Last summer I bought a new Savage 12BVSS in .243 Win. I wanted a .260 Rem, but I got a great deal on this rifle and from the little bit I've shot it I really like it. I was looking at barrels and I can get a stainless Shilen .260 barrel for under $300. I was also thinking of buying a .22-250 barrel.
I just wondered how far off the scope will typically be after swapping barrels. For example, if I'm zeroed with the .243 barrel and record my turret settings, then swap to a different barrel, then later install the .243 barrel again and dial in the original settings...how much does point of impact generally change after swapping barrels?

Savages really aren't switch barrel guns per sae. You can change out barrels relatively easily but in order to do so the scope must be removed and the headspace has to be set each time.

There just really isn't any telling how far you POI might end up off after a bbl swap

I figured the scope had to be removed but I wasn't sure. I know the headspace has to be set every time, just didn't know how much the point of impact would shift. I don't expect to be switching back and forth all the time, just wanted to make my rifle a little more versatile in the long run.

I have a Savage 11F in 243 that has 3 A&B barrel that are pretty easy to swap on and off. I don't think that it is very practical to consider the Savage 11/110 as a switch-barrel rifle unless you have seperate scopes in QR mounts for each barrel. OTOH, if you wanted to have a pdog barrel in 22-250 that you would use for a couple of months and then swap to a barrel chambered for deer hunting cartridge and rezero the scope, that would work OK.

Jeff

Savages arent really switch barrel rifles per say???

This has to be one of the stupidest comments I have ever read!!!!
Savages are THE switchbarrel rifle if there ever was one, do a bit more research,lololol.
Cdog.

quote:

Savages arent really switch barrel rifles per say???

This has to be one of the stupidest comments I have ever read!!!!
Savages are THE switchbarrel rifle if there ever was one, do a bit more research,lololol.
Cdog.

What are you Retarded? Do you not realize that headspace must be established each time the barrel is disturbed. They aren't like a TC Encore where you just undo a couple screws or a Blaser where you flip a lever to change out barrels. The savage must have the scope removed, be taken out of it's stock clamped in a vice to be broken down. Hardly an operation you would preform in the field.

Savages are really easy to change barrels on yourself I've done several. But they are NOT a switch barrel rifle. Do a little research before you post your ignorant drivel next time

Pull your head out of your ass and realize this is what makes savages so common with the do it yourselfer, come in to the day, get a grip,lol!!!
Cdog.

quote:

Pull your head out of your ass and realize this is what makes savages so common with the do it yourselfer,

Hey fucktard! No SHIT SHERLOCK! Why in the fuck do you think I am building a Stevens 200 with a shilen select match barrel. What kind of earth shatteringly obvious revelations are you gonna post next?

But that still doesn't change the fact that a Switch barrel rifle is different than one that's merely easy to change tubes on.

h

quote:

Hey fucktard

quote:

Hey fucktard

Hey fucktard
I like that one!

It seems as I have excited a 12 year old, I guess it can happen on occassionswitchbarrel

quote:

You can have a one-barrel takedown gun for convenience, but you can't have a switch-barrel unless it's a takedown first.

read and learn if it doesn't make your head hurt too much

http://www.gunsandammomag.com/gun_columns/notes/two_0624/

Yup, i'ts a rifle for the sheeple, oh well.
Tomato, ToMato if you will.
I can still SWITCH the barrel on my savage, and have a more accurate rifle than a remington or a tc.

The truth is that all Savage and Stevens rifle barreles are NOT easy to swap out depending on how much Black Max they use at the factory.

I really got lucky this week end. All in all getting set up, swaping and head spaceing still took an hour, not counting the time it took to remove the stock. Does that fall into the definition of a quick change?

I only did it that fast cause I had help and also found my 5 pound sledge to hit the wrench with.

Fucktard seems a little harsh. Could another discriptive, more sadate term be applied? roger

Bartsche, I'll agree they use some nasty threadlock at the factory.
In my opinion, a savage barrel swap is as simple as tying your shoes. If this does not equal what others perceive as a switchbarrel, then where is the line drawn?
I guess my opinion is if you don't need a smith, i'ts a switchbarrel, of course if your abilities are above average then I guess there is no limit.
I hope we are all on the same team, and I also hope the thread starter continues with his savage as they are a very user freindly rig,
Cdog.

I have a Blaser R93. It makes barrel swapping a breeze. Plus you can leave a scope on each barrel already zeroed in.
I found the 2 times I brought bargain Savages to pull apart and change calibers they were too good to pull apart. I still use them in their original calibers.

Modified barrel nut wrench and 'through the action' wrenches make Savage barrel swaps sooooo much easier. I don't have to remove my scope.

And to answer your question, it depends. I have a 308 sporter barrel that is just a few clicks off from a 243 sporter barrel and yes, it is repeatable. Write the clicks down and try it for yourself. It's the only way you will know how your gun will respond. Getting consistent on the headspacing is key.

quote:

Originally posted by kelbro:
Modified barrel nut wrench and 'through the action' wrenches make Savage barrel swaps sooooo much easier. I don't have to remove my scope.

kelbro can you show me the tooling you use to remove a factory glued on nut to the barrel that makes it EASY? I'm always willing to learn something. roger

I'm talking about AFTER you break that mutha loose from the factory torque job .

