhile. For anything else, just inquire as to the need for an export permit from that province or territory, some use them, some don't. ~Arctic~

Arctic,



I found out a few months ago that last year a US citizen could personally import his own (BC-taken) black bear trophy/meat at the BC border crossings into the US with only a US declaration form and the Canadian licenses/tags/outfitter declaration.



I seem to remember that this only worked at the BC border crossings, and that you needed a CITES permit if you went through US customs at any of the other ports-of-entry. I am trying to verify that this is true this year.



Thanks!

Just in case anyone ever does a search on this subject:



[Geek mode on]



I tried a Tripplite PV1000HF that had a 1000 Watt steady state and a 1500 Watt surge rating, it would only start my Sears 23 cubic foot chest type freezer every 3rd time, but would run it fine if it started successfully



I then got a Tripplite PV1000FC inverter with 1000 Watts steady state and 2000 WATT surge. It starts the freezer just fine.



I would suggest that anyone looking for an inverter for motorized equipment should get the older-style commutating inverters.



Basically if the inverter has a transformer that weighs more than 20 lbs per kilowatt, then it will start heavy motors a lot better. The newer designs weigh about 5 lbs/kW. Bill has one and it starts his smaller freezer just fine. The heavier designs are also better filtered and will maintain 60 Hz very accurately even when driving a motor. The lightweight designs will tend to change output frequency with the inductive load of a motor. The better filtering means less problems if you are running audio or video equipment.



I used a deep-cycle battery close to the inverter to supply the startup surges, and ran the 10 gauge charging wire through a 50 Amp breaker to the truck battery. So far it has not tripped!



The inverter draws about 170 amps (mostly) from the deep cycle battery when starting the freezer motor, and about 25 amps steady state which the 70 amp alternator in my Tacoma keeps up with just fine.



The PV1000FC fits in a standard battery box just fine. I drilled a series of one inch holes in the raised floor of a battery box and mounted the inverter in there. The cable exits let the rising hot air out of the box. I figure it's water proof for anything but a monsoon, just sitting in the back of the truck. I did not hook up the remote switch, so I have to raise the lid of the battery box to turn on the inverter. The PV1000FC has a jack for a remote switch that I would use in a permanent installation.



[Geek mode off/]

Interesting and helpful info on the inverters. Also, with the "locker" that I was using, it was critical to keep the tire circumferances the same. If one of my rear tires dropped 3 pounds it became noticeable as the locker kicked in and out on the slightest of turns and sometimes even when driving straight. The other locker you may want to look at is the "Air Locker". derf

derf,



If you want a true locker, then the ARB air locker or Toyota electrical locker (obviously for Toys only) make a lot of sense.



I find that I do a lot more rain, snow and ice driving on the pavement than rock-crawling. On snow and ice both lockers and clutch-driven systems like Posi-Traction can do more harm than good.



I have been watching the Torsen differentials with envy for years, now they are available for a lot of American iron under the name Detroit TrueTrac. www.tractech.com They say they'll have one for the Tacoma in a few months.



This differential is very good in poor traction situations like snow, ice and mud, but is not the best when you get a wheel completely off the ground. Even then a tap on the brakes will get you moving. The main benefit of the TrueTrac is that it gives you better traction without the slightest hint of problems on the street. It also does not have any clutches to wear out. It simply lets you "go better" !



I figure Canucks know more about snow and ice than I do. Anybody up there use the Truetrac?



Taking off for BC tomorrow afternoon - I'm rarin' to go!

They are a pretty good locking device Don, the only pronlem with them that I'm aware of is the requirement for regular oil changes, to clean out the metal left behind from the gear wear. On Snow and ice, as mentioned, I would rather have an air locker, electric locker, or cable activated locker (Ox-yoke, I think?), simply because you can turn them off on the road. I prefer the cable version, because I've sheared lines and ripped wires off roading, cables are stronger. When it comes to strength, the original Detroit locker was/is one of the best (there is an updated version), as is a welded spool (or better yet a solid one, welds will break), they aren't really road friendly tho'. So I guess, as a Canuck jeeper gearhead, I'd have to recommend one of the ones you can turn off. A locker clicking in and out on an icy road makes for a very exciting ride down the mountain. FWIW - Dan

I used to have a "No-Spin" in my TR4 race car. That made for some hairy cornering at times.
Since I don't like computers in my vehicles and I like to keep things as simple as possible in my Trucks, a cable controled diff locker is probably as complicated as I will ever get. And as to haveing problems with a locking diff under various driving conditions, I am a pro driver and have operated vehicles from a Honda 50 to Cement Trucks and Road Graders(on wheels) and from snow mobiles to a Sherman Tank & various crawlers(on tracks). Problems driving , not so's I've noticed! derf