I have never loaded for an auto pistol before. I load my own ammo for my rifles and for my Ruger 45 Colt but have not loaded for an auto pistol. I am rather anal about my rifle loads and pretty particular about my 45 Colt loads too. My 300 Win Mag big game rifle has a custom barrel installed by a top gunsmith who trued up the action. It shoots the Barnes 180 TSX into 3" groups at 500 yards. My Ruger Bisley also had some custom gunsmithing done to it and it shoots a 345 grain hard cast WLNGC bullet into 2" groups at 50 yards at 1160 fps.

Not having loaded for or shot an auto pistol before I do not know what to expect in terms of accuracy. I know many folks figure if they can hit a pie plate at 25 yards with their handgun then all is well but I sure hope me and my newly aquired Browning Hi-Power will be able to do better than that. I hope to come up with an accurate, reliable man stopping load for it. I sure would appreciate some recommendations on loading for an auto pistol compared to what I am used to- anything in particular to look out for or that I need to do differently? Also I would appreciate some suggestions on bullets and powders for this application. I bought some primers this evening, Winchester small pistol standard primer. Hopefully they will work just fine for my needs.

I do not want to beat this gun up by shooting loads that are too hot for it but I also do not want to unnecessarily load it wimpily. I here of +P loads and +P+ loads. The reloading manuals I have seen only have standard loads. Is it safe to shoot the hotter loads in the Browning Hi-Power or should I just stick with the standard loads? What pressure level is standard ammo loaded to versus the +P versus the +P+?

Do any cast lead bullets work well in these guns for practice or for defense? I think I will probably want a jacketed hollow point for defense but just do not know that much about it.

When loading for accuracy how would I go about it in an auto pistol? Any tips on that for me? Thanks, Bruin

I have went thru a lot of 9mms but the one I keep is a old adj sight Browning Hi Power....for good accuracy and reliable fuction in most auto loaders, I prefer to trim the brass once to get a square mouth....load to mag length restrictions and use a taper crimp die....don't over expand the case mouth to seat the bullets.....for defense use I don't use handloads UNLESS good ammo isn't available in that caliber....in 9mm the Federal HydraShock 124 works well....the hot version prefered over the short bbl load....shoot the gun with a few hundred jacketed shells before trying HARD lead...I now use plated lead for pratice loads.....5.7Unique with 124pfp plated lead with Win or Fed reg primers....prints slightly higher than Federal HydraShock...I stick to my Sig 45 for most serious use but kept up with 9mm for those that prefered it for duty use...good luck and good shooting-loading!

The BHP is one of my fav. 9mm, classic. It will take all of the 9mm ammo currently made, +p & +P+. For pure accuracy, the 124gr Hornady XTP or HAP are hard to beat, but a bit pricey. Berry's & Ranier are good, but likley not give top accuracy, they are crimp sensitive. They should also be loaded using lead bullet data, not jacketed. Lead bullets are also an option.
There are many good powders for the 9mm. My best load is 5.5gr of Unique under a 124grXTP. It will make 5shot 1" groups all day @ 15yds from my Barsto bbl. BHP & 1 1/2" from my Glock. WSF is another good choice. Either will allow you just below std. vel. to +p loads w/ good results. For lighter target type loads, WST is very clean & super accurate. Eith good ammo, your BHP should break 3" or better groups @ 25yds.
Loading for a semiauto is really no diff than your 45colt except you taper crimp instead of roll crimp. You also have a min. pressure level for semiautos for reliable functioning. I find most starting loads listed in manuals do NOT give reliable functioning so I would start w/ a load in the middle range & work up.
Oh, if you decide to go w/ lead bullets (ww alloy works fine), you'll want med. hard cast bullets that are at least .356" in diameter. I have better accuracy w/ 124gr truncated cone over the round nose, longer bearing surface seems to give better accuracy.

i usually find cast bullets in 9mm give me a lot of leading, hence for a cheaper load I use berrys plated bullets. one of the most helpful things i can think of in loading for an auto pistol is the taper crimp. it eliminates a lot of hangups

quote:

Originally posted by Bruin:
I think I will probably want a jacketed hollow point for defense but just do not know that much about it.
When loading for accuracy how would I go about it in an auto pistol? Any tips on that for me?

For what it's worth--the NRA does not recommend using reloads of any kind for self defense. Not because they work worse than factory ammo, but because of the potential legal aspects encountered in defending you actions from shooting another human being.

I would also suggest using Berry's plated bullets for practice in the same weight as your carry ammo.

You bought a military service pistol not a target pistol. It has built in sloppiness to make sure it fires in the heat of battle no matter what dirt and grime it has on or in the action. If you get a 4" group at 25 yards, you're doing good. Don't expect gilt edge accuracy.

That ladder rear sight marked to 500 meters on some HP models is a joke.