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Have I Ruined My Barrel?
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I have a Ruger M77 in .284 Win that I bought when they first came out in '69 or '70. It's only had a couple hundred rounds through it. I never worried too much about copper fouling because Jack O'Conner wrote somewhere that you needn't. I would clean it after I fired it with powder solvent and a patch, however. Recently I've read that copper fouling is a serious problem and if you can see evidence at the muzzle end it's much worse near the chamber. Well I looked down my muzzle with a light and scared myself. I went out and bought some Hoppes Benchrest no.9 and went to work. After endless sessions still showing color on the patches I decided to get an Outers Foul Out. I hooked it up and checked hourly and it ran 12 hours 'til the clean light started flickering. Solution still bright blue. Small amount of copper on the rod, still lots in the barrel. I drain the solution, clean the rod, brush the barrel with some powder solvent, degrease and hook it up again. Hourly checks all morning with the cleaning light showing brightly, solution still blue, so I go out to cut a Christmas tree. Come back four hours later and the clean light is on. I drain the solution and to my horror it is rusty brown! The rod has some copper patches on it but also a dark grey film and evidence of about a quarter inch of black deposit at the chamber end. I clean the barrel with a brush and patches and get out a lot of black junk.

Is that black crud my nice barrel that was eaten away? Have I ruined it?

 
Posts: 53 | Location: Olympia, WA, USA | Registered: 18 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Allan,
The Foul Out works by reverse plating the rod with the jacket fouling that was in your bore. If you have rust in your barrel, that too will be deposited on the rod.

However, it will not erode your barrel. The black crud may be powder fouling, or one of your o-rings may have deteriorated.

Contact Outers directly and ask their Technical Assistance staff for help.

George

------------------
Shoot straight, shoot often, but by all means, use enough gun!

 
Posts: 14623 | Location: San Antonio, TX | Registered: 22 May 2001Reply With Quote
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When you use the foul out machine it will remove fouling a layer at a time. If there are layers of fouling you must brush out all of the carbon based fouling to expose the next layer of copper fouling. I don't believe the solution does anything to carbon based fouling. I had to clean a very neglected 30-30 with one and changed the solution many times. It is very important to have everything degreased properly. Wear rubber gloves when handling the rod sections and follow the directions to a "T". As for the discoloration you may just be cutting through years of fouling. That 30-30 had some funny colored solution a time or two if I remember correctly. It did eventually come back to squeaky clean though. You may want to try some JB between sessions. Good luck
 
Posts: 627 | Location: Niceville, Florida | Registered: 12 April 2001Reply With Quote
<Gary Rihn>
posted
Allan-

I think the other guys here are right. You're probably OK. It's hard to diagnose a situation like this long distance & sight unseen, but I'd tend to think you're alright.

Run a fairly snug patch down the bore. See if the bore feels "rough", or if it "snags" the patch at all.

Sounds like a sweet little rifle. An older Ruger in a great caliber.

Let us know how it turns out.

 
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<Gary Rihn>
posted
PS-

I notice the "1 post" by your name. Welcome to the forum!

 
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<whales>
posted
Allen
It took me almost a week of steady cleaning with my outers bore cleaner to clean a 243 that the previous owner sold to me as a junk gun. Now I look for these gifts. I think the black stuff is the plug melting alittle, just wipe it with a rag each time you change solution.

Good luck
Whales

 
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Fellas- I thought these foulouts were supposed to be the cats a--. A week to clean a bore?

Go out in your garage and get the rubbing coupound. Wrap some tough cloth on a worn out brush, coat and scrub following the rifling. Do a couple times with fresh materials. Use chrome polish next. 1/2 hr max.

You can clean a bore whistle in less than five minutes mechanically. Anybody know how?

 
Posts: 1529 | Location: Central Wisconsin | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Perhaps this will be interpreted as a sin, however I bought a junk 30-30 a few years back with probably the worst bore I've ever seen. Anyhow, nothing seemed to remove whatever was in the bore, so I put on a .45 caliber bore brush on a cleaning rod and chucked the rod in my drill. I ran the drill on low speed and pushed the brush soaked with bore cleaner in and out the full length of the barrel from the muzzle and breech end while running a patched jag inbetween each session. Bore very clean and shoots much better. Be very careful not to damage the barrel crown. I only use this on hopeless case bores.
 
Posts: 425 | Location: Minnesota, USA | Registered: 01 April 2001Reply With Quote
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I think the black crap is powder fouling busting loose as the copper is stripped away. It just settles on the bore plug.
alladin.....It isn't a magic machine, just a slightly different means to an end. There are always several "right" ways to do anything, it just depends on who you talk to. I'm sure some of the old school guys can do it just as well, although differently.............C
 
Posts: 627 | Location: Niceville, Florida | Registered: 12 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Big_R: Your right ON! Cept cut to the chase. Use JB and a new brush-- won't hurt a thing and all the stuff is out right now. Put an mt in the chamber to keep that clean.

Sorry- but these foulouts are 'economy' tools. As in good for the economy-- money is moving and people are working making them. Otherwise there a newbie's joke.

