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Hey all, I did a search and came up with a few threads on caring for double rifles, but I'm looking for some comprehensive sources for general double rifle care in regards to cleaning, oiling, servicing, etc. Anything specific to my Merkel 140AE would be spectacular. I'm currently using a .458 bore snake with some hoppe's #9, followed by a light coat of remoil and storing barrels down in the safe. Anyone have any criticisms of how I am cleaning the barrels? I really want to make sure I take care of this rifle, as I intend on keeping it at least as long as I'm alive! Thanks in advance, Brandon | ||
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Put a light coat of vaseline on the hinge pin to lube it. I put a coat or two of wax on all the metal and wood with Johnsons paste wax for autos. It works well if you're going to be out in the rain. NRA Life ASSRA Life DRSS Today's Quote: Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Give a man a welfare check, a free cell phone with free monthly minutes, food stamps, section 8 housing, a forty ounce malt liquor, a crack pipe and some Air Jordan's and he votes Democrat for a lifetime. | |||
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What are you using to clean the copper out ? I would use a Brush and a Rod + the Hoppe's No 9 to get the powder out and then Wipe Out Patch Out to get the copper out. After this, I leave Hoppe's No 9 in the barrels and give it another clean 2 - 3 days later when the barrel steel has sweated a bit more out of the pores. Then oil the bores with an oil. I use a bore snake to clean the barrels out before shooting it again. | |||
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Whoops, forgot to add that I use Butch's Bore Shine on a patch after the Hoppe's for the copper. I cleaned each barrel after each shot for the first ten shots with the above mentioned procedure as I do with all new (and new to me) rifles. Do you find the Wipe Out works better for copper than the Butch's? Any special procedure for cleaning the receiver end of the rifle? I just used a soft cloth and some Hoppe's to clean the receiver face. | |||
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OK, upon reading about this Wipe Out, I'm ordering a can! I'm yet to try any of these foaming solvents, this looks like a good time to start! | |||
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I went from Sweets 7.62 (yuk ammonia) to Wipe Out and haven't had any reason to change. Never used Butch's. Wipe Out (foam in a can) has now been replaced by Wipe Out Patch Out which comes in a liquid form in a bottle. Easier to ship (no DG charges). It is still as shit hot as the Wipe Out Foam, just more convenient to use !!! Works just as well on my guns as the Foam ever did. | |||
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Cleaning barrels: Wipe out and Kynoch Jag on a Parker Hale rod. The jag and rod is a little pricey, but for me it is well worth the money. I will usually leave the WipeOut in the barrel for about 4 to 6 hours. http://www.traderkeith.com/products.html I use a light coat of Shooters Choice high tech grease on all pivot points, hinges, and most mated machine surfaces. | |||
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I have been using Butches Bore Shine every time it is cleaned and followed by Wipe out every other time it is cleaned. The first post mentioned a bore snake. I have heard that the bore snake can be harmful by dragging the carbon through the barrel(carbon being harder than steel? thus scratching the steel) but do not know if this is correct. It would be good to know. ALLEN W. JOHNSON - DRSS Into my heart on air that kills From yon far country blows: What are those blue remembered hills, What spires, what farms are those? That is the land of lost content, I see it shining plain, The happy highways where I went And cannot come again. A. E. Housman | |||
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I have never heard of that and I use the bore snakes on all of my firearms, including both of my double rifles. But, if someone has some reliable, definitive information on that, I too, would like to hear about it, as the way that a bore snake is set up, the integral brass brushes coated with gun solvent loosen all of the fouling and then everything is tightly and literally pulled through with the back portion of the snake, leaving it thoroughly swabbed out. Some apply a light drop of oil to the back portion of the snake in order to leave a light coat of oil in the barrel. | |||
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I use a bore snake to pull through my firearm barrels before shooting. Quickest and easiest way to remove any oil, hoppe's, dirt etc especially when in the field - no need to carry any type of rod. | |||
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For the bores I run a patch soaked with Hoppes #9 followed with a few passes of the proper sized brass brush and then a clean patch. Afterwards I run a clean patch with a little Rem oil down each barrel. Then I'll apply a very small amount of lub to the locking lugs and metal to metal areas, wipe down the wood with maybe with a little stock treatment if warrented and put her away until next time. Jim | |||
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I would rather use a bore snake than a rod with out a bore guide. I keep the snakes real clean by flushing with break pad cleaner and a rag. JD DRSS 9.3X74 tika 512 9.3X74 SXS Merkel 140 in 470 Nitro | |||
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Can you please elaborate on how you clean your bore snakes?? | |||
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Wash then in the washing machine or a sink. If you use a washing machine, put them in a cotton bag so the wire brush part doesn't get caught on anything else. | |||
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I use almost the same procedure for mine, now. I'm just interested in how the brake cleaner works and whether or not that would cause harm to the fibers of the snake or the brush itself. | |||
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' It shouldn't. Some really strong cleaners would have an effect on the nylon but if that was the case then switch cleaners but I haven't known any cleaners to do so. | |||
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spray them with breakclearner then run them through a clean rag, Then through washing machine in a bag. JD DRSS 9.3X74 tika 512 9.3X74 SXS Merkel 140 in 470 Nitro | |||
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I just wipe the jag and brass rod with a clean rag I may have some delrin bore guides machined for my 470 and 450-400. That may not be a bad idea. | |||
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