I am in process of buying baikal mod.221 and would like someone post some picture of replace the jack screw system with a wedge in the place of the jack screw system and can it be done?

Can it be done? Certainly, although I did not alter mine. It does not look any worse than the rest of the rifle, and if you remove it, you will have a big gap in the bottom rib where the adjusting wheel was. The jack screw is in the middle of the barrel; before you replace it with a solid piece, you will want to shoot it and get it regulated, then make a steel piece to solder into where you removed the jack screw. No need for a wedge if you know in advance how wide it needs to be. If you are going to that trouble, might as well remove the muzzle band and make a solid, soldered piece for that as well. And a new front sight ramp. And new steel ribs. Otherwise, leave it as is. It does work.

Just curious but why would you want to replace the adjusting mechanism?

I got lucky, mine shot GREAT right out of the rack. I have not heard of anyone doing what you are asking about. Adjust yours as necessary but once it is shooting well it seems kind of hard to justify custom work like that on a $600 rifle. On the other hand, its your rifle, have fun makeing it like you want it!
P.S. I did think about a little epoxy on the adjustment mechanism but I don't believe it will jar loose so I just let it be. Any thoughts?

quote:

Originally posted by JCS271:
P.S. I did think about a little epoxy on the adjustment mechanism but I don't believe it will jar loose so I just let it be. Any thoughts?

Owned my 30-06 for a couple of years and the adjustment mechanism never went out of wack.

I just got one in 30-06. Has anyone put a scope on it and what mounts did you use. I know the rail accommodates 11mm rings.

Tried a couple of scopes then ran into excessive regulation problems. Anything more than the weight of a red dot and I could not regulate it. But, every rifle is different, give it a try.

butch:
the rail is 11mm the rings are 1 inch.

I was out shooting my baikal 221 45-70 today but unfortunately I need to play around with things to get it shooting.I had some loads shooting a foot apart horizontally at 50yds and others 5 inches apart vertically...a whole mess.I got a big fat lip from the whole thing.I tried Vit 133,IMR 4895 and Hodgon 4895.To early to draw any conclusions but things could have been much better no doubt.

I removed the jack screw ,the front band/sight arrangement and both top and bottom ribs.I made a front spacer that is .313" wide and a mid length spacer that is .280" wide.When held together by hose clamps it shoots my handloads into 1" at 25 yds.I will verify the regulation at 50yds before soldering everything together.I purchased some 1/2" x 1/8"x 48" flat stock to make the ribs with.I see talented individuals turn shotguns into beautiful doubles.I figured everything is already here if i wanted to try my hand at customizing a double. It is light, a big-bore, inexpensive and a good platform to tinker with.No big loss if I screw up.

You are on the right track, 460. As for scopes, I l have an "06 and it shoots remarkably well with two different scopes. The 45-70s seem to be more sensitive. Slow bullets/recoil/muzzle flip and jump all factor into DR regulation.

I have decided to go with Warne steel 1" rings for .22s to fit the 11mm grooved rail. there is no cross slot in the rail and there is some concern that the rings could loosen. I have a Minox 3x9 in the safe doing nothing so that is whst I'm using.

Any experience with this set up?

Oh, I have Kimber rings on my 06, with no recoil lug and they do not move at all; the front ring is up against the rear sight which acts as a stop. BTW, those two shots at the top are the final adjustment and it shoots that way all day. Amazing.

Has anyone found a good way to correct one barrel shooting higher than the other? Have a 45-70 that regulates well bringing the barrels and the POI together but one barrel shoots higher than the other.

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
I was out shooting my baikal 221 45-70 today but unfortunately I need to play around with things to get it shooting.I had some loads shooting a foot apart horizontally at 50yds and others 5 inches apart vertically...a whole mess.I got a big fat lip from the whole thing.I tried Vit 133,IMR 4895 and Hodgon 4895.To early to draw any conclusions but things could have been much better no doubt.

Wow! That's actually very good groupings for you!

