For you people that know please inform me.

Looking to build a 22-250AI shooting either 55gr BT's or 60gr. Partition bullets.

What action would you use.

Whose barrel and what kind of life can I expect for this round, I like to load'em warm.

What twist rate

and anything else you deem neccesary.

Also, most factory rifles offer a 1-14" twist is this correct for the bullet I plan on shooting and if so would it be better to but say a 700VS or the Weatherby super predator and just be done with it, without the wait. I know that I would have to have it reamed to the A.I.. How accurate are the factory rifles in these smaller calibers, this will be my first high powered 22 and I would like to get it right the first time.

And agin by looking at the classified ads on this site and many others there are quite a few 22-250's out there that could be picked up for a good price.

Thank you,

Wayne

Wayne...if this is going to be your first "hot" .22 I would just go ahead with a standard .22/250 in a factory gun until you learn to load for these hot-rockets...the Ackley-Improved .22/250 can be a real barrel-burner unless you are very careful not to let the barrel get too hot which can happen very easily. Case in point...I had a friend take his custom .22/250 with less than a50 rounds thru it on a prarie dog shoot this past summer. When he left he could put 5 into less than 1/2" all day at 100 yards. After a 4-day session shooting PDs he had to replace the barrel...only about 800 additional rounds but he let it get too hot.

If you get the factory rifle you can get the action trued and a new barrel put on and you will have brass available for reloading. Oh about rate-of-twist...if you are going to shoot PDs I like a 1:12 twist rather than 1"14.

My thought would be to use a Remington action,it is the easiest to work with and to get triggers or stocks for. Douglas or Hart or Shilen barrel.Tubb lug or Holland. Have the action Blue printed. New brass, Norma is my choice. Redding dies. Ask a manufacture about correct twist, call Sierra or e-mail. Get a good gunsmith or do it yourself, if you are a tool and die maker or machinist. I get my reamers from Dave Manson. ( www.mansonreamers.com ) He also has a kit you can buy that will allow you to true up your action(blue printing) with a small amount of tools and effort. I hope this isn't to much info...Mark

One more little thing... If you haven't done a wildcat before you may be displeased with what you have done. It is my understanding that things can go wrong vary easy. We have a lot of profound minds on this site. Look at some of the other wildcats that have been brought up. E-mail Ray Atkinson I'll bet he has done one or two. Mark PS. My Ruger 77v is in .22-250 and she shoots great.

[This message has been edited by Sparticus (edited 12-19-2001).]

So far so good anymore idea's.

I currently load for a 7STW and a .280Rem and 6/284. I understand about letting it cool between shots and mostly this gun will not be shot a lot at one time. I was concerned if this was an overbore situation, because I really want a 22-284 but was told they are really a barrel eater, and besides anyone can have a plain old 250. I do appreciate the response and words of wisdom/caution. I like to be different.

If I can pick up a used gun in like new condition (700) and have someone ream it for me and do some small smith work (trigger, truing, misc.) I hope to get out for $800 without scope. And maybe if Santa see's to it maybe a barrel.

OR if someone outthere has one they would like to get rid of. I have a SSK T/C Encore by J.D. Jones in 6/284, shot about 40-50 times, brass already formed, complete set(forming) of Redding dies including comp. seating. aprox $1700 invested. Has the T'SOB moounts with scope. Nosler BT's 55gr and 95gr. 95 will shoot 2900fps out of 15in Shilen barrel and I can put 3 under 1" @ 100 and somebody that knows what there doing would be dangerous.

Anyway how bout a trade, think about it.

Thanks,

Wayne

[This message has been edited by Montana (edited 12-19-2001).]

Montana, It depends what you realy want. My first serious varmint rifle was a Remington VSSF factory rifle in 220 swift 1 in 14 twist. I still have it and after almost 3000 rounds it still shoots very close to .5 moa. 1 in 14 will definitly handle 55gr but will be touch and go for 60gr but you never know. The swift will do everything a 22-250 AI will; dies are cheaper, no fireforming, reasonably accurate cartrage, barrel life contrary to some is good with common sense loads. Most of all if you go with a factory rifle you will have the rifle immeadiately and the platform to build a very nice semi custom on in the future if the desire arises.

The following is how I built my 22-250AI:

Rem700 action trued
Shilen #17 contour barrel finished out at 25+ inches with a 1-9 twist so I could shoot heavy bullets. I will shoot anything from 50 grain to 80 grain, although the 80's are sorta iffy.
Tubbs recoil lug
Pillar bedded the stock
Kepplinger set trigger

Works for me.

Pecos

Wayne,

I can't help with the AI, but for sure my heavy barrelled Tikka doesn't like 60gn bullets with a 14 inch twist.

Don't take this a advice because it's nothing more than a wish list, but if Santa gave me a choice, I'd go for Hart or Shilen heavy barrel with a 12 inch twist, A Jewell or an other match grade trigger, a nice synthetic stock (I'm all wood at the minute) and I'd want the pros and cons before saying "AI" please.

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tikka 3 barrels

Oh yes, being in the UK where such things are legal, I'd have it built with, and develop loads specifically for, a moderator.

Single shot would do, 3 or 5 mag is plenty for 99% of my shooting (the moderator would be for the other 1%), fully accurised, bedded, bells and whistles .

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tikka 3 barrels

I've built two of them. One in fact on the Jap Weatherby VarmintMaster.

It is a very good cartridge,but I prefer the 223Ackley,as an all arounder.

I built the other on a S/S Ruger MK II,as a Wolf Rifle. It is a 1-14" twist Shilen,26" long in #4 contour and fluted. I made it for rough duty and she excells at it.

55's are my favorite,in this cartridge but that is just my opinion.

I built the Weatherby,because the regular 22-250 started to bore me,I have no regrets. I've no regrets on the Ruger and it is the more accurate of the two.

Most all of my rifles are built on 700's and I prefer them. But there are no flies,on either of these rifles. You'd have to have a seizure,to print a group over .5MOA.

I prefer the Rem700,high end S/S barrels and McMillan stocks,for my most serious of toys. It is a recipe that has always worked,with no fuss.

I've built two 22CHeetah Mach One's also. I prefer the 22-250AI,to that design.

For high volume shooting,I'd prefer the 223Ackley(40's at 4000fps,in a 23" barrel). For a designated long range bomber,I'd prefer the 243AI.

Lots of options,weigh them all,before you dive in. Then you'll know your decision,is best for you.

The 22-250AI is a great cartridge and no more of a barrel burner than a 220 swift. I have built one myself on a VZ24 Mauser action with a shilen chrome moly barrel that shoots in the .2-.3's. It has about 1100 rounds through it. The trick to long barrel life is to never overheat the barrel.
If I were you, I'd start with a trued Rem 700 action, a tubb or holland recoil lug, a Shilen or Douglas SS barrel in 1:12 twist and have a good gunsmith who knows how to properly headspace a AI cartridge do the work for you. Properly headspaced ( I like the bolt to close on a loaded round with slight resistance-known as zero headspace) you can shoot factory 22-250's into <1 inch groups and then use the fireformed cases to load the 22-250AI rounds.
My favorite load uses H414 and 55gr Ballistic tips or 53 gr Sierra HPBT's with IMR4064.
This is a terrific round that will actually outperform the swift with none of the swifts brass flow/case trimming problems. Go for it!
If you want more details E-Mail me! Good luck-Rob