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Solder vs Brazing barrels
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Picture of LionHunter
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So please explain the differences. Benefits vs problems? Thanks

I understand the early Sabatti's were soldered and about mid-way through the Cabela's production run they switched to brazing. I wonder if the switch coordinated with the grinding of the muzzles?


Mike
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Posts: 3577 | Location: Silicon Valley | Registered: 19 November 2008Reply With Quote
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Picture of Aaron Little
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I've regulated my fair share of soldered and brazed Sabatti rifles. I've never come across one that had ground muzzles and brazing.

I personally don't believe in using braze to hold ribs down on double rifles. Yes its strong and you will never have a rib pop loose, but brazing will not allow you to make adjustments after barrel assembly. Alas Sabatti has taken note and gotten enough experience to be able to set the barrel separation and get acceptable(their definition) regulation on the majority of guns. I've only re-regulated a few of the new Sabatti rifles for the US importer.

When re-regulating a brazed gun I pull the ribs, file off the brazing material, and relay the ribs with solder. I have yet to be able to reuse the factory bottom rib due to having to damage it upon removal, only the top ribs have been salvageable. It takes immense heat and about 30min to pull the ribs. My shop will get up to 87 degrees plus with the AC on. Lovely work!


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Posts: 1023 | Location: Mineola, TX | Registered: 15 October 2010Reply With Quote
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Yes , that makes the most sense.
SOLDER melts as high as 450 F and BRAZE melts for about 900-1300 F.Big difference .At the higher tempsof braze there is some risk in doing heat damage to some parts .
 
Posts: 7636 | Registered: 10 October 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of Bill73
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quote:
Originally posted by Aaron Little:
I've regulated my fair share of soldered and brazed Sabatti rifles. I've never come across one that had ground muzzles and brazing.

I personally don't believe in using braze to hold ribs down on double rifles. Yes its strong and you will never have a rib pop loose, but brazing will not allow you to make adjustments after barrel assembly. Alas Sabatti has taken note and gotten enough experience to be able to set the barrel separation and get acceptable(their definition) regulation on the majority of guns. I've only re-regulated a few of the new Sabatti rifles for the US importer.

When re-regulating a brazed gun I pull the ribs, file off the brazing material, and relay the ribs with solder. I have yet to be able to reuse the factory bottom rib due to having to damage it upon removal, only the top ribs have been salvageable. It takes immense heat and about 30min to pull the ribs. My shop will get up to 87 degrees plus with the AC on. Lovely work!


Aaron,
were these the newer batch of guns that are advertised now? what is the acceptable regulation for them out of the factory?


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Posts: 2277 | Location: MI | Registered: 20 March 2007Reply With Quote
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3" at 50meters


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Posts: 1023 | Location: Mineola, TX | Registered: 15 October 2010Reply With Quote
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The less heat on a barrel or action the happier I am..I'll go with solder everytime..As to strength some solders such as silver solder are tougher than braze, but Im not going to used silver solder on double rifle barrels..


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
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Posts: 41979 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Picture of drhall762
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quote:
Originally posted by Atkinson:
The less heat on a barrel or action the happier I am..I'll go with solder everytime..As to strength some solders such as silver solder are tougher than braze, but Im not going to used silver solder on double rifle barrels..


I know all solder is not created equally. Out of curiosity, what particular alloy do you use/recommend?


Dave

In 100 years who of us will care?
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Posts: 899 | Location: Ammon, NC | Registered: 31 December 2013Reply With Quote
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Ray has his terms confused.SOLDER melts below 500 F.
Braze 900-1300 F. It is Braze and should be called that - NOT called Hard Solder.
I have seen many a problem with definitions and name and not just in the gun business .
Yes braze is stronger and used in some guns .For example the Browning High Power pistol was made with a two part barrel ,brazed together !!

If you want it bright use silver solder .It stays bright..You can also use it on your wife's stainless steel posts , it's also food safe!!
If you don't want shiney use the old standard lead/tin solder .Forget the new green safe for the world stuff !!

The 62Sn/37Pb solder is the 'eutectic' solder melts and freezes quickly. Away from that mix and you get a mushy stage before it melts or freezes.Such as a 60/40. I don't know what the typical Gunsmith uses .
 
Posts: 7636 | Registered: 10 October 2002Reply With Quote
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I never braze barrels together; it is too hard to work with them afterwards. Brazing uses brass, or silver, instead of tin, lead, and silver alloy for soldering. Brazing takes place at up to 1800 F for silver. There is no advantage to it.
I use Brownells force 44, which is tin and silver and melts at below 500F. And is very strong.
Now, if you are attaching a shoe lump, them, yes, you want to use brazing there, for strength.
 
Posts: 17181 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Best gap for strength and capillary flow, for both solder and braze is .003" Wink
 
Posts: 7636 | Registered: 10 October 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by mete:
Best gap for strength and capillary flow, for both solder and braze is .003" Wink


I know of a gunsmith who used to build doubles and aimed for .001" clearance when he brazed his shoelumps.
Aaron do you mind if I ask what clearance you shoot for when you are machining for soldering your monoblock barrels?
 
Posts: 193 | Location: Oz | Registered: 22 July 2011Reply With Quote
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Dave,
I use 440 as a rule, if I want silver solder then I get Jack Belk to do that. I steer clear of Braze because Ive not actually done it myself. Im limited to soldering on sights for instance.


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 41979 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Picture of drhall762
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quote:
Originally posted by Atkinson:
Dave,
I use 440 as a rule, if I want silver solder then I get Jack Belk to do that. I steer clear of Braze because Ive not actually done it myself. Im limited to soldering on sights for instance.


Thanks. I'm going to PM you.


Dave

In 100 years who of us will care?
An armed society is a polite society!
Just because they say you are paranoid doesn't mean they are not out to get you.
 
Posts: 899 | Location: Ammon, NC | Registered: 31 December 2013Reply With Quote
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