I've been lurking a long time and should contribute instead of just letting you guys do all the work.

I've had a 30-06 SPR22 for a few months now and my 45-70 is on it's way. I've spent quite a lot of time on it and it shoots very well now. The rear sight is completely useless and the front is funky. I've made replacements for both and continue to make prototypes to find the perfect one. The gun does not like high preassure, flowing the primers into holes. The right bbl is worse. I've handloaded all over and what I came up with is 220 gr (sierra, hornady and barnes) in front of IMR4350 for 2400fps. They give around 1 to 2 inches at 50 yards, using both bbls. With the barnes I've cut a new crimp groove to seat the bullet out far.

I've also:removed the auto safety, polished the insides and messed with the mainsprings to get the rifle to stay open. Part of that is grinding down the cocking tabs. After everything, I'm having fun with the gun.

If there is interest, I can be more specific and if I can figure out how, provide pics.

Mike

MRJudgeOC,

You seem to have taken action and moved ahead of most of the reports that I have read about these double rifles.

Please provide more details.

Thank you

Mike: Thanks for joining in and sharing your experience. Any details appreciated. Good to hear you have your .30-06 shooting that well.
I agree about the sights, especially the front sight. The cocking tab modifications have been mentioned by some of the fellows tuning their 12-gauge Spartan doubles for cowboy action shooting but it sounds like you have taken this further.

quote:

If there is interest, I can be more specific and if I can figure out how, provide pics.

Yes please! How did you remove the auto safety?

Gentlemen, thankyou for the warm welcome. That is why I decided to participate on this board. Overall the members here seem like a great group and should be proud.

One odd thing I've noticed with the 30-06 is that it quickly reaches a point of diminishing returns. I've only used 3 powders with it, and quickly found that 4350 works the best with mine. 52 grains is very accurate but offers no more velocity than 50 grains. Also, 2 shot groups, one from each bbl, are in the order of an inch at 50 yards. The bbls do heat up quickly. If you shoot groups with either bbl, it's very accurate, most times one hole at 50.

Bill, the front sight did, and still does pose the biggest problem. The tapped hole that the AK/SKS standard front sight screws into is the main road block. The easiest and fastest way to overcome that for me was to use some round stock, thread it and make a blade at the top. Not the prettiest but does look better than stock. The hole is 6mm but I'll have to look up what the thread pitch is from my notes. I know that it's not standard and I had to order a die from NY. My lathe wouldn't even cut that pitch, didn't have the right gears. I've started to make another one by machining a small block that will be dovetailed to take standard sights. I'll have to make a bushing for the big 6mm hole and drill and tap it. Then I got the bright idea of milling a one piece sight that will include the block/riser, blade and threaded shank. I'll let you know how it goes. The rear sight is not really a problem. You can fit any of the numerous 3/8 dovetailed rear sights. I started with an adjustable folding sight I had laying around. Worked fine, but I wanted a ridged one. I ended up cutting off the sight blade from an older Lyman/Williams ladder sight, dove tailing the bottom to fit a dovetailed base I made to fit the gun. Looks and works good. But, I'm not done playing with options.........

Nitehawk, removal of the auto safety is easy. Very little disassymbly is needed. I'll have to look again but I think you'll only have to remove the buttstock. I had totally taken it apart to "smooth" things up inside, but the bar that actuates the safety is all by itself. You'll notice the bar going from near the base of the lever straight back to the bottom of the safety. It's a stamped piece of metal that is mostly straight. Just move it down and to the side from the safety end and then you'll see how it comes off the other end. If I ever figure out pictures, I'll post. If you want more detailed help I think you should probably pm me since I think this is getting a little long.

Mike

Welcom to the forum and thank you for your input.
Bill

Thank you for the description. It's clear enough for me

I have a 20 ga/22 mag O/U Baikal, that I need to stay open further, but I haven't figured where to grind down the cocking tabs. Near the action, or at the ends? Hard to put that stuff back, once it's gone. Help, please.

Welcome aboard and I still want one of those guns...

Mike

XS, Sorry it took so long to respond. I'm not familiar with that gun and had to find a schematic online. If it's the same as the Remington SPR94 over under, which is just about the same as the SPR22, the owners manual is on their website. It contains a schematic and on that page, the part labeled 58 is the part to file. This is an easy, although tedious, project. You can also alter them to make the gun cock both hammers at the same time which reduces the heavy cocking feel even further. You can even do this without disassymbly. Look at how the parts interact with the corresponding part on the forearm. You'll then see where they meet/touch and that is where you'll file/grind. You are right about taking too much off, go slow and check often. You want the gun to cock just before the end of the stroke then the sears will actually be helping to hold the gun open.

Mike