Seriously, for popping that cherry, I have a wheeler action wrench that I mount in the vise. Never took more than two whacks with a big-a-- hammer on a SSS barrel nut wrench.

No need to re-tighten them to that torque. Thousands of rounds through several Savages and lots of miles riding in the scabbard on the side of my quad. Never had a barrel nut work loose.

I have a local acquaintence, gunsmith friend who has a set up for taking off barrels.. he has something heavy duty to mount them in.. uses aluminum bushings and then packs powdered sugar in between the bushings for grip.. then just takes a large crescent wrench on the action ( electrical tape to protect the finish)... a little ooomph and it comes off easily...

He let me do my Savage 12 BVSS, a couple of Mausers, a couple of Remingtons...and Winchester...

I've come to the conclusion if the barrel doesn't come off easy, some one doesn't have a set up to apply enough torque is all...

And funny, I am gathering the term switch barrel has different meanings to people..

Having to remove the stock, and the scope and take a barrel off with the vise and then installing the other one, setting the headspace and putting it all back together.. I consider that a switch barrel...as long as you set yourself up to do so easily having the right tools for the job..

I wasn't looking for something to swap out of the trunk of the car.. however, if one doesn't load something max pressure, screwing on another tube and tightening the headspace with a chambered case in the field, I have done that with no problems...

One thing I did notice that my gunsmith friend had, over other wrenchs I have seen, is that he had a large allen bolt in the center of his set up that tightens down pressure on the bushings...that and the Powdered Sugar works wonders on gaining traction that doesn't slip when you apply torgue...

[QUOTE]Originally posted by kelbro:
I'm talking about AFTER you break that mutha loose from the factory torque job .
Seriously, for popping that cherry, I have a wheeler action wrench that I mount in the vise. Never took more than two whacks with a big-a-- hammer on a SSS barrel nut wrench.


from Seafire I've come to the conclusion if the barrel doesn't come off easy, some one doesn't have a set up to apply enough torque is all...


All good info! John , when the nut wrench starts to get chewed up it's time to look at some serious heat and kroil before the torque. The first one took two weeks of heating and kroiling and still offered tremendous resistance.

Kelbro, does the wrench of what you speak have a section cut out of it to slide over the barrel and than slide on the nut so you don't have to remove the scope? I can envision such a wrench but it seems it still would have to be rather stout !

quote:

Originally posted by fireball168:

I have yet to find one that doesn't pop off as easy as any other Remington/Winchester/etc., without any damage to the barrel and or nut(especially if you put a couple of business cards between the nut and the aluminum inserts).

I whish you contiued success. I have a brand new gauled .243 barrel. All of the barrels I have ever taken off, and that includes some really stuborn old militaries, were many times easier than that first Mod. 200.

As soon as Shaw sends me my 7.62 X 41 barrel I'll let you know how easy it was to remove the factory 7-08 barrel.

Difficulty factor = exponentially the amount of BLACK MAX applied to barrel and nut divided by (the weight of the sledge hammer) times (it's handle length).

I guess all you lucky quick change artists can put whatever nomenclature on it you choose.

Anyone swaping a Stevens mod. 200 factory barrel in the field is driven by motives that I do not understand or for that matter really want to. roger

quote:

As soon as Shaw sends me my 7.62 X 41 barrel

I demand details

This wildcat is news to me but it sounds really cool. You and I we think a lot alike! First the MAS36 and now this. Which sounds very similar to my shilen 26" 1/15twist 7.62x39bbl I have on order for my Stevens 200 project.

I've removed the bbl form my Stevens without too much of a struggle. What I did was clamp the bbl in a vise with some Oak blocks and gave the bbl wrench a good whack with a 3 lb shop hammer

I just recently took a barrel off my Savage to put a 6mm AI on. It was a #$*%er, kroil, heat, cheater bars, nothing worked. We put it in the lathe and cut the nut off. After we got the nut off I bet it didn't take 5 minutes, put your headspace gauge in there, spin it down tight and loosen it just a bit, then spin the nut on not much more than hand tight. I would consider it pretty quick after the first time.

It certainly would seem , based on our posted testimony, that there is a HUGE difference in the difficulty of removing Savage factory barrels.

It would indicate that there is a lack of controll by Savage process contoll and quality assurance.

I hope someone in that group sees this thread. roger

I hear they have a gorilla come in as a special guest to tighten barrels sometimes.

I built a combination barrel/action vise and clamp both down solid to re move the factory nut. it usually takes only a whack or two with a babbit hammer to pop the nut. Having the action and barrel rock solid makes breaking loose the barrel nut much easier. After breaking loose the nut I loosen the barrel end of the vise and remove the barrel. On barrels that the nut has been loosenned already I just have to use the action end of the vise.

AWS