I'm sure it's been discussed before, but is seems that nowadays with all the new foaming bore cleaners and wonder-chemicals, most of us were doing it wrong all our lives. I've noticed that my VC 450, doesn't really like to be cleaned down to bare metal (i.e. copper removal), in fact, it takes about two or three shots before she groups shoot to satisfaction. What and how do you guys clean yours?

Good day.
Oil and #9 it is for me.
It seems, like in the world of bullets, folks try to reinvent the wheel. They like to tout their product as the best until another comes along and makes the same claim.
I powder coat lead bullets now so lead in the bore is no longer a problem. At low double rifle velocities I have never had a problem with copper.
So, a little #9 on a patch set over a brush for the first run, then a dry patch to mop up, then an oiled patch and that's it.
Too much junk on the market. Solvents that disolve lead and/or copper and crap. Try it--put a penny or piece of lead in a small cup and cover it with solvent. Days later it looks the same--nothing has disolved.
For the exterior, a little oil on a cloth and tung oil on the stock and all is well.
Cheers,
Cal

I really like this stuff for external metal and wood.

https://imgur.com/a/dg4XN

I pretty much only use whipeout anymore.

I use Wipeout quite a bit as well, but my question as described above, do I really need it? Given Cal's post, the answer appears to be "no"

quote:

Originally posted by jorge:
I use Wipeout quite a bit as well, but my question as described above, do I really need it? Given Cal's post, the answer appears to be "no"

I just like how easy it is.

Wipeout for the inside of the barrel(s) and Balastol (sp) the green German stuff for the outside metal and wood.

KG12 for bores when I feel like it.

Balistol for all metal and wood and leather.

Cal is from Alaska they have 10 months of winter and two months of bad sledding.....probably still has Frozen Brain in July......

Do you guys regrease after each shooting. I have been bc that is what Heym told me to do.

quote:

Originally posted by LHeym500:
Wipeout for the inside of the barrel(s) and Balastol (sp) the green German stuff for the outside metal and wood.

+1

quote:

Originally posted by cal pappas:
Good day.
Oil and #9 it is for me.
It seems, like in the world of bullets, folks try to reinvent the wheel. They like to tout their product as the best until another comes along and makes the same claim.
I powder coat lead bullets now so lead in the bore is no longer a problem. At low double rifle velocities I have never had a problem with copper.
So, a little #9 on a patch set over a brush for the first run, then a dry patch to mop up, then an oiled patch and that's it.
Too much junk on the market. Solvents that disolve lead and/or copper and crap. Try it--put a penny or piece of lead in a small cup and cover it with solvent. Days later it looks the same--nothing has disolved.
For the exterior, a little oil on a cloth and tung oil on the stock and all is well.
Cheers,
Cal

Damn Cal, you took the words right out of my mouth! The only modern thing I use on my doubles is Militec-1 grease on my hook to cross pin surfaces. It stays in place, and dampens shock load. Other wise my doubles may as well be still in the early 1900s. I'm not one for gimmicks where double rifles are concerned! Just showing my age I guess!
.......................................................................

MAC:
Great minds think alike.
Where were you 9 months before 8-24-1955?
Could you be my dad?

Please don't forget to come to our double shoot May 5. Everyone here is invited, too.
Cal

Perhaps this has been intimated or is too obvious to mention, but be careful with any aggressive solvent in case it eats the solder in your db. I have a large bottle of Sweets but am not game to use it.

quote:

Originally posted by sambarman338:
Perhaps this has been intimated or is too obvious to mention, but be careful with any aggressive solvent in case it eats the solder in your db. I have a large bottle of Sweets but am not game to use it.

This is truth.

The market is full of super aggressive solvents and whatnot. If you don't have a problem that warrants them, don't use them.

If you want to know what the barrel needs, look at it. Best...buy a borescope. There is even an I-Phone app with a tiny light on a wire you can get cheap and use that.

Look at the barrel. It tells you what it needs.

You don't have to clean it to the steel. A bit of coppering isn't a problem in most cases. Carbon, on the other hand...that can lead to pitting.

Personal view-

First...never get anything on the wood, so mask off or remove wood.

Second...if you don't have proper tools, don't do it. Proper screwdrivers, coated cleaning rods, brass tips, bronze brushes, real patches, and so on. Improper cleaning leads to damage.

For cleaning...use products that don't cause rust and be able to remove 100% of it when done. Cleaners don't lube. Soaking a double in cleaner and getting it down into places where you can't get it out...not good.