 
Posts: 1529 | Location: Central Wisconsin | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
<whales>
posted
Aladin
We are talking about BAD barrels and no work to get a shooter. Save your JB for good guns.

[This message has been edited by whales (edited 12-19-2001).]

 
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whales: I disagree. Many, many good barrels are just caked up. Using a power drill to spin the rod and brush won't hurt a thing with JB and is much faster than all this filling, chging soliution etc from the 'newbie fleecer'.
 
Posts: 1529 | Location: Central Wisconsin | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Well, a diversity of opinions, which is okay. At least there seems to be a concensus that I didn't hurt my barrel - a relief. I've grown very fond of this rifle over the years. I think I'll continue to use the least aggressive method that will get the job done.

By the way, what's JB? And an "mt"? Empty cartridge?

 
Posts: 53 | Location: Olympia, WA, USA | Registered: 18 November 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Allan D:
Well, a diversity of opinions, which is okay. At least there seems to be a concensus that I didn't hurt my barrel - a relief. I've grown very fond of this rifle over the years. I think I'll continue to use the least aggressive method that will get the job done.

By the way, what's JB? And an "mt"? Empty cartridge?


JB bore paste. Right on for the mt-- keeps the junk out of your chamber.

Correct me if I'm wrong-- but if the electrode from the newbie fleecer contacts the barrel metal it can cause damage- right?

 
Posts: 1529 | Location: Central Wisconsin | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
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I like Sweets 7.62 a lot for copper. I've always been afraid of using an abrasive like JB bore paste. Are you all sure JB won't take steel off?
 
Posts: 3691 | Location: West Virginia | Registered: 23 May 2001Reply With Quote
<Gary Rihn>
posted
quote:
Originally posted by HenryC470:
I like Sweets 7.62 a lot for copper. I've always been afraid of using an abrasive like JB bore paste. Are you all sure JB won't take steel off?

I look at it this way... are you sure that Sweet's won't *eat* the metal?

(Not meant as an argument, simply a way of saying different guys believe different things, and swear against others. Myself, I've run both of them down my barrels & have seen no ill effect).

 
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<broj>
posted
Not a problem, most any used gun you buy will have loads of copper.
I use Sweets 762--- So, here is procedure.
Use a bronze brush and swab the sweets in good , give it 4or5 passes and get it soaked.
Then soak a Q-tip in Sweets and use it as a plug in the muzzle. That keeps the ammonia vapors captive and working. Wait 10 min and get the patches moving to get the Sweets out.
Then I use Hoppe's 9 and brush it 4-5 times and dry patch again. Use a light and check down the muzzle for copper. Repeat as necessary till bore looks great. Your patchs will probably not come clean ,cause your taking a little off the brushes. Might try it with Nylon brush on the final swabbing.
If the barrel is rough, I smooth it out with 25 passes of Rem-Clean on a tight patch.
OK- so now the whole world knows the secret,how will I ever rescue any more guns that get sold cause they quit shootin'.
Good luck , if the crown is good and you follow the 3B's. Barrels,bedding and bullets it should shoot reasonable, even if it is a Ruger. You may thank me in public.

------------------
broj

 
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<JoeM>
posted
Hello,
Well where I work we do electrocleaning for out plating tanks on just a much larger scale.

As to the question of if the electrode contacts the bore, Well..Should that happen, you have a MUCH better chance of ruining your machine than hurting the bore. Ever touch the positive to the negative of a car battery when you were working on it. Well all those little sparks are happening in you machine when that happens.

I had a moron employee do this across the output of a 12 volt, 16000 amp rectifier. You could hear the blast clear across the plant. and when the breaker tripped, a 200 amp, 3 phase 480, it tripped so hard that it ruined the breaker.

------------------
Safety & Ethics,Accuracy, Velocity, Energy
Joe M

 
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Aladin, the foul outs are a very effective no effort way to clean a bore. He was talking about a rifle that had not been properly cleaned since 1969. You will not clean that in 1/2 hour. And BTW, your polishing compound can run the bore at the muzzle. That is one of the reasons that a good gunsmith will handlap a barrel and then cut off an inch on each end.

Best to keep an open mind. As previously mentioned, there are different ways to skin a cat. This particular cat happened to be lying around for 32 years and every method will be time consuming. And no the anode (rod) is not in contact with the bore. It has rubber doughnuts that keep it from touching. If it does touch the system shorts out and nothing happens. Most trips to the range results in approximately 5 minutes of cleaning to a perfectly clean bore.

The worst thing I have seen from a foul out is that the electrolyte will remove the bluing at the muzzle.

 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Customstox: no intention of being argumentative on this end, but you've something to learn. The JB like substances are on the order of 1200-1500 grit and can't hurt anything. Granted ten minutes of hard rubbing every shooting session would do something- and that's make the bore too smooth.

The humor I find in this yuppie toy is the need to chg out cleaner several times and wait days or a week to do the job. The foulest bore can be cleaned in less than five minutes- and most likely do that bore some good. A bore that fouls to that extent needs polishing out- and even maybe a good lapping. And you don't have to sweat either.

