I have not shot my 500 NE since October. This has largely been due to my hand surgery.

I cleaned the gun before I left Zim & again upon my return home. I picked it up today. I am going to the range. When I opened the gun, I noted the metal on the ends of the chamber areas has rusted.

Obviously, I am going to clean it. How do I prevent this in the future?

Heavy oil that will not run off or grease. I do this as I put my rifles away for 7 months each winter. Never had a problem.
Cal

You must also remove firing residue which might contain acids from the breech face of the frame as the barrels will always contact that surface. And use rust preventative oil on it.

Larry, I'm a bit confused. "Ends of the chamber" being muzzle end or breech end? The throat? After proper cleaning, I always run a lightly oiled patch through the bores.

There is a popular perception lately - perpetrated by green berets and SEALs (allegedly) - that you don't need to clean your rifles. Big mistake IMO. It isn't necessary to scrub the barrel to bare metal, but some preventive measures should always be taken.

When I am shooting a rifle weekly, at a minimum the bore gets a dry patch followed by a wet patch with BreakFree CLP or similar. I will also use a toothbrush on the bolt face and a wet patch to wipe down the bolt. Finally, I wipe down the exterior with CLP, a Silicon cloth or my current favorite, Tuf-Cloth by Sentry Solutions. Prior to shooting the next session I run a dry patch through the bore to remove any excess CLP. I follow a similar procedure with my DR and handguns.

If you ignore it, even a SS firearm will develop surface rust in just a few months time.

May I suggest that you clean with a solvent such as Hoppes #9 and lubricate and protect all metal surfaces with a product called Tetra Gun Oil. Do this every time that you shoot your double. Tetra is the very finest protective gun oil I've ever used.

Do this at the very minimum and you'll save yourself some heartache. I thoroughly enjoy cleaning my rifles especially my double. It give me some extra "cuddle" time with my beloved rifle.

quote:

Originally posted by LionHunter:
There is a popular perception lately - perpetrated by green berets and SEALs (allegedly) - that you don't need to clean your rifles.

I find that very hard to believe.

A dirty weapon that jams or requires and IA
can not only cost you your life but also your mates.

Operating in sea water buggers guns up quick smart if not maintained.

It is likely that both lots would have some
pretty schmick water repellent stuff but that
doesn't stop it all.

Larry, I've had the same thing happen on both of my VC rifles. Doesn't seem to matter if I coat them with oil prior to storage or not. It always cleans off, but I hate to see it develop. I've started storing mine in the original case, inside the canvas sleeves, taken apart so that the two non blued metal surfaces don't touch each other. That sees to have solved the problem.

What LionHunter said as to cleaning it. Larry, you live in a humid environment in Florida and so checking your firearms regularly is most important. I live where it's bone dry most of the year, but I thoroughly clean them after shooting and put each firearm in its own silicone treated gun sock that is made to draw away moisture from the gun. I also keep a box of dessicant in my safes and check their status often. I have been told to never store them in a soft gun case as that will make the metal sweat. They do make products that will help you remove the rust, but after you do so keep the metal well oiled. Good luck with the gun and the hand.

Never use Hoppes #9 on a double rifle. It damages too many fine working parts. There are so many better and safer products for removing barrel build-up than Hoppes.

I have found Clennzoil to be the safest and most versatile gun oil as it can be used for the bores, action, on wood and plastic, and does not leave a build-up. Try it, you'll love it.

When you clean your double, coat the end of the chambers and the breach face of the action with either BreakFree, or RIG.

OK, I think I get it now. The "ends" of the chamber to which you refer, is where the barrels kiss the face. If so, lightly lube the breech of the barrels and face of the action and store the gun disassembled.

The anecdote of weapons not needing to be cleaned is a relic of the early Vietnam era with the introduction of the M16; wasn't valid, but was thought correct for a short time, then and isn't now. Certainly is not current doctrine within any of the US services; weapons cleaning is very much emphasized. I use Break Free CLP for everything. Except for black powder, on which only water (or water based cleaners) will do. Also, never store rifles in fabric cases, and most importantly, monitor the humidity of your storage area. Dehumidify if necessary.

quote:

Originally posted by DoubleDon:
OK, I think I get it now. The "ends" of the chamber to which you refer, is where the barrels kiss the face. If so, lightly lube the breech of the barrels and face of the action and store the gun disassembled.

Correct DD.

The good news is that the gun shot really well, I was breaking clay pigeons at 50 yards.

I hate that f'ing rust.

quote:

Originally posted by Todd Williams:
I've started storing mine in the original case, inside the canvas sleeves, taken apart so that the two non blued metal surfaces don't touch each other. That sees to have solved the problem.

