Every now and then I run a saturated bronze brush, then two saturated patches, followed by three or four dry.

Reading up, I've discovered that I should run a saturated swab on and "eye" and let the bore sit for five minutes so the solvent can disolve the copper.

I did this several times. Followed by a saturated bronze brush, saturated patches on a jag and more dry patches.

The first saturated patch after the brush scrubbing comes out black/green. Three dry patches and the third comes out pretty clean.

But then if I run a swab, let the bore sit, and run more patches, they come out black/green again.

How clean can it get? When is it clean enough? I feel like maybe the bore is clogged with copper that I can't see and it's wearing out the barrel, affecting accuracy.

------------------
PowderBurns Black Powder / Muzzle Loading Forum:

www.hotboards.com/plus/plus.mirage?who=powderburns

Clean to me- in regards to fouling is a pass of 32% ammonia water and no color. That's the highest concentration of ammonia water can hold- and it literally eats jacket material- NOW. I don't use this on stainless barrels- and leave in a chrome steel barrel less than 15 minutes. Then I push a small white toweling into the muzzle an inch and shine a light on it. Monitor the appearance of the steel, for carbon fouling still can adhere to the walls appearing as a black substance. That needs a good brush scrub. I thus clean mine down to the steel- and try to keep them almost that clean.

I never fail to be amazed how fouling clings to the bore. I'm trying to remove the coppering so I can apply Tetra Gun lubrication which is supposed to bond with the surface of the bore and provide a more closed surface that resists coppering.

------------------
PowderBurns Black Powder / Muzzle Loading Forum:

www.hotboards.com/plus/plus.mirage?who=powderburns

Don

I clean with patches only one way: from breech to muzzle until bore is reasonably free of residue. Of course with lots of shots I will use a bronce brush at this stage.

Then I use a patch soaking wet with Hoppe�s #9 and use it back and forth several passes.

I have the gun on MTM�s rifle rest for this with the muzzle down.

Let sit until next day. Use dry patch to get blue out. Use fresh patch soaked to refresh solvent. Let sit until next day.

...

You�ll wonder how long it takes to really have no blue on patch. Good reason to visit Your gun room once a day to say hello to friends.

No mistakes possible: wipe rod every time and I do not use brushes at this stage.

I prefer Hoppe�s #9, because it may sit in the bore and is also a ( slight ) rust preventative.

Don�t use any solvent which says: "do not leave in bore for extended time ... "

I�ve tried some " Copper Cutters" "Benchrest" and the like. They work, but You are not advised to let them sit in bore. Try it: after cleaning with one of these try my method. You�ll wonder!

Of course if You go hunting in between, You should dry bore, wipe with oil and redry. Later proceed my method.

Or MUCH better: as one gun is cleaned take one of several others ( old Annie has to get some fresh air ) all in comparable caliber group: So You can proof to Your lady it�s ABSOLUTELY necessary You own all those guns! :-))

Good Shooting and have a clean bore! H

quote:

---

Originally posted by aHunter:
I prefer Hoppe�s #9, because it may sit in the bore and is also a ( slight ) rust preventative.

---

I prefer it cause it just smells so darn good! Aaaahhh, the memories that come back from smelling the old Hoppe's...