Keep getting recurring rust problems on my double... Getting some rust from around express sight and barrels and underneath on the steel fastener on the forend where it attaches to rifle..

I have been using a lubricant but not stopping it.. Seems almost like bleeding even beads of moisture...

Mike

Don't know but I had a SxS 470 that was doing the same thing. There should be a small hole in the bottom rib, and it probably let water vapor in and now there is water/condensation between the barrels.

Find someplace to run a vacuum on your barrels to get rid of the water or fill them up with oil!

This is just a WAG but could be the problem.

Will's assessment is probably correct; use one of the spray lubricants with the small tube attached (like what comes with a can of WD-40, but something better than WD-40), & spray a lot of the rust inhibitor into the weepholes on the bottom rib. Since WD-40 will displace water, you might even want to first use WD-40, then follow up with a longer-lasting inhibitor. The problem almost has to be what Will says.

When you wipe your rifle down after shooting, use a tooth pick or twig or some or some stiff, thin but relatively soft object to "force" a rag or whatever your using to get into the seam along the 1/4 rib and front sight that otherwise your rag or whatever can't get to.

When you do a thourough cleaning, use some Q-tips didpped in your solvent of choice After that dry Q-tips and then a lightly oiled Q-tip.

If you were to run a damp Q-tip along the 1/4 rib and from sight mount you'll find a disconcerting amount of rust, I'll bet. It isn't all that visible down in the seam. Be gentle since as you remove the rust it becomes a "free floating" abrasive. So be gentle and change Q-tips frequently at first.

BTW, the wood stemmed Q-tips are better than the twisted cardboard or paper stemmed Q-tips, but either will work.

Once you knock of that rust, it seems there is much less potential for other rust.

Wiping off the barrels with solvent without getting down into the seams allows any moisture to remain there and it again isn't very visible.

Hope this helps,

JPK

JPK,

I used to do the same thing with my rusting 470. It didn't help unfortunately.

Mike,

If it was me I would look for some lab with a vacuum pump and jar (bell? I forget what they are called). If it takes very long for a vacuum to form, there is a lot of something out-gasing which would mean there is a lot of something between the barrels.

Or drill another hole in the bottom rib and rent a bottle of nitrogen and blow nitrogen in one hole and allow it to escape out of the other.

Like I said it's a WAG but might be worth a try.

Mike, Maybe you could remove the forarm and place the barrels in front of a heater for a day to allow things to thoroughly dry. Then get some linseed oil (I can send you some if you want to try this), heat it up and pour/inject it into the hole. This is the same stuff used to prevent corrosion inside welded tubing such as aircraft frames. Just my 2 cents. Dont let that 450 NO2 turn into a pile of rust before I get to bust a pig!!

I wonder if there is any solder/braze flux or bluing salts trapped in there .That would draw moisture and the two would do the rusting.

Mete is probably on the right path. Corrosion between barrels and ribs is a guaranteed constant. Both flux and salts attack the metal from the first day the gun is assembled. I use heat, followed by the WD40 and then by the linseed oil in my shop. The vacuum method is old science and would work its magic well using a vacuum chamber created using a section of 4"-6" plastic pipe. The vacuum would remove all the moisture in a hour or two using the same science as pulling down an A/C system prior to charging it with refrigerant. It is usually necessary to create or enlarge a vent hole or two in the lower rib (under the wood) to facilitate the process of getting access to the void. Having shortened many shotgun barrels and resoldered a loose rib or two, I can say every double I have worked on had corrosion in the barrel/rib void area. I once used a kerosene and sand mixture to clean out a void that had a lot of flaky rust under a loose rib. Not wanting to completely remove the rib, I remembered cleaning inside old motorcycle fuel tanks that way. A word of caution: Make sure the void is absolutely moisture free, whatever method used to dry the void. Once sealed under the linseed oil, the rust will still work on the metal.

And ???????????

If a hole is not there drill one? Use a plastic pipe for the vacuum chamber (better idea than mine)?

Then fill it up with linseed oil? And then it drain out?

Guys, I am ging to assume it is boiled linseed oil and not the raw linseed oil..

Their is no hole or holes...

Mike

Retreever

The symptoms you describe indicate the flux used to solder your ribs and sling stud was acid base. Had they used a rosin base flux you would not be having these problems.

Acid base flux can be removed with warm soapy water. Your situation suggests there is still a fair amount of acid flux weeping from the space between barrels. To put an end to your problems you would have to locate a couple of holes in the lower rib to circulate warm soapy water then hot clear water then blow out with compressed air. Oil everything well and tap the holes for plugs.

If no holes, drill them yourself.
Boiled linseed oil, not raw. Same oil as used on gunstocks.
I like the idea of tapping the holes for plugs...could use those plug screws made for filling unused scope mounting holes.
Mike

One could drill a couple holes under the forend. Doesn't seem like the rib would have enough thickness to tap.

Right about the lack of sufficient thickness to tap for screws. I'd use a dab of soft solder to plug the hole(s). Stay away from the adhesives like RTV or cyanoacrylics (super glue). They generate corrosive fumes when curing

If it were my expensive double gun I would strip it down to parts clean and dry them, and very, very lightly oil, and re-assemble.

Squirting oil in holes etc. is a good way to rot out the enletted wood.

If I did not have those capabilities then I would have a good smith do it for me, he should only charge about $25 to do it......

It may be from the solder but probably not the blueing as these guns are rust blued and well treated before leaving the companies...however Retrever lives in a swamp infested, high malaria, muggy, humid climate that is only fit for worms, mosques, bugs, spiders, snakes and fish! and that could be part of the problem!

Mike

Call JJ Perodeau at Champlin Arms, and talk to him about your problem.