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Holland and Holland Question
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Can any tell from the serial number of a double rifle when it was made?

H&H 32150

I can get the shop in London or New York to do the digging but I was wondering if anyone has the quick answer on this number.

THanks,

Mike
 
Posts: 13145 | Location: Cocoa Beach, Florida | Registered: 22 July 2010Reply With Quote
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B682E, I have 1929. New York has always given me the info immediately when I call. You may give them a ring and find the rest of the day book entry.
 
Posts: 2747 | Registered: 10 March 2006Reply With Quote
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Mike, are you sure that's not the price? :-)
 
Posts: 20140 | Location: Very NW NJ up in the Mountains | Registered: 14 June 2009Reply With Quote
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The Holland Book puts that # as between 1928-1941 or 1948-1949.
 
Posts: 1311 | Location: Texas | Registered: 29 August 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by 470Evans:
The Holland Book puts that # as between 1928-1941 or 1948-1949.


Thanks you - just the info I need.

I guess it is a 1928-1941 gun.

It a well used pretty worn out H&H double in 375 - not sure whether it is flanged regular or 2.5.

Mike
 
Posts: 13145 | Location: Cocoa Beach, Florida | Registered: 22 July 2010Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Dutch44:
B682E, I have 1929. New York has always given me the info immediately when I call. You may give them a ring and find the rest of the day book entry.


Thanks for the info. I think you may have nailed it on the head.

Ar is so awesome on its depth of knowledge.

Mike
 
Posts: 13145 | Location: Cocoa Beach, Florida | Registered: 22 July 2010Reply With Quote
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Does anyone know a good gunsmith who does work on Holland and Holland doubles ?

The barrels seem pretty used.

The gun seems pretty used.

The fore end does not appear to be an original.

Would a full restoration outside of H&H significantly dimmish value ?

Thanks,

Mike
 
Posts: 13145 | Location: Cocoa Beach, Florida | Registered: 22 July 2010Reply With Quote
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Depends on what needs doing. Work by H&H can get very expensive very quickly. And may well exceed significantly the price differential between this rifle and a near mint older rifle.

Cartridge should be stamped on the barrel flats.

Good luck.

Chris


DRSS
 
Posts: 1930 | Location: Australia | Registered: 25 December 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Beretta682E:
quote:
Originally posted by 470Evans:
The Holland Book puts that # as between 1928-1941 or 1948-1949.


Thanks you - just the info I need.

I guess it is a 1928-1941 gun.

It a well used pretty worn out H&H double in 375 - not sure whether it is flanged regular or 2.5.

Mike


Mike,

What do the proof marks say? I'd be surprised that late of a gun would be a 2.5 but never say never.
 
Posts: 1311 | Location: Texas | Registered: 29 August 2006Reply With Quote
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Mike, JJ or Aaron Little do spectacular work at a fair price. I have work with both of them now and have used both several times and have been very happy.

H&H may, and I say probably would, outsource some of the restoration work and charge you full price. I know some of the out-source workers there that do some of their work. Obviously it would probably maintain the status quo with price. It's a cost benefit analysis thing, I guess.
 
Posts: 2747 | Registered: 10 March 2006Reply With Quote
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Mike,
I agree with 470 Evans, but the 2.5 may also say EXP, ie express which the 2.5" was called.
JJ has done excellent work for me.
If I were home I would mail you a couple of empty cases to try!! You will probably figure it out before I come home...I have an old Vancouver bull to chase before I do!!
Good Luck...I assume you know the Fl.Mag. is worth about double what a 2.5 is??!!
Cheers


470EDDY
 
Posts: 2600 | Location: The Other Washington | Registered: 24 March 2003Reply With Quote
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The rifle is a 375 H&H flanged.

The gun cannot be inspected by a competent gunsmith - a village idiot on double rifles - me - would have to decide the quality of the rifle.

The gun cannot be fired to check function, regulation, barrels etc.

The gun has been used hard and is beat up.

There has been some modifications to the gun - a cheap rubber pad has been added.

It's tough to buy something like that.

Mike
 
Posts: 13145 | Location: Cocoa Beach, Florida | Registered: 22 July 2010Reply With Quote
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Take the fore-end off, hold the gun horizontally but upside down (i.e. so that the barrels would break up instead of down ), pull the lever hard over and give the gun a gentle shake.

Any movement of the barrels relative to the watertable means walk away.

Don't let the barrel drop on the floor! Big Grin
 
Posts: 11731 | Location: London, UK | Registered: 02 September 2007Reply With Quote
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Mike,
Be careful as the 2.5 is a flanged or rimmed case too. The proof marks on Bbl flats should say Fl.MAG if it truly is. Cordite loading is also telling...I don't have my Fleming books at hand to look it up...someone reading this will probably chime in?? Generally the bullet wt is 300 gr. for Fl.Mag vs 270 for 2.5. That will be stamped as well.

