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Savage 340E 222rem
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Gidday Guys,

I have just bought a Savage 340E in 222 rem.

I got it for a song (NZ$500) and have yet to put a shot through it.

Is this model as accurate as the other Savages seem to be.

I am going to use it for a walk about varminter so I hope I haven't made a mistake.

It has a band around the barrel pulling it down into the stock just aft of the end of the forend. Would removing this band an free floating the barrel adversely effect the accuracy.

Any advise on my new aquisition would be appreciated.

Happy Hunting

Hamish
 
Posts: 588 | Location: christchurch NZ | Registered: 11 June 2005Reply With Quote
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I have a Savage 340C that I also got for a song ($200 US with an old Weaver K4 scope). I believe it is a C model but I don't remember since the scope mount covers the model number. Anywho, I was/am greatly surprised at the accuracy of the gun. It is more accurate than I can be. Last weekend I put 3 rounds in a real nice clover @ 200 yds using Speer 50g TNT's. It will definitely shoot.

I don't know about the barrel band. I hope someone else can shed some light on that.


Butch
 
Posts: 62 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 05 October 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Hamish:
Gidday Guys,

I have just bought a Savage 340E in 222 rem.

I got it for a song (NZ$500) and have yet to put a shot through it.

Is this model as accurate as the other Savages seem to be.

I am going to use it for a walk about varminter so I hope I haven't made a mistake.

It has a band around the barrel pulling it down into the stock just aft of the end of the forend. Would removing this band an free floating the barrel adversely effect the accuracy.

Any advise on my new aquisition would be appreciated.

Happy Hunting

Hamish


Hamish: the 340 action has only one "anchor" screw, the one in the recoil lug area. Removing the barrel band requires either drilling and tapping for a tang area screw, or bedding most/all of the forend so the action/barrel is stable.
Many of the 340 series rifles shot extremely well as-is, and the trigger is often the biggest obstacle to great accuracy. Working on them requires lots of time and knowledge, stoning the right parts and possibly adding shims in the trigger.
Go shoot it...it may not require any work at all!
 
Posts: 639 | Location: Central Texas | Registered: 28 March 2002Reply With Quote
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That band holds the stock on (in part). I'd leave it alone except to clean it really, really well. I think you're gonna be pleasantly surprised.
 
Posts: 367 | Location: WV | Registered: 06 October 2005Reply With Quote
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If its a svage it will more than likely shoot well.


Most people are link slinkies, Basically useless but fun to push down the stairs.
 
Posts: 265 | Location: Oklahoma City, OK | Registered: 31 December 2005Reply With Quote
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Gidday Guys,

Thanks for the info. We will find out tomorrow how well the beastie shoots as I am going to take it away for the weekend on a pre roar scouting trip.

Hopefully the hare and rabbit population will get a bit of a fright.

I will let you know how it went on sunday

Happy Hunting

Hamish
 
Posts: 588 | Location: christchurch NZ | Registered: 11 June 2005Reply With Quote
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Gidday Guys,

As I expected the rifle is going to need a trigger job. I just can't get used to a six pound pull.

If I really tried hard I managed to get it to put three bullets into the same hole which is great but at my age that degree of concentration is very tiring.

A lighter trigger is going to be a great help but I am definitely onto a winner.

Happy hunting

Hamish
 
Posts: 588 | Location: christchurch NZ | Registered: 11 June 2005Reply With Quote
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I have one in 222 also. It is moderatly accruate. If you have problems try tightening or loosing the screw for the barrel band. It seems to affect accuracy. I think you be happy with it for what you want to do with it.
 
Posts: 2395 | Location: NE Ohio | Registered: 06 August 2005Reply With Quote
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