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I have an old Remington .22 rimfire Matchmaster 513T that I would like to give to a friend's son but the bolt handle is broken off. Anybody have an idea where I might locate a replacement bolt? All sorts of 513 parts on eBay but no bolts. Kid's mother finally relented when I explained that when not in use his father can take out the bolt and keep it in a safe place! Many thanks Oxon | ||
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If you still have the handle, any competent smit can weld it back on the bolt. Or, if push comes to shove, he could even make one for you. Aim for the exit hole | |||
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There is a guy on Gunbroker auctions that sells a lot of 513 parts. You might also try GunParts.com. You can always have a gunsmith make a new handle and tig weld it to the original bolt. | |||
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Unfortunately I no longer have the handle. Thanks for suggestion re gunbroker guy - I will contact him. Oxon | |||
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You might want to try Numrich Gun Parts Corp. | |||
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Thank you. They had the part but are out of stock so I'm on their wait-list! appreciate your help! Oxon | |||
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I might be wrong but is the bolt not the same as the CBC Model 122 that I have? I recently bought the bolt body from them. | |||
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I have no idea if this will help, but it is barely possible that it might... 6 or 7 years ago the CMP was selling many 513-T rifles. Many were reconditioned, and almost all had been disassembled and cleaned. A few were repaired as well. They were all sold from stocks in military storage for many years. CMP (and DCM, its forerunner) often sold parts if and when they had any on hand. You might try calling them and asking them to check to see if they have any 513 bolts in a corner somewhere. Sometimes you get a person on the other end of the line who will go the extra mile to help another shooter. My country gal's just a moonshiner's daughter, but I love her still. | |||
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How much of the original bolt do you still have? TomP Our country, right or wrong. When right, to be kept right, when wrong to be put right. Carl Schurz (1829 - 1906) | |||
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The whole thing except for the handle which broke off and I no longer have (or most likely do have but just can't find it) Oxon | |||
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If you have the whole thing except the handle, then why not just get someone to silver solder, braze, weld, or even soft solder a piece of metal to the bolt body, to serve as a handle? It won't be a critical job on a .22LR like that. May not look just right, but at least it will make the rifle work. and the piece of metal welded on can always be filed to an attractive shape either before or after attaching it to the bolt body. It also won't require a super strong bond between the handle and the bolt body, as you are not likely to fire any .22 LR cartridges in it which will require great strength after firing to get the bolt to open. Sure, that IS a mickey-mouse way to make the rifle function for now, but it will give something that is still fun to use, until a proper new bolt or handle can be found. And just about any experienced metal bonding craftsman ( local "fix-it" shop, welder, gunsmith, appliance repairman, whatever) can probably do it for you, cheaply. (It will be more touchy and require more care if the bolt handle root serves as the locking lug on that model, but it is still easily doable. It is just that if it serves as the locking lug as well as a handle, you should probably have the local gunsmith do it...he will understand where it needs to be attached to the bolt body to assure correct headspace when the bolt locks closed.) | |||
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Thak you - I had thought of doing this myself since I can braze as well as soft-solder but have no idea what the temper of the part is and don't want to wind up annealing it. I am giving the gun to a friend's young son and I will speak with him (friend, not son) and if he wants to take a chance on softening the locking lug I'll fabricate a handle and braze it on. Oxon | |||
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If you know how to disassemble and reassemble the bolt, then you might want to remove the"innards" and put some wet packing in there before brazing/soldering the handle on. Brownells also sells a "heat stop" liquid/paste which you paint on the exterior to keep heat from flowing beyond where you want it. I don't know how it works, but it does. If you "tack" the handle on with a "spot" weld, that should hold without spreading heat to a lug also. It wouldn't likely be strong enough for a high pressure centerfire rifle, but it should work okay for a .22 rimfire. All will likely be a bit fugly, but should work fine as a temporary fix...maybe temporarily for many years. Good luck with however you go about it. Just remember it is like carpentry where you measure twice and cut once. Here you'll want to observe your setup three times, think twice, and braze once. My country gal's just a moonshiner's daughter, but I love her still. | |||
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Thanks, Alberta - the bolt assembly is complex but I have a schematic. the handle is part of a relatively small part of the overall assembly but that piece never seems to come up for sale anymore. The whole bolt assembly is about $140 which is mmore than I want to put into the gun for the young lad. His father might, however. Anyway, the brazing might be the way to go and I thank you for the suggestion. Oxon | |||
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The bolt is mostly the same as what came on a 510/511/512 series rifle. The piece you are missing is cosmetically different but functionally the same. You can revive the rifle with one of these parts and wait for an opportune time to buy the correct part. This is not the case for the bolt bodies, I have one that will function in one rifle but misfires in others. I think we have four of the 5xx-series rifles and take the bolts apart for cleaning now and then. TomP Our country, right or wrong. When right, to be kept right, when wrong to be put right. Carl Schurz (1829 - 1906) | |||
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Thanks- that info opens more options. Oxon | |||
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Watch the headspace; it's regulated by the fit of the bolt sleeve in the receiver as there are no lugs in the front of the bolt. This would be a consideration no matter where the new part came from. TomP Our country, right or wrong. When right, to be kept right, when wrong to be put right. Carl Schurz (1829 - 1906) | |||
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pm sent thanks elton | |||
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Will these work. Im posting these to have someone make sure these are 500 series parts. These are new old stock, never installed Oxon gets first shot at these. If he doesn't want them their for sale. thanks elton | |||
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Those are 500-series parts and should work. The ones I've seen that were made for the 513T had more of a spherical knob on the end of the bolt handle, these are the sort-of elliptical ones that I've seen on the 510/511/512 Targetmasters. I'd post pictures of the ones I have, but I don't know how to do it (I haven't learned how to use photobucket or any of the other ones). I try to measure headspace by measuring with calipers between the bolt face and the back of the bolt shroud on a 500-series bolt. If the receiver surface is worn where the bolt locks up, that will add to the headspace. So far, nothing bad has happened, maybe a real gunsmith will add something to this discussion (I am only a hobby machinist, myself). Look close at the bottom of the bolt for cracks where the bolt rides on the receiver; they sometimes break there or become worn and then get stuck in the receiver when opening the bolt. A little twist of the bolt body with padded pliers might get it unstuck. I have a 511 here that was so much stuck that its owner broke the handle off the bolt shroud trying to get it back out. A newer bolt body fixed it. TomP Our country, right or wrong. When right, to be kept right, when wrong to be put right. Carl Schurz (1829 - 1906) | |||
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