Well, it is an H&H, it is not uncommon for owners NOT to allow test firing,especially finning doubles.

All of that affects purchase price. If it is a pig in a poke...pay accordingly. Leave good toom for proper restoration! !

GOOD LUCK! !

CHEERS,


470EDDY
 
Posts: 2600 | Location: The Other Washington | Registered: 24 March 2003Reply With Quote
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in my opinion , stay away !!! If the barrels are shot out, the cost to rebarrel will kill it.

The 375 are very tricky to regulate. Had a mate buy a dolled up WR in the same calibre.

It looked the part but one barrel was so shot out it wouldn't put the bullet on a target at 50yds!!!!

Cost of the rebarrel from WR was in the order of $15,000 US

ITS JUST NOT WORTH THE GRIEF MATE!!

Cheers

Nick
 
Posts: 665 | Location: EU | Registered: 05 September 2010Reply With Quote
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Listen to Nick, Mike. Run and run fast from this one.
 
Posts: 2747 | Registered: 10 March 2006Reply With Quote
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It all comes down to price really. Guns can be put back on face pretty easily and affordably. It takes a lot to wear out rifling by shooting, mostly it will be rust and pitting that cause the problems.

If you can get it cheaply it may well shoot and become a usable gun. If it doesn’t, then it could form the basis of a rebuilt gun. Barrels can be sleeved, expensive, but less expensive than a new side by side. They can also be bored to 410 shotgun, or bored and then sleeved with smaller bore.
 
Posts: 984 | Location: Scotland | Registered: 28 February 2011Reply With Quote
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Why would you even contemplate turning a 375 flanged H&H into a 410 shotgun??????????
The weight and balance would be an abomination!!!!!!!!!!!
Tearing up $$$$$$ for a gun that would have absolutely no end value........


Nick
 
Posts: 665 | Location: EU | Registered: 05 September 2010Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by nickh:
Why would you even contemplate turning a 375 flanged H&H into a 410 shotgun??????????
The weight and balance would be an abomination!!!!!!!!!!!
Tearing up $$$$$$ for a gun that would have absolutely no end value........


Nick


Plenty of double rifles were turned into 410 shotguns. For a double rifle whose rifling is worn out or barrels pitted that is no longer useful as a rifle boring out the barrels to turn it into a 410 was a quite common. Also at the end of the empire many of these old doubles were brought back to the UK. Lack of suitable game, suitable ammo and strict firearms legislation meant many double and single barrelled rifles were converted - choice of that or having them cut up.

Surprisingly some do balance and handle pretty well. No they are not 4 1/2lb true 410 shotguns, but with a bit of weight they are often easier to shoot.

I am not saying convert a perfectly usable 375 flanged H&H - there is a certain place reserved in hell for that - but it is one option if the barrels are already damaged beyond usability.
 
Posts: 984 | Location: Scotland | Registered: 28 February 2011Reply With Quote
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I don't know if the barrels are damaged or not.

I will not be able to test fire the gun to see function.

I will not be able to have the gun inspected by a gunsmith.

It will be a wild guess at best on my part if the gun is operational or the barrels are okay.

Plus I have to see if the jurisdiction allows export of the gun.

All in all a tough spot.

Mike
 
Posts: 13145 | Location: Cocoa Beach, Florida | Registered: 22 July 2010Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Beretta682E:
I don't know if the barrels are damaged or not.

I will not be able to test fire the gun to see function.

I will not be able to have the gun inspected by a gunsmith.

It will be a wild guess at best on my part if the gun is operational or the barrels are okay.

Plus I have to see if the jurisdiction allows export of the gun.

All in all a tough spot.

Mike


Sounds like a lot of obstacles...


www.heymusa.com


HSC Booth # 306
SCI Booth # 3947
 
Posts: 4025 | Registered: 28 May 2004Reply With Quote
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Can you inspect the rifle?

Get up to speed with some of the expert advice here and try some snap caps or, at worst, fired cases in it.

Does it have quick removable sideplates, if a Royal it should do? Can inspect the lockwork. With the proper turnscrews you can if non-quick detachable.

A thorough inspection by you would go a long way to determining its worth to you.

A few years ago I bid on a H&H Royal at Holts, which had H&H peep sight, ejector 500/465, fortunately was inspected by someone from H&H and even though by the photos it looked a bit shabby and had stock cracks, i was told it was a good buy. Unfortunately it went about GBP8,000 over expectations!

Best wishes with your quest.

Cheers, Chris


DRSS
 
Posts: 1930 | Location: Australia | Registered: 25 December 2006Reply With Quote
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