I received my Merkel 470 back from JJ, had him install a recoil pad. Shot the rifle from sitting pisition and it really pops you, standing is OK but not sitting.
I am going to order a mercury recoil reducer, I removed the recoil pad, there is a steel rod in the stock for balance that I think is not removable and then the hole for the bolt to remove the stock, how can I secure the recoil reducer in the stock?

gi - you will have to remove the steel rod and replace it with a mercury tube of the same diameter.

If you can't get a grip on the steel rod, I'd suggest drilling and tapping it. Then attach a bolt to gain the "grip" you need to remove it.

As for installation of the new recoil reducer, it should look something like the illustration below. The mercury tube should be shorter than the origial steel, and you'll have to fill-in the gap with piece of wood. You can buy black-walnut dowels in 3/4" or 1" depending on the diameter of the hole and reducer.



Make sure you have a good, tight fit between the recoil reducer and the wood (diameter wise), and don't use electrical or duct tape to make it tighter... you'll never get that "goo" out of there if you remove the recoil reducer.

I've used aluminum shims (pieces of soft-drink cans) epoxied to the reducer before, and that seems to work well. The mfg probably reccomends "strapping tape."

Hope that helps.

gi,

I have used both the mercury reducers and the Dead Mule reducers and have found the Dead Mules to reduce perceived recoil a bit more and they don't slosh. Brownells has both kinds. FWIW.

Mr. gi:

I would suggest you try epoxying a nut on to the end of the steel pin. When it cures you should be able to thread a screw into the nut to use as a handle to pull the pin out.

Sounds different from mine. Mine had the steel rod but it had a tab plate on butt end that was attached to stock with wood screw. The steel rod had a groove in the 'front' end with a rubber 'o' ring to keep it from rattling. You might try pulling it with a stong magnet. Should be a slip fit. Try using 'o' rings around the mercury reducer to keep it from rattling like the original weight. It sounds like when he cut the stock he cut the threaded portion of the rod off to match stock and didn't put the keeper back on. When mine was cut the rod was reinstalled as it was originally but sheared the wood screw holding it on the 4th shot. I figure thats because the Decellerator is hollow with ribs and it had no direct support like the solid buttplate gave it. Inertia took care of the rest. I just removed it and continued to hunt. Have not gotten around to putting it back. I actually like the feel without it. I do like the Mercury reducers though and have used them on several guns.

My steel rod is actually a lead rod. I drilled & tapped it for 3/8" bolt and all it did was strip the threads. JJ installed the recoil pad so I don't know what was in there, I will leave the lead rod in, because I can't get it out.

On the bolt stock hole, I will probably put 1/4 piece of rubber then a piece of wood, then the mercury reducer and then secure it in place. Will that work?

Just put a thin metal plate over end with 2 wood screws to hold reducer in No inletting required as the Decellerator is hollow and nothing will show. Plate just has to bridge hole and does not even have to totally cover it width wise. Just be sure the reducer is held FIRMLY in the hole so it doesn't beat up the thrubolt if it moves. The rubber is a good idea.
I would try to get the lead out though as you would have to to tighten stock if required and might be easier to do here than in Africa in the field. The lead must have been driven in, I would try drilling it out or better yet call and see how it was installed. It may just be upset around the throughbolt from recoil and a deeper 3/8" tapped hole will pull it.

On Krieghoff doubles the Break-O reducer is installed by drilling a new hole of the appropriate size above the hole for the drawbolt. The Break-O is pushed in, with the threaded hole in the Break_O facing the the rear of the stock. Then a round dowel plug is placed in the hole. The recoil pad is then put back on. It works all right on my 500NE. No rattles or slosh that I perceive. I did however take it out as it was not worth carrying an extra 14 oz. all day when it is hot and you are walking a few miles. It helps at the range, but I can't really tell you how much. Maybe someone has a test to see what the reduction would be. For sure the .500NE did not kick like a 30-06.

quote:

Originally posted by ACRecurve:
gi,

I have used both the mercury reducers and the Dead Mule reducers and have found the Dead Mules to reduce perceived recoil a bit more and they don't slosh. Brownells has both kinds. FWIW.

How do the Dead Mule Reducers work?

quote:

Originally posted by bulldog563:
How do the Dead Mule Reducers work?

I'm not sure. The description in Brownells catalog doesn't help much. Their superiority is just my perception. Hopefully someone who knows how they work will chime in.

The mecury ones I have used sloshed, but weren't BreakO's.

gi,

I posted on the Africa forum recoil management post....See if you can find it and read it...I have got the recoil down to a science and control..

Mike

quote:

Originally posted by retreever:
gi,

I posted on the Africa forum recoil management post....See if you can find it and read it...I have got the recoil down to a science and control..

Mike

Mike,
I found your post on recoil management...can't wait to take my 404 out and try it. Thanks!