Agreed. After noticing some rust on one of my doubles that was put together I started taking them apart before putting them in the safe and never seen any more rust.

LionHunter is on the right track with the Tuff Cloth from Sentry Solutions. May I also suggest that if you live in a very humid area or near the ocean try their Marine Tuff Cloth which is a heavier solution.

505G & dpcd-

You guys need to read the "Green Berets have final word on copper fouling!" thread on the "Gun Cleaning Forum" here on AR. Pure BS IMO, but some folks are actually buying into this theory. It is not just the old RVN story either; this is from the current sandbox affairs.

One thing I need to add. All my firearms go into BoreStor bags after cleaning and before they go into the safes. Been doing so with my U.S. military collection for over 19 years and never a problem; some of these guns are well over 100 years old. Now my DR and hunting guns also go into them. They also protect from safe dings as well as rust.

I'll go and have a read.

Lion Hunter

Cleaning your rifles and cleaner out copper are two different things.

Anyway, one discussion I'll stay out of ATM.

quote:

Originally posted by mdstewart:
Never use Hoppes #9 on a double rifle. It damages too many fine working parts. There are so many better and safer products for removing barrel build-up than Hoppes.

Please give us an example of what working parts Hoppes damages on a double rifle vs any other rifle?

quote:

Originally posted by surestrike:

quote:

Originally posted by mdstewart:
Never use Hoppes #9 on a double rifle. It damages too many fine working parts. There are so many better and safer products for removing barrel build-up than Hoppes.

Please give us an example of what working parts Hoppes damages on a double rifle vs any other rifle?

I missed that.


MD
I only use Hoppe's on the bores to get Powder fouling out and no where else. Have done for 10 years, no problems yet.

Would be interested in your answer to the above
question by surestrike.

Larry, where are you storing the rifle?

In my experience if you have a walk in safe, or a small room with your safes in a dehumidifier is miney well spent. If that's not practical I've drilled holed in the top of a safe and fitted a computer fan before that extracted air. The air movement seemed to help and I lived close to the coast at the time.

If you have problems oil helps but is seldom enough. I've used the "Wonder Lube" that guys lube patches with for muzzle loaders and Rig grease. Some sort of more permanent product to keep the air off the metal seemed preferable to oil.

I have a retired army hunting buddy who spends a lot of time at Fort Benning with the marksman experts. They feel Birchwood Casey's product "Barricade" is the best over the counter product available for normal rust prevention. I have been using RIG for a long time but find it very greasy although effective.

quote:

Originally posted by AFRICAN LEADWOOD:
Larry, where are you storing the rifle?

In my experience if you have a walk in safe, or a small room with your safes in a dehumidifier is miney well spent. If that's not practical I've drilled holed in the top of a safe and fitted a computer fan before that extracted air. The air movement seemed to help and I lived close to the coast at the time.

If you have problems oil helps but is seldom enough. I've used the "Wonder Lube" that guys lube patches with for muzzle loaders and Rig grease. Some sort of more permanent product to keep the air off the metal seemed preferable to oil.

I have a rather large secure closet. It is probably 20X8. I have never had another gun with a problem.

I must confess that there are a lot of products here that I have never heard of. I will check into them.

Thanks all.

quote:

Originally posted by 505G:

quote:

Originally posted by surestrike:

quote:

Originally posted by mdstewart:
Never use Hoppes #9 on a double rifle. It damages too many fine working parts. There are so many better and safer products for removing barrel build-up than Hoppes.

Please give us an example of what working parts Hoppes damages on a double rifle vs any other rifle?

I missed that.


MD
I only use Hoppe's on the bores to get Powder fouling out and no where else. Have done for 10 years, no problems yet.

Would be interested in your answer to the above
question by surestrike.

If you can use Hoppes on just the barrel bores themselves, it's great at removing build-up. I don't want it getting on ejectors, safety mechanisms, and especially in the action of a sidelock.

I have seen several examples where safeties, barrel selectors, and ejectors have been damaged and required repair after use of #9. It's more critical on older guns where soft solders may have weakened or where softer metals have been used.

I would say use what you want. But Hoppes is not an oil or lubricant, it's an aggressive attacker of soft metals.

MD

Thanks for that.

we are talking about the same thing,
Hoppe's No 9 Powder solvent ?

Which if that is the case, I can't see any
reason to use it on anything other than bores,
certainly not the sidelocks.

Anyway, thanks for the heads up.