Thing is- the situation of a truly fouled bore neglected from cleaning is a seldom event- why spend the bucks for a one time shot? There's easier, faster, more effective means. Point is- you don't have to spend the money on this contraption to do the job.

 
Posts: 1529 | Location: Central Wisconsin | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
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aladin....you're off-base with respect to customstox comment about the crown. Maintaining a well-cut crown is absolutely critical to any kind of accuracy and if you read anything about how those "mavens of accuracy" ...the benchrest crowd......treat their crowns when cleaning you would change your mind. Hell even your bronze brush, if not used properly, will change your crown.
 
Posts: 4360 | Location: Sunny Southern California | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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DB Bill: So now we're jumping from a neglected gun to a benchrest one-holer? What a brush will do a crown if used correctly isn't anything you'd ever see on a target. And now ever method used by some benchers necessarily means anything on paper either. It ain't the brush around the crown either- it's the drag back of the rod and any grit on it's surface.
 
Posts: 1529 | Location: Central Wisconsin | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Aladin, fortunately for me, I have learned it and you have yet to. You said get out the polishing compound and use it in your bore. You can and likely will ruin your barrel, end of discussion. Cleaning with a foul out is not a half day process it is minutes of my time. I have done it both ways and am speaking from experience. You seem to be relying on justifying your position.

I have a good friend who told me he could get his rifles perfectly clean without it. After his efforts, I put his rifle on the foul out for 15 minutes and found copper on the rod. Several hours later there was a lot more. He was convinced but he was open to some input.

Ruining a muzzle will destroy a hunting rifle just as it will a bench rest rifle.

You are more than welcome to the hand labor of cleaning rifles. I have better things to do.

 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Thank goodness there are some open minds out there. Aladin, you should try something new. New does not mean newbie fleecer or yuppie toy. Was the variable scope a newbie fleecer, how about laminate and composite stocks? Cordura v. leather? Wool v. polypro? The gentleman asked if his bore was ruined, not if he was spending his money according to your wishes. Most new products are developed for a niche market. There are very few cure all's. The great part of our sport is that it is a wonderful mix of tradition and technology, supposedly without pretense. There are a great number of wise and experienced people on this forum, take their advice. I don't post often, I chose to learn from those who have been there. I respect their OPINIONS and make up my own mind. Db Bill, Customstox, Ray.Atkinson, G. Rihn, J. Ricks, and many, many others have been a great help. My Foul Out machine sits next to my JB paste, right next to the Shooters Choice, Barnes, and Hoppes. It will soon be joined by some Butch's, whatever. The point is, a torch is a tool but you wouldn't necessarily build a house with one. There is a job for every tool and a tool for every job. The guys on this site are the best on the web and will help if they are not alienated. Open up your mind my friend, and lay off the smart comments about how a man spends his money.

Yes, I am wearing Nomex.

[This message has been edited by Carnivore (edited 12-26-2001).]

 
Posts: 627 | Location: Niceville, Florida | Registered: 12 April 2001Reply With Quote
<Gary Rihn>
posted
aladin-

You're over your head getting into an argument with a couple of these guys. One of them makes a living with guns. You don't survive long in the business if you're a hack. With all due respect to Carnivore (and I do appreciate making your list ), the two guys you are arguing with leave me way down the list. They've both proven themselves.

If you don't like the Foul-Out, don't use it. Like I said above, I've used JB & will continue to (when needed), but I also know that used improperly, it is a barrel killer.

[This message has been edited by Gary Rihn (edited 12-27-2001).]

 
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I simply get a chuckle out of tool-idis. That's all. If another one trips your triggers- fine. Good for the economy.

For the "way above" comment- another good chuckle. Thanks. Sounds like a wanger squirting contest- be sure to take accurate height measurements. Post as needed.

My point- minus my original sarcasism it this. You guys that don't know yet the difference- this tool is just another toy. Sure it works- but why bother? By the time you do all the messing around the job can be done with the usual methods. If the bore is so rough as to foul out to that extent, some polishing by an agent like JB can help that problem quite abit. Sure you could harm a bore with JB- but it'd take some real professional foolishness. Same can be said of the foulout, a brush, a cleaning rod, or shooting the gun too rapidly.

 
Posts: 1529 | Location: Central Wisconsin | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
<Reloader66>
posted
Had your rifle been properly broken in and kept clean from day one you would not be trying all these cleaning methods. If you use a quality copper solvent like Tetra copper solve you do not need a bronze bore brush to clean the bore. All you will end up doing is ruin the crown of your rifle and it will not group worth two cents until you have it recrowned. I would never use a drill motor with a bronze bore brush to clean your rifle bore. Your bore does not need to be 100% copper free to shoot well and give you good service. The name of the game is keep the bore clean enough to shoot good groups. You should step back and regroup, digest and think what is the most logical thing to do. I only wish I had your rfile here in my reloading room to fix your dirty bore problem with ease. To many shooters over use the bore brush to clean their rifle bore.
 
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