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Proper Double Lubricatioin
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I've been shooting my Chapuis for a couple years now. I keep hearing my old Uncle talking inside my head. He says, "Boy don't go squirtin' oil everywhere in that gun." So, I'm a little cautious. I've never seen anything on the correct way to lubicate these rifles.
Where are the correct lubing points on a double, and what are the proper lubes to use.
Thanks
Bfly


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Posts: 1195 | Location: Lake Nice, VA | Registered: 15 March 2005Reply With Quote
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Over lubrication is common with guns.With doubles especially side lock and especially when stored muzzle up ,oil drips down into the wood and rots it out.Proper lube is most important on double shotguns that are used often in things like sporting clays.Hinge pins and lock see high stresses and there is a tendency to wipe off the lube .There are special greases made for this such as RIG +P.The rest of the gun should be cleaned and lightly lubed with a good gun oil.Spray lubes usually put too much in the gun [and in your lungs !] Occassionally remove the side locks or stock to inspect the insides .Lube critical parts with a syringe. Old lube and powder residue can be removed with cotton swabs .
 
Posts: 7636 | Registered: 10 October 2002Reply With Quote
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IIRC, if you do a search here for the best lubes and the proper places/amounts you will find much.

Personelly, I found RIG grease to run too much, especially in Africa in the heat. I needed to keep it in the fridge to keep it grease and not light oil. After searching for the best grease, I came upon a high pressure, high temp grease made or offered by Glock. Keeps its consistency in cold and hot temps, stays put.

IMO, migrating and/or dirty grease is the cause of most if not all rifles coming off face, same with shotguns too.

Grease out to be removed after every shooting session and replaced prior to the next shooting session.

I use a tooth pick to place grease, you do not need much. If I must smear it around to get coverage, I use the toothpick and then as clean Qtip. I lube hinge pin and bolt contact surfaces as well as ejector comtact surfaces along with a very, very light coat on the nose of the action which pivots against the forearm metal.

Qtips are also great for removing grease, along with a little alcohol.

A good, light temp resistant oil is best for sidelock parts. You do not want them gumming up.

For wiping a gun down, I'm happy with spray lubricant, but I spray it on a clean rag and not on the gun. A Qtip is also good for removing built up gunk and seeds, etc, from the V between the 1/4 rib or front sight rib and the barrels. If you haven't used a Qtip in this area, you will most likely find some rust, which will show up on the Qtip. Use an oily but clean Qtip to remove this rust, changing the Qtip frequently - rust is an abrasive so remove a bit and change Qtips so you do not wear your bluing by pushing along rust particles.

Hope this helps.

BTW, some long shooting sessions may require a break for re-greasing the hinge pin.

JPK


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Posts: 4900 | Location: Chevy Chase, Md. | Registered: 16 November 2004Reply With Quote
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What Mete said above.
I store all my double rifles muzzle down in the gun safe. What you don't want is an oil soaked stock. Use a good high pressure grease like Militec or others on hing pins and pressure points. And don't just keep adding grease. Wipe away the old put on new. This helps cut down on collecting dirt and setting up an abrasive action.

Keep the bore clean and I always put a little gun oil on a rag and just wipe down the outside metal.


Rusty
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Posts: 9797 | Location: Missouri City, Texas | Registered: 21 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Thanks. My concern was always to prevent oil soaking, while keeping wear to a bear minimum. Never thought about Glock grease.
Bfly


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Posts: 1195 | Location: Lake Nice, VA | Registered: 15 March 2005Reply With Quote
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I place a chair cup under the muzzles of my guns. I wet the the barrels with break free for storage. The cup collects what ever runs out of the barrel.

Dave
 
Posts: 2086 | Location: Seattle Washington, USA | Registered: 19 January 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Black Fly:
I've been shooting my Chapuis for a couple years now. I keep hearing my old Uncle talking inside my head. He says, "Boy don't go squirtin' oil everywhere in that gun." So, I'm a little cautious. I've never seen anything on the correct way to lubicate these rifles.
Where are the correct lubing points on a double, and what are the proper lubes to use.
Thanks
Bfly


Black Fly, the chapuis double rifles have a weard under lug, and is not exactly like any other double rifle I've ever come in contact with. I think the guy you need to talk to is NE 450 No2 (TONY) he has used the chapuis double more than anyone I can think of, And while down at the ranch on one our DRSS get togethers, he was schooling several new Chapuis owners on the proper procedure for greasing the Chapuis double rifle. It seems there are a lot of tiny nooks, and cranies that need different amounts of lube on those rifles!

On a classic double less is pleanty, and a high tention (impact) high temprature grease, like MilTec-1 is fine for these double rifles. first as others have said wipe the old lub off the rifle before attempting to apply new grease. A tiny bit on the hook, and henge pin, the sides of the lumps where they rub against the bar on each side, and a tiny dab on top of the under locks then work the opening lever to spread the grease on the area. If you have ejectors then use your snapp caps and only pull one trigger, open the rifle and only one ejector will be in it's ejected position, place a tiny amount of the grease on the inside of the ejector shaft, the flat side where it mates with the other ejector shaft. Now replace the snapp cap, and pull the other trigger, this will put the other ejector in the extended position, do the same to the shaft of the ejector. If you have extractors then simply put a tiny abount of grease on all sides of the extractor shaft. The ejectors, and extractors both should be removed every once in a while to clean, and re-lub outside the barrel set! This area is notorious for collecting gunk, and wearing the shafts!

As others have said the outside of the rifle's steel should be wiped down with a clean slightly oily rag before storage, and stored muzzle down!


....Mac >>>===(x)===> MacD37, ...and DUGABOY1
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Posts: 14634 | Location: TEXAS | Registered: 08 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Mac,
Thanks, I think I'll PM 450 No. 2.
Bfly


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Posts: 1195 | Location: Lake Nice, VA | Registered: 15 March 2005Reply With Quote
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PM Answered.

I recommended Tetra Gun grease or Shooters Choice Grease.

[Any good gun grease will work, but these two work great].


IF I got caught out without any grease, then I would use any lubricant I had/could find, what ever, including the "grease" on the side of my nose. Big Grin


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Posts: 16134 | Location: Texas | Registered: 06 April 2002Reply With Quote
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Mac,

To lube the ejectors, one must only push on the end of the rod, while the rifle is disasembled (or shotgun for that matter,) on one side to make one side extend, no need to "fire" one barrel with a snap cap or to then disasemble the rifle.

While I like Tetera, If find it runs in the heat and is too light to stay put.

JPK


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Posts: 4900 | Location: Chevy Chase, Md. | Registered: 16 November 2004Reply With Quote
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JPK

Tetra is a light runny grease, however, In one application that I have used it in, it has proved "slicker" than any other grease I have tried, and I have tried a lot of them.

It seems to be pretty good stuff.

It is kinda like Brylcream [sp] a little dab will do ya.

It does smell kinda of funky however. Eeker


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Posts: 16134 | Location: Texas | Registered: 06 April 2002Reply With Quote
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I use LSA on most of my guns and have seen good results every time. It is a little runny but it seems to always leave some in place.


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Posts: 1265 | Location: Bridgeport, Tx | Registered: 20 May 2005Reply With Quote
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