who would you recommend for re regulating a double. I want a 12 ga sxs to use for hogs and need it re regulated any help would be appreciated

argolee504

Shoot it first; I once had a 12 ga Savage that I sold to a friend who cut the barrels off to 20 inches and put sights on it. It would shoot slugs on top of each other at 50 yards; we couldn't believe it.

Like dpcd stated I would shoot it first with several different slug loads and see how it performs.

Hello
If it is a smoothbore it will not have a regulation wedge.
Smoothbore shotguns are not built the same as rifles.
Shoot it and see where you are at.
Then decide if it is worth the sizeable investment to move the barrels. I say move the barrels and not regulate as you really cannot apply that term here.
Nitro

If you "regulate" it, or move the barrels as you say, would you not install a wedge at that time and treat it as if it were a rifle? (Some shotgun barrels touch at the muzzles, so would not be able to be brought together if that were needed.) The process would be the same, (myself having built and regulated several double rifles) No? Regulate means get both barrels to shoot where you want them to. Rifled or not. To me that is.

dpcd

There is no mid or muzzle wedge.
And as you say some already touch at the muzzle.
So uncrossing and moving up or down are your limits.
Some call grinding muzzles "regulation" I guess it is your preferance.

Nitro

These guys have given you very good advice. You will have to pull the ribs and make up the spacers for the barrels, regulate it for your chosen load, and the reinstall the ribs. Since you are going to have to go to all that trouble anyway, I would suggest that you install one of my machined top ribs on it instead of the shotgun rib and put a set of sights on it. These ribs work just as well on double shotguns as they do on double rifles.
I don't know what you intend to hunt with it but if you want real double rifle accuracy you might also consider doing an monoblock set up and put in a pair of rifled tubes for best accuracy. As my old grandad used to say," In for a penny, in for a pound." In other words, if you are going to go to all the trouble to do this, you might just as well go the extra mile and do it right. Good Luck with your project and let me know if I can be of any help to you. Bob H.

It's not that complicated. Most shotguns need to have the muzzles spread about 25 thou to regulate with slugs. You don't need to "remove the ribs". Just shoot it, make a calculation of how much you need to spread the muzzles (use half the barrel length for the math), and then make a little wedge about that thick to go between the muzzles , and tin it. Clean all the oil and grease off the barrels esp along the ribs. Put the lumps in a padded vise with the barrels supported somewhere near the muzzles. Clamp the ribs with some kind of arrangement to keep them firmly pressed against the barrels at three or four spots, top and bottom. Clamp the muzzles together with a C clamp or similar and scribe a horizontal line across the muzzles to give you a point of reference in case you need some vertical realignment. Heat the barrels and ribs with a propane or map gas torch (never oxy acetylene) from about the forend hook to the muzzles til the solder starts to sweat. Relax the C clamp a tad and the muzzles will move apart. Insert the wedge and check the vertical alignment (this can be adjusted with a large crescent wrench applied to the barrels). You may need to add a dab of solder at the muzzles. Let the whole thing cool. Fire it and repeat if necessary. File the wedge flush. If you do it right, it should clean up and there will be no need to reblue anything.

Or you can send it to Ken Owen, he has done dozens of these. You may want to get some sights fitted while you are at it. We have some neat folding leaf sights (ERA) that can be dovetailed into the rib and will lay flat when not in use, like those found on drillings.

This is what I use.