The red on this vintage DR stock looks really nice.So does the checkering and leather pad.Too bad we don't see nice things like this more often.This actually looks nice and red on only one of my two computers or screens.
[URL= ]DR[/URL]

An oil finish with alkenet root is still common today and easily duplicated. The difference you are seeing is darkening over time and oxidation, cant duplicate that.

Yes Linseed oil with alkanet root works.

Here are some pictures from my Mannlicher Schoenauer restock project http://forums.accuratereloadin...611058421#8611058421

Loading block form 416 Rigby


I infused the Alkanet root in 3 ways - Boiled linseed oil, mineral spirits & Meths. All three came out fine. I found the effect on the wood was very similar. I mixed them & found no difference as the oil was too thick any way. I ended up mixing all infusions (2 years!) and using it.

I applied the oil mix and sanded it into the wood many times. Finished it with paste wax. Truoil would not stay on this surface as a final coat.

quote:

Originally posted by Nakihunter:
Yes Linseed oil with alkanet root works.

Here are some pictures from my Mannlicher Schoenauer restock project http://forums.accuratereloadin...611058421#8611058421

Loading block form 416 Rigby


I infused the Alkanet root in 3 ways - Boiled linseed oil, mineral spirits & Meths. All three came out fine. I found the effect on the wood was very similar. I mixed them & found no difference as the oil was too thick any way. I ended up mixing all infusions (2 years!) and using it.

I applied the oil mix and sanded it into the wood many times. Finished it with paste wax. Truoil would not stay on this surface as a final coat.

That looks like a failed attempt as I do not see any red.

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
That looks like a failed attempt as I do not see any red.

Pure class just seeps from every one of your pores...

+1

quote:

Originally posted by Huvius:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
That looks like a failed attempt as I do not see any red.

Pure class just seeps from every one of your pores...

You are the one throwing personal insults and I am sure you have followed me around and done this to me numerous times.This thread is about rifles not if or not you like me.

quote:

You are the one throwing personal insults and I am sure you have followed me around and done this to me numerous times.This thread is about rifles not if or not you like me.

Produce one example of my insulting you.

You are right, this thread is about rifles, and if you had bothered to read and understand the thread, you would know that a stock which is stained with alkanet root will darken and the reds you are looking for will develop over time, years and even decades.

How can you say Nakihunter's block doesn't exhibit any red? Did you see it before staining?

Why does the Lon Paul stock already show a nice red? You can see more pictures of this 458 Lott on his sight.

Maybe you should start finishing stocks. Great way to learn the process.

As to why some stocks appear redder, darker, or lighter comes down to the original color of the wood. Higher concentrations of alkanet root and/or rottenstone might get you more red or darkness, but it will only go so far. The largest determining factor is the wood color. If you want a dark red stock, pick a piece of wood that is dark and red.

The game changes when you introduce real chemical stains. No English best gun maker uses these methods that I am aware of.

I heard that once you sand a walnut blank they are all the same color.So I dont know how you could start with red wood.After looking at all the blanks being made into stocks over the years-photos posted here on AR and elsewhere I think it is true that there wood is all the same color once you sand it.So I was wondering before starting the thread if it is not the skill of the individual preparing the stain that can make for a nice red to begin with.I believe there must be some skill involved and some are better at it than others.

quote:

Originally posted by thirdbite:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
I heard that once you sand a walnut blank they are all the same color.So I dont know how you could start with red wood.After looking at all the blanks being made into stocks over the years-photos posted here on AR and elsewhere I think it is true that there wood is all the same color once you sand it.So I was wondering before starting the thread if it is not the skill of the individual preparing the stain that can make for a nice red to begin with.I believe there must be some skill involved and some are better at it than others.

You surely must jest. You've had enough fun - get a life!

I have one and I am going elephant hunting with the money I earned.How about you? How about you wanker?

Yes, all wood is created equal. You've got it figured out.

quote:

Originally posted by Aaron Little:
Yes, all wood is created equal. You've got it figured out.

Do you specialize in stocks or do you just specialize in everything?

