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I've had an itch for a long time for a 220 Swift, and I'm thinking about satisfying it with this year's tax refund. Anyone have experience with this round in the #1 rifle? Varmint or standard version? Thanks! | ||
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One of Us |
Before you buy the gun look around and see what it costs to have someone accurize it. The Ruger #1 is warranted to shoot 3" groups from the factory. It might shoot better and some shoot very well but mine didn't and I shelled out to have someone fix it as Ruger wouldn't. IMO they're one of the prettiest guns ever made. That said there's no Ruger long guns in this house and will never be. /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill | |||
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There are plenty of articles on accurizing the #1 without throwing ayaw cash. Depending on what accuracy you are looking for. If you want a bench rest quality gun ...well...BUT if MOA or a bit better suits your needs then you will be perfectly happy with the #1 Here are my Swifts I am one gun away from being happy | |||
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One of Us |
Had one in .220 swift. Spent 3 months trying to get it to shoot. It shot almost anyting at 1.5 MOA but nothing better than that. Sold it and won't buy another. | |||
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it wouldn't let me edit but that last post shopuld read it would shoot some loads at 1.5 moa but nothing any better than that.. Ricky | |||
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i have an old #1v in swift that held to about 3/4 minute. I shot that barrel out and replaced it with a new shielen, now it holds at about 1/2 minute. One of my other swifts is a ruger 77 - the first HB varmiters out when then had blued steel receivers and stainless barrels. this one was a super suprise and holds 1" at 300. That is probably my best swift. I tried rebarreling a browning hiwall, but didn't get the accuracy out of it like i did out of the #1 | |||
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I've heard that the early M77s had excellent barrels. I don't know how I would find one of that vintage online and be confident the barrel wasn't burned. I'm pondering what to do. I've done plenty of tinkering with load development, trigger work, glass bedding and on and on over the decades. I have a M77 that will shoot well under .5 MOA, but I've owned that rifle since I was 16, and I had it bedded, lapped, trued and,\ Lilja barrel installed on it (gratis but for the cost of the barrel) by my gunsmith brother. I don't want to burden the brother with this project. I love the look and feel of the #1, but what I'm really hoping for is a nice 220 that will shoot well (say, 1/2MOA or better) out of the box with no rebed and minimal load development. I know that #1's in the past were erratic in that regard, but I'm wondering if recent production is more consistent. Failing that I may just go cheap and get a Savage, or take a real plunge on a Cooper. Thanks for any and all feedback. | |||
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I have a #1v in .220 swift and it shoots 3/4 groups as it came from the factory | |||
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My hunting buddy had a #1 heavy varmint in a 22-250 and after about $600 trying to get it to group rather than pattern he gave up and bought a Remington VSSF was amazed at how the Remington shot after a little work with the screwdriver on the trigger. He calls the #1 his $1,500 tuition. | |||
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I've got a No. 1V that I tuned up with a trigger job and a pressure point on the forend. It's a beautiful rifle. Shoots at 1/2 MOA. I load a Sierra 55gr BT over 37.5 gr of IMR 4064 in Winchester cases using the Winchester WLR primer. | |||
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My comments apply to #1 in general and not the 220 specifically.The first thing you may find is that bedding on these very attractive rifles is an ever changing thing. You may find a 1/2 MOA load and think you have the thing figured out and six months later be scratching that thing you rest your hat on. Another issue is that the scope is mounted on the barrel. Maybe something,maybe nothing but you think about it after the barrel starts to heat. | |||
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Fireform: I have an early 77 in 220 Swift. Right now it is the most accurate rifle I own. It will place 3 shots in one hole just about every time I shoot it on paper. I had Ruger rebarrel it in 1995, and this barrel is better than the 1970's vintage it wore until I shot it out. I love the Swift, and I like Rugers, in most cases. The load I have been shooting is 38/RL15/55 Ballistic tip @ 3800fps+. I have a gunsmith friend, who says when it comes to #1's shooting, it is all in the forearm. Good Luck Jerry NRA Benefactor Life Member | |||
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Fireform: I have a love/hate relationship with the Ruger #1's! I love their looks and the balance of them in the field but they are not always accurate enough for my tastes. I have several of them in my arsenal now though. Many years ago I decided when I got a new Ruger #1 that I would no longer chase accuracy with that gun! It either would show promise accuracy wise from day one or it was down the gunshow road! This philosophy has served me pretty well for quite some time now. I now have several BEAUTIFUL Ruger #1's in calibers 22 Hornet, 218 Bee, 22-250 Remington, 243 Winchester and 6mm Remington. I just last month sold a beautifully stocked Ruger #1-B in 7mm Remington Magnum for $75.00 more than I bought it for! I suggest you only buy Ruger #1's that have better than average (beautiful!) wood! This makes them VERY easy to resell - should the need be! And I recommend you shop carefully for the #1's as good buys can be found with patience. Another recommendation for you - do not modify the #1 in any way that can be detected readily without takedown. Again this recommendation is made with an eye for you getting most all of your investment back if the need should arise to sell it! I think I would go with the 26" Varmint weight barrel if I were to buy another Ruger #1 in 220 Swift. Good luck if you decide to go for it. Hold into the wind VarmintGuy | |||
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Thanks to everyone for the comments and advice--all very useful. I haven't made up my mind yet, but I have a better idea of how to do that. | |||
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