Is there any barrel cleaning routine that I should use when I'm firing rounds to check for grouping while working up loads?

Any particular number of rounds before cleaning the barrels?

9.3x74R Chapuis

Thank you!

Clean your bore and use something that removes Copper fouling. Fire two shots then your group. repeat.

Thank you - how many shots are typically fired to determine a grouping?

And what solvent do you recommend?

Just start with clean barrels and shoot,I shoot a lot when I am on the range,never had any problems developing loads,I usually shoot 20 to 40 rounds on avg each session,with each gun,never noticed any problems,I always allow cooling time between shots,if the barrels feel hot to the touch.

I dont clean to bare metal all that often on my larger bore doubles (450-470). On my 7x65R I clean more often, maybe once every 40-50 rounds. I notice the regulation suffers on the 7MM as the barrel gets dirty.

The big stuff requires much less cleaning IMO. Run a patch down the barrel with CLP on a regular basis, but no need to deep clean anymore than necessary.

quote:

Originally posted by Oxon:
Thank you - how many shots are typically fired to determine a grouping?

And what solvent do you recommend?

I clean at the end of the range session. I don't bother cleaning between groups.


"how many shots are typically fired to determine a grouping?"
IF I know the shots were steady - as in I had the same aim point
for each shot, then I leave it at 4, 2 from each barrel.
I might check it / confirm a bit later with another 2 - 4.
That's just my HO.


As poster above said, big bores tend not to lose accuracy compared to smaller bores so require less cleaning.

I use Wipe Out Patch Out as I know it is safe to use and
leave in old guns / barrels.

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Here are three of the best Copper removers. Shooters’ Choice Copper Remover (tall black plastic bottle, not glass bottle type), Sweet’s 762 and Barnes CR10. Wipe Out works good but be aware it will eat right through the finish of older wood stocked guns.

I do not own a DR. I have 2 editions of "Shooting the British Double rifle" by Graeme Wright and read it many times. Very informative book IMHO.

quote:

Originally posted by Slider:
it will eat right through the finish of older wood stocked guns.

So will most other bore cleaners. Powder or copper.

Most Powder or copper cleaners will mark any finish on even modern guns.

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I like the foams and a bore snake, keep it very clean and in a clear plastic when not being pulled through. Remove the barrel from the rifle, fill with foam let soak, pull snake through, refill with foam ,set the barrels to drain toward the muzzel and place in a cardboard box,with paper towels under the muzzel,when it drans clear you are done.

JD

When I am working up loads for a SxS double, I fire 4-shot groups...a L, a R, then repeat....same as I would when using one in the bush.

As to cleaning, I am still using an old Parker-Hale miscable oil which smells as if it also contains ammonia. I bought a couple of Imperial Gallon-cans of it in the late 60's, and haven't run out yet.

I like it because if I am using cartridges with corrosive primers, the water in the oil-mix takes care of getting the salts from the primers out of the barrels, and the oil part also seems to do a bit of rust prevention and lubrication. (When used, the oil is mixed half and half with distilled water...)

If I am trying different powders when working on my loads, I clean between each powder.

May be a zillon scientific errors in my method, but it seems to work okay for me.

The double rifle is designed to regulate perfectly with the first two shots from a fouled, and ambient temperature barrel set! This is the only way the double rifle regulates, perfectly and so loads to find regulation should be all shot under those conditions to find regulation. All shots fired after the first two will not be as percise and will get worse as the barrels heat. The rifle can be practiced the four defensive shots after the regulation is found.

The process is, starting with clean barrels, fire four shots at the hill side to foul the barrels, then let the rifle cool back to ambient temperature before the regulation work begins.

Start with the regulation shooting firing only a right and left shots! Let the barrels cool again the fire another right and left shots, again let the barrels cool back to room temperature, and so on, with a cooling between each right and left firings till you have a four shot group from each barrel, all from cool barrels.

This is best done with two separate targets side by side, with the right barrel on one target, and the left barrel on the other. Now find the center of each barrel’s individual group on it’s own target in relation to the aiming point. Now overlay one target over the other and draw through the bullet holes of the top target with a red pen. This will give you a clear indication of which bullets came from which barrel on the bottom target.

If it is regulated properly the CENTER of each barrel’s individual group will be on it’s own side of the aiming point on the target by equal amounts. Perfect will be the CENTERS will be on it’s own side of the aiming point half the distance between the bore of your rifle.

Certainly some of each barrel’s four bullets will spill over into the group of the other barrel, but the CENTERS of each barrel should remain on it’s own side of the aiming point. NOW that you have regulated the rifle properly, you can practice with your four quick shots, as you will when hunting buffalo. Shooting all regulating shot from cool, fouled barrels is the only true way you will find true regulation. The final regulated composit group should be slightly egg shape with the aiming point in the middle of that composit group. Many make the mistake of wanting the rifle shoot both barrels into the same hole on the target. This is not only be very hard to come by, and is totally WRONG. If all bullets are hitting the same hole at any distance then the rifle is CROSSING at that distance, and will continue to cross wider down range. The barrels are not made converging to make them cross but to make them regulate side by side or parallel!

This seems like a lot of trouble but it only goes to show you what the factory regulator goes through day in and day out regulating rifle of ever caliber from 22 high power, to 600NE.

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