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
I heard that once you sand a walnut blank they are all the same color.So I dont know how you could start with red wood.After looking at all the blanks being made into stocks over the years-photos posted here on AR and elsewhere I think it is true that there wood is all the same color once you sand it.So I was wondering before starting the thread if it is not the skill of the individual preparing the stain that can make for a nice red to begin with.I believe there must be some skill involved and some are better at it than others.

You have been grossly misinformed.
I think, Shootaway, that this is the source of why so many get crossways with you.
You do have a tendency to make suppositions which, if you stopped to think about it, make absolutely no sense. This remark about walnut color being a prime example.

I believe when it comes to building rifles some are very good with metal,others with stocks,other in getting them to shoot well,etc..and some could be very good with making a good stain.

Can someone show us a picture of a stock when new that did not show red and a picture years later where the red shows.

My FN CCS 25 o/u 9,3x74R came with a hand rubbed oil finish. Now, I bought this rifle new in 1982 and as expected it collected its share of dents and dings in the field. However, it still shows up in fine conditions because I regularly steam out all dents, sand away the raised whiskers and finally hand rub in the stock several coats (one a day for 3-4 days) of my home made stock renovator. Years ago, I got this formula from an old cabinet maker who told me to mix 50/50 boiled (not raw) linseed oil with turpentine, then add 5% of a dryer. This is the result on a rifle which just achieved its 32rd. drive hunting season.

Andre,I can not see any red in your stock.

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
Andre,I can not see any red in your stock.

Red comes from an added stain (natural or synthetic). I don't add stain to my "recipe", which is rubbed in wood having rich burly figure to start with.

3 more examples of "my" oil rubbed in different wood grades :

BTW,a stock finish should have a nice red if it is going to have red.I cannot describe what a nice red is but it should be pleasant to the eyes and vintage like.

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
BTW,a stock finish should have a nice red...

De gustibus non disputandum , to each his tastes. As shown in my pics above, I prefer to enhance and bring out the natural beauty of wood.

Judging color (especially red) from a digital photo is a dubious practice, especially when the file is of unknown origin. I can make a stock look as red as you want with the click of a mouse.

quote:

Originally posted by Woodhits:
Judging color (especially red) from a digital photo is a dubious practice, especially when the file is of unknown origin. I can make a stock look as red as you want with the click of a mouse.

I agree.

quote:

Originally posted by Andre Mertens:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
Andre,I can not see any red in your stock.

Red comes from an added stain (natural or synthetic). I don't add stain to my "recipe", which is rubbed in wood having rich burly figure to start with.

3 more examples of "my" oil rubbed in different wood grades :

That is why it should be work done by a specialist.One who knows when and how it will work best.It could be that it makes nice wood look even nicer.Oil alone is a stain,IMO and so is the other stuff used that you do not like.I do not like anything synthetic on my wood.

I have read about this magical 'alkanet stuff' since I have been reading these forums.I have never seen any nor have I used it in the 60+ years I have been making stocks,both rifle and pistol. I know I have poor vision as I have worn glasses since before grade school. But saying all that I have yet to distinguish this 'red' color everyone talks about. I know it must exist as everyone says it's the magic the English stockmakers used to produce such wonderful stocks. Of course that is just my antique opinion and probably valueless. I must admit I have a very difficult time telling one type of walnut (French,English,Turkish,American,Circassian) from another. I admire those that can, their skill. I am able to distinguish Maple from Walnut though for what that's worth and I have a pretty good idea what Oak looks like. I am also able to distinguish what Zebrawood,Amaranth,Vermillion and a few others are so I'm not at a total loss,just fail to see the Red. I'm not red/green color blind as I have had that checked. Just disadvantaged I suppose.

Great stuff and great information.
Got old savage with rather ugly wood that I turned into 404J
Now I got good idea, how to make it nicer.

And the pissing and moaning match?
If you sit down over couple of beers, any question is constructive and no one is offended, over internet every other question can be taken out of context or taken personal.
So my rule of thumb is never take anything personal. And thanks George for some good info.

Just amazing the trivial things this board can find to argue about.