If you have vertical non alignment, you will need to re-position the front barrel band. It is pinned in place. I would remove the pins and solder it on. Some have said to put set screws in the band, but I think it is too thin for that; I would solder it on and regulate it from there. Others have said to use shims; my front band fits to tightly that there is zero room for a shim of any thickness. In any case, it is an easy fix for anyone who can solder.

quote:

Originally posted by Dr L. S. Wirthlin:
Has anyone found a good way to correct one barrel shooting higher than the other? Have a 45-70 that regulates well bringing the barrels and the POI together but one barrel shoots higher than the other.

Try sliding an automotive feeler guage between the barrel band and barrel. Mine moved about 6 inches. Just increase the thickness until it gets where you want it then snip it off with a pair of sharp scisors. Works a treat! If you can't get a feeler guage in there, then you will have to do the solder thing.

Best of luck!

Thanks for the tips. I enjoy that Baikal double even though I have and have had other very fine double rifles. Not so worried about taking a work of art hunting or to the range. I like the fact that you can adjust the regulation for your hand loads.

It looks as though vertical separation may be a perplexing issue with some of the 221s. I'm currently struggling with the issue myself but I've taken a somewhat different approach to the problem than the suggestions outlined above.

I noticed that the right hand barrel on my rifle canted up just a bit and actually made the front sight lean a bit to the left. As one might imagine, when I've shot the thing, the right barrel prints somewhat higher on target than does the left. Now, before anyone goes running off and tries this I must make it very clear that I have yet to test this solution at the range so for all I know it may be 'highly dangerous'. I would therefore urge you not try this until I've checked it out and even then think carefully before you consider it. Anyway, this what I did. I disassembled the rifle, placed the barrel group in a padded vice and tightened it up so the vice griped the barrels just above the rear sight bands. I then took a very large Cresent spanner (so large that the jaws go right across both barrels - which is most important), padded it and tightened it up just below the front sight barrel band. I then gingerly started twisting the barrels in the opposite direction to the run-out. After a bit of trial and error I got the two barrels lining-up flat and the front sight into a vertical rather than canted position. The whole exercise took maybe 5-10 minutes. As far as I can tell (without having actually shot it) the rifle is just fine but rest assured, I will be securing it to an old tire and firing it remotely when I next take it out to the range; just in case I've buggered something up. I hope this will correct or at least alleviate my vertical separation problem but until its properly tested I can't be sure.

Anyway, this is what I've done. Just remember though, I'm certainly am not suggesting anyone else tries it.

Finally, I'd also point out that even if this works in my case, it wouldn't necessarily help everyone who has this problem. If the bores in you rifle aren't straight, for example, I doubt this would be of much use.

You have not done anything unsafe or dangerous so don't worry about that. However, there might be a situation where the locating pins would indent the bore if you twist them too much; especially 45-70s have thin barrel walls. What you have done is bent the locating pins for the front band; as soon as you shoot it, eventually the barrels will probably go back to their original position. I think it won't hold in the new position. Removing the pins and soldering the front band on would be a better solution. But you do get an E for effort and creativity; that is how new ideas are born.

I have soldered the mid spacer into place and also the front wedge. I am ready to solder the top and bottom ribs into place but was wondering about corrosion between the ribs. How does one prevent it. I am worried about the flux and bare metal and rust build-up over time. I have read Ellis Browns book and watched Cowboy CS's videos but did not see it addressed anywhere. Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks

I had tried using a fix similar to Lonewulf's. So far, it has stayed stable through two boxes of Hornady's LeveRevolution factory loads (gun has shot its best accuracy with this load). Also have shot some Speer bullet and cast bullet handloads through it. No changes so far, but who knows what the future may hold.

I tried a load for mine in which it must be regulated for. The other loads were at least 12" high and 12" to the side both ways.

Is this normal at 50 yards? This is my first double rifle. I just could believe how much difference there was at that distance.

Cal30

That is normal for a DR shooting loads for which it was not regulated. Anything can, and will, happen. Or it might not. Double Rifles are a unique breed and no two are alike. Any time you solder two barrels together, and expect them to ever shoot together, you are delving into alchemy, not science.

I finally got my 45-70 Baikal regulated by putting a shim on the right barrel under the barrel band. This barrel had a pronounced vertical displacement. The hotter loads were more difficult to regulate so I settled on 38.5 gr IMR 3031 under a cast 405 grain bullet with a gas check. Velocity is ok. A fun gun when you sort out the triggers, add a scope to the rail and finally get it regulated.