Not talking about copper fouling in the bore here at all; that is a valid topic for discussion, but this thread is not addressing that. The military does still stress thorough cleaning and oiling of all weapons parts. For the record, I do clean out copper, but like to leave a slight copper color; I never clean to bare metal, especially on a DR. Anyway, the OP was talking about rust, not copper fouling. I submit that your humidity level in your storage unit is more important than anything; someone in Arizona can leave guns shoved into their closets and not worry about it. Try that here (where it has rained for the past 40 days (Noah was spotted buying lumber at Lowes),and you will get rust.

I live in Florida gents, and I've never had a problem with rust, even on long term storage in my safe. There are some guns in there I haven't used in years and are still rust free. I keep my VC double assembled, oiled with CLP/Break-Free and have not had an issue. Same for all my guns. I also have a Goldenrod Dehumidifier in the safe. As for Hoppe's I use it on occasion to clean my bores, mixed 50/50 with Kroil for Powder residue. For Copper removal I use Wipeout Foam cleaner. No issues so far.

Great thread. I just clean my guns with a bore snake, wipe them down with Rem Oil and put them away. Have never had a problem but I am going to pull them all out and check.

Larry

I have had good luck using wax. For a long time I used Turtle Wax, and it worked well even on the trips to the Alaskan peninsula, read wet and shitty followed by more wet and shitty weather. Several coats lightly wiped on and polished off with a clean soft cotton cloth. The only down side to the turtle wax was it could be a little bit of a chore to polish out of lettering of engraving, but a SOFT toothbrush works well.

I now use mostly Renaissance - micro crystalline wax polish from Brownells (800-741-0015). I think it superior as it is easier to remove and I can use in on wood also and it is not hard to remove from checkering or engraving. Again several coats polished between. A little goes along way.

For oil/lubrication I like a product call Weapon Shield - from Steel Shield Technologies (steelshieldtech.com)I like as it tends to stay where you put it better than some others.

Most all the oils mentioned above do fine as long as you do your part, but I do think the wax helps greatly.

Many Thanks

Brett

There is documentation out there regarding the effectiveness of various products in preventing rust on metal. The report "Rust Preventives for Firearms" can be found at
www.thegunzone.com
The only two to receive a top rating of BEST under sustained exposure are:


Break Free CLP ---- 5 Hours = No rust, bright / 29 Hours = No rust, Bright
Eezox ---- 5 Hours = No rust, bright / 29 Hours = No rust, bright

Similar tests have also shown Break Free CLP to be at or near the top, as is Eezox. There is good reason the U.S. military uses it on everything from individual weapons to tank cannon. Eezox can be difficult to locate, but Break Free CLP is available almost anywhere. BTW, the U.S. military also uses the Break Free CO Collector product for long term storage of issue ready weapons for 5 years of unattended storage prior to inspection.

quote:

Originally posted by jorge:
I live in Florida gents, and I've never had a problem with rust, even on long term storage in my safe. There are some guns in there I haven't used in years and are still rust free. I keep my VC double assembled, oiled with CLP/Break-Free and have not had an issue. Same for all my guns. I also have a Goldenrod Dehumidifier in the safe. As for Hoppe's I use it on occasion to clean my bores, mixed 50/50 with Kroil for Powder residue. For Copper removal I use Wipeout Foam cleaner. No issues so far.

Jorge:

I also live in FL. I have a number of guns none of which have ever rusted until this one. They are all in the same room. It is puzzling.

That is weird larry. Maybe you accidentally touched it or there was no oil film? CLP was always worked great for me. Also those items Zephyr mentioned are well-regarded by the Navy.

Larry, what kind of gun is it?

Look at the Sentry Solutions product
http://www.sentrysolutions.com...tegory_Code=FIREARMS

6mmBR.com had a great test:

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

Another very interesting article from the Garand Collector's Assoc. website give a nod to wax:

https://www.thegca.org/pdfs/Preserving.pdf

I use Breakfree for most of my guns and also a muzzle loading product:

http://reviews.cabelas.com/881...-reviews/reviews.htm

It is a wax like product and even on my muzzle loader, which will rust in a heartbeat, it prevents rust. On the guns that don't come out to play very often, I coat all the metal I can reach. It is non toxic and smell like pine needles. I have a set of LC Smith barrels that I stripped in preparation for rust bluing two years ago - there isn't a spec of rust on it after coating all surfaces with the "Nature Lube" wax.

quote:

Originally posted by N E 450 No2:
When you clean your double, coat the end of the chambers and the breach face of the action with either BreakFree, or RIG.

I use RIG as well. Stays put.