Hi all, I am new to reloading. Always shot factory ammo. But I started shooting praire dogs and was not happy with my shot groups.
I have my Rugger heavy bareled gun shooting 1" groups at 200 yds, But I have a m77 standard bareled and the best group I can get at 200 yds is about 2". At 100 yds it will group with all holes conecting. I have tried several powders. The best for both guns seem's to be H380. Both guns are 22-250. Is this about the best I should expect out of this small bareled gun?
I am shooting 50 grn balistic tips in both guns. Thanks for helping a new loader.
Prtsman13

IMHO: Just depends on how much $$$ in reloading components you want to throw at it. I suspect it will do slightly better, but you may not find out until you throw several hundred rounds down the tube. I think I'd be content with 1 MOA in a sporter weight.

Hank

THE thing to do when seeking accuracy from a varmint rifle is first choosing the right rifle.

You did good getting a Ruger but some Rugers run better than others.... some not good at all...

The next thing is absolutely verifying that the particular rifle is tuned correctly (consistant tension on the action screws, proper bedding in the stock, etc...)

Choosing the correct bullet is next down the list.

Now I honestly can't fault your choosing a Nosler Ballistic Tip. they seem to be as good as things get in varmint bullets, but having said that I also have to comment that some barrels just don't like them...

that's the thing finding what the RIFLE likesRather than what you like...

I will say that if your 22-250 has a 1:14" twist your rifle might be happier with a flatbase 50gr bullet rather than a boattail like a Nosler.

Another possible thing is that I've seen "buggered" crowns on enough factory rifles that I bought a crown cutter and a set of pilots.

The best way to tell if the crown is "right"? look at the "star"
of fouling residue on the muzzle and look to see that it's even on all the lands and grooves.

My thought on a varmint rifle is that if I don't actually move my point of aim so that the single hole I'm making at 100yards gets noticably bigger with each subsequent shot, it should be difficult for me to tell that the bullets aren't disappearing int an alternate universe on the way to the target OR In Other Words, my 223Rem makes 3/8" groups with boring regularity and the difference between a .224 hole and an oblong 224hole is real difficult to distinguish even through a 20X scope.

Your rifle SHOULD be doing better.
and if you've "tried every powder" then I'll suggest trying a different bullet.

my next bullet is a 40gr V-max, the place where I shoot my groundhogs belongs to a farmer who has expressed a preference for me (and anyone else who shoots chucks) to NOT use the Noslers because the solid base IS a richochet hazard.
and he doesn't want to be picking pieces of bullet base out of any of his breeding beef.


AD

I would try a different bullet in the 2" grouper, just as Allan alluded to. I would move to a Sierra 50 grain or a Sierra 52 grain Matchking HP. The longer Nosler may not be stabilizing as well in the sporter barreled rifle or it just may not like it.
Good luck on yours. H380 is a great choice for the 22/250.

Thank you for all your help. What I am loading in them now is the Sierra Bitzking in a 50 grain. With 38.7 grn of H380. In the standard bareled gun. I will pick up some flatbase bullets, and try that.
Thanks again.
Prtsman13