I've been reading the questions and answers that have been posted by and for new DR owners. It might be valuable to pass along tips that have worked for me. My rifles:

450/400 3" Jefferys 55 grain Cordite regulation

450#2 Yale

- Shooting doubles is not the same as shooting bolt action scope rifles. When shooting a BA, I use a sandbags and a rest in the manner of benchrest shooters. Not so with the doubles. I stand up. I put the stool on the table and a sandbag on the stool. I wear a shooting glove on my lead hand, grasp the barrels and rest my hand on the bag. I find that method produces tight groups and reduces recoil punishment by a remarkable amount.

If you shoot your double by sitting, resting the barrels on a bag, you will very likely get erratic groupings, and a very sore shoulder. My experience.

-Loads. Once you find the combo that regulates, you're done. Don't over think it. Velocity will change groups, so a few grains up or down make a difference. So will different bullet weights and profiles. In a new gun, shoot what the gun was regulated with.

-Powders. Nitro Express cases are large. Fillers are useful. Pay attention to older English guns that are regulated for "Tropical Loads" such as my Jeffery. Cordite was touchy in the heat, and the 55 grain load was used instead of the 60 grain load. Obviously, shooting 60 grain Cordite loads in a 55 grain gun makes for bad regulation.

I use 58 grains of IMR 3031 with 2 grains of poly filler and 400 grain Woodleighs. Works great. Some will scream that IMR 3031 is too fast. I got the load from George Douglas who dealt in DR's, and used it for 40 years in that cartridge.

I use 110 grains of H4831 with 2 grains of poly filler in the .450 #2 and 500 grain Hornadays. That big case requires a slow powder to fill up only about 70% of the case. Poly is needed.

Reloader 15 is advocated by many, as is 4350. They are all good by me.

Extractors are less of a headache than are ejectors. I have one of each. Ejectors sling expensive brass out into the veldt making a treasure hunt out of finding them. Dirt and grime can disable them. Ejectors are frequently a problem in expensive shotguns too, so keep that in mind (reference to other thread).

-Scopes. No! No! Would you put a mustache on the Mona Lisa? Doubles are for close up work. Get inside 50 yards to do your work.

- Recoil reducers. MRR will alter the balance of your rifle. My Yale has one to balance it out. The weight of a DR should be centered between your hands as you hold it to keep it lively. The balance should be 2" or so in front of the hinge.

-Just like automobiles (reference to other thread) doubles need a little maintenance now and then. Boxlocks are not easy for the average guy to get into to clean and lube. Firing pins don't rebound anymore, and stocks get cracks. Most pieces are hand fitted.

I hope some can use this info, and others will add what works for them.

Great "primer" Jeff, thanks! I especially liked the "don't overthink" part as I am very apt to do that!

Well put.

Like jorge, I also thought the "Loads. Once you find the combo that regulates, you're done. Don't over think it" was excellent.

I would add to the line "now go hunt something with it"

.

Great post. I also regulate my .505 Gibbs using the stool-on-bench standing method. Then practice field positions off sticks.