When I clean a rifle, this is what I do-

Hoppes # 9...yes, it is weak and it doesn't go after copper well. I know that and I love it because it is mostly kerosene and can't rust anything. Soak the bore in Hoppes and patch a few times. Let it soak for hours, patching wet every half hour or so. Brush with a bronze brush and coated rod, preferably through a bore guide to protect the throat. Brushes go 1 way...wipe rod frequently.

Soak more.

Patch dry and inspect.

Slip 2000 Carbon Cutter...it is magical. It will cut carbon like no other. It is also citrus based and ok for your health. However...it will rust metal if left in place for more than a day or two. Wet the bore heavily. Chemistry at work. It's just a carbon cutter...can't harm anything else. Brush/wet. Let soak for 4 hours, wetting every 30 minutes.

Patch dry and inspect.

If clean and FULLY dry, wet bore with rust preventative lube like Break Free CLP. With wet CLP patch, wipe all metal surfaces to prevent rust. Store muzzle down. Check every 24 hours for 3 days to see if any cleaner runs down the bore that you missed.

If exposed to water...use a moisture displacing lube.

If stock got wet, let air dry slowly.

Stocks may need attention too.

Leather recoil pads need hydration from time to time as well...not just polish.

quote:

Originally posted by McKay:

quote:

Originally posted by jorge:
I use Wipeout quite a bit as well, but my question as described above, do I really need it? Given Cal's post, the answer appears to be "no"

I just like how easy it is.

I've been using it with the accelerator, I can't believe how much faster it works.

quote:

Originally posted by Aaron Little:
I really like this stuff for external metal and wood.

https://imgur.com/a/dg4XN

Does it turn white in the rain?

I use a foam cleaner for my double and all my big bores.I like break-free much better than wipe-out.I use a foam cleaner because all my big bores copper foul heavily and there is a lot of surface area in their bores that will collect copper compared to smaller bores.I will clean after about 20-30rds.I first remove carbon and loose powder fouling with a solvent soaked patch then a copper brush.I dry it out then use the foam cleaner(about 2 overnight applications).I then use JB on a patch on a copper brush and give it just a few strokes-about 20.I remove the JB then lightly oil.As far as the wood goes,I don't use anything on it.
I find that when I am shooting jacketed solids, even very few, more applications of the foam cleaner are required-more of the JB too.

quote:

Originally posted by cal pappas:
MAC:
Great minds think alike.
Where were you 9 months before 8-24-1955?
Could you be my dad?

Please don't forget to come to our double shoot May 5. Everyone here is invited, too.
Cal

...................................................................

One of the advantages I am told by the inventor of Wipe Out (he will pick up the phone when you call Wipe Out)...is that it is not harmful to the bore and that you should leave it in the bore after cleaning.
Where a lot of the carbon in your bore comes from is shooting the gun with oil that has been left in the bore after cleaning. He recommends leaving Wipe out in the bore unless you are storing the gun for a spell, then suggest you coat the bore with what ever you think works. Because Wipe Out is not petroleum base it will not turn into carbon during your shooting session.
One should all ways run a dry patch through your gun before shooting after it has been stored with your oil.

I like Wipe Out too, but Hoppe's never lets me down either.

Brush with Hoppe's...
Sit overnight...
Patch out...
Repeat...

Remember that there is a layer of copper covered by a layer of powder, covered by a layer of copper, etc... so it takes multiple applications for a thorough cleaning.

During the hunting season, I tend not to focus too much on copper removal, but I do clean after each shooting.

At the end of the season, however, I clean down to bare metal and saturate with oil for "off-season" storage.

If you rust/pit your bolt action barrel, it will cost HUNDREDS of dollars to replace it with a new one.

If you do the same with your double, it will take THOUSANDS of dollars to replace the barrels.

I also avoid ammonia at all costs.

There is a pretty long thread on the Gun cleaning forum about Wipeout.

Many years ago I read a comparison study on all the cleaners and preservatives.

Not DRs but other guns - Wipeout is my go to cleaner now. But Like New Guy said - the layering of copper & carbon used to confuse the heck out of me until I figured it out. Now I always use carburetor cleaner to remove the carbon & it works great. The patch comes out brown.

I use Breakfree CLP for storage & have never had any rust issues.

The earlier mentioned test showed Eezox to be the best for rust prevention even in salt spray conditions.