Can someone give me information on the 218 Bee? Performance? Recoil? (can you see the bullet hit?)

Thanks

ddj

The .218 Bee can scoot a 40 grain bullet about 3,000 FPS.....recoil like a BB gun....nothing.

Depending on the weight of the gun one should be able to see the bullet hit a prairie dog under 200 yards.

I've never owned one but always wanted one in a falling block single shot...just too cheap to shell out the bucks for one

I have a Ruger No.1S with a 1B forend fitted around/over the Barrel band sling swivel.

It is the most accurate rifle I own and will reach to 150 metres. It is a quantum leap up from the Hornet and fits nicely below the .222 at lower noise levels.

I get 3,000fps (Chronoed) with 45/46 grain projectiles thanks to the strong No.1 action.
W-W 46HP and Hornady SXSP Spitzers are what I use most. W-W680 was a geat powder for the .218 but is no longer available here in Oz.

Recoil is non existant and you can watch the fall of shot. I have shot my biggest Boar and Trophy goat with this rifle and the Speer 50 TNT which showed outstanding accuracy if unreliable expansion at Bee velocities. Norma 50 FMJ projectiles will allow you to head shoot all small to medium game.

I purchased the rifle to use in small valleys and close to farms as it is very quiet and won't spook game.

I have also loaded the Bee for an old Winchester lever action and used the Hornady FN Bee projectile with excellent results.

I beleive there are a few break action single shot rifles around. The last chamberings of the Bee to my knowledge were in a Marlin Lever rifle and the Ruger No.1.

My dream rifle is a H&H Royal Double Rifle in .218Bee.

ah perhaps a nice martini cadet redone to 218 bee, oops but i already have one

quote:

Originally posted by butchloc:
ah perhaps a nice martini cadet redone to 218 bee, oops but i already have one

You are definitely a scholar and a gentleman owning a Martini Cadet chambered in 218 Bee.
Seems I gots one of them around here too..
SWEET little rascals aren't they????

Don

Could someone help me with which bullets and weight are best for the 218 Bee. Are the lighter weight bullets the best? I see that the only factory load is a 46 grain pill. Also, alot of the data I have seen says to use Hornet bullets, is this necessary?

Thanks Again,

ddj

I would stick with the 45/46 grain projectiles as they provide the best compromise between trajectory/velocity and on game performance.
With a 45 you can shoot rabbitts or goats.

The <=40's fly faster but are really pure varmint bullets.

You can use 50's but they are very tough on smaller game and are really only good on larger animals <100 metres range. Trajectory and velocity start to fall off.

Polymer tipped bullets tend to be too long for a magazine fed rifle.

I have found the 'aerodynamic' Hornady 45 SXSP the best all round bullet. I also carry in a pocket a few 'normal' Hornady 45 spitzers for larger animals.

I"ve had two, a M43 Win. and a Browning Model 65. It is a splendid little cartridge, and is a lot of fun to shoot. Handloading essential, due to FL ammo costs.

Never heard of it...

In truth, my centerfire shooting career began using an old Winchester '92 that my dad had had Winchester rebarrel from it's original .25-20 chambering back in the '60s. I've still got their original correspondence...

I used that little rifle to take my first white-tail buck in 1970 (although I cannot recommend it for that application today). It's a dandy little performer and, as noted above, virtually recoilless. If wild turkey are legal to hunt with a rifle in your area, the .218 Bee is a winner.

I've still got that old '92, but my "go to" rifle in .218 these last years has been a Ruger No. 1. Too heavy by half, but a joy to shoot nonetheless.

Say, was it you that was looking for a T/C barrel in .218 Bee a few weeks ago? If so, were you successful in your search? I've got one that I'd consider selling, but didn't contact you as we were right in the middle of a relocation and didn't feel like I could commit to shipping in a timely fashion.

Drop me a PM if you're interested.

Mark

Trouthunterdj, no, you deinitely do not need to use Hornet bullets. Don't know how that got started but it is not true to any extent. The so-called Hornet bullets were originally designed to expand at the slower speeds of the Hornet. I use only the 45 Sierra Varminter in my Ruger #1B Bee. That bullet is made for varminting and performs beautifully on groundhogs, crows, etc. In addition, it is the most accurate bullet I have found for either the Bee or the Hornet. You need to try all makes of bullets in that weight to find the best for your rifle, no one can tell you that any certain bullet or load is best for your rifle. Avoid the .223 Hornet bullet, these were made back when .22 LR barrels were converted to the Hornet and the accuracy will usually be mediocre at best in modern Bees. Try and/or use any and all 45 grain bullets. The 45 grin bullets will deflect less in a cross-wind than the 40 grain or lighter bullets but at the ranges where the Bee is usually used this may be academic. Also, don't lesten to anyone who says powder "X" is the best powder for the Bee, only your rifle will determine that. I have used, and still use, 680, 4227, BLC-2, 748 and 'Lil Gun with almost identical results. Primers do make a difference in my loads. Velocities don't change radically (I chronograph all of my loads with an Oehler M35)
but grouping will definitely sometimes be affected, going from a tight cluster with one primer to a 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 pattern when just the primer is changed. I personally have found the Remington 6 1/2 and the Federal 205 to be most consistent but on some loads the Fed Match is the best primer. It is all about experimenting and trying to see what happens with each load until you find the load that suits your rifle. In no event restrict yourself to bullets designated "Hornet", try any and all .224 45-grain bullets.

Small groups to you.

Thank you all so much for the info. I'm not the individual who was looking for a Contender barrel. I bought a custom made falling blocks works K action with a nice piece of claro walnut. I am anxious to shoot it but have had a hard time find brass of yet. Thanks again for all your help.

ddj

quote:

Originally posted by trouthunterdj:
Could someone help me with which bullets and weight are best for the 218 Bee. Are the lighter weight bullets the best? I see that the only factory load is a 46 grain pill. Also, alot of the data I have seen says to use Hornet bullets, is this necessary?

Thanks Again,

ddj

With the exception of the lever action Bees....(and the recoil is so little that wonder if this is true) I'd sure be shooting the Nosler 40 grain B'Tip in a falling block style of Bee

I have a Ruger #1 in 218. 40gr VMax's and H110 powder work very well in my rifle.

I had to shoot the Bee today. Went and bought a box of winchester 46 gr. hollowpoints for $60. I really enjoyed the rifle. Low noise and recoil. I can't wait to reload.

Craigster, what was the charge of H110? I bought a pound of H4227 today also and have H110 on hand. Thanks for the help.

ddj

quote:

I've never owned one but always wanted one in a falling block single shot...just too cheap to shell out the bucks for one

reference butchloc's reply- find or get converted a nice Cadet.

quote:

Originally posted by trouthunterdj:
...I am anxious to shoot it but have had a hard time find brass of yet. Thanks again for all your help.ddj

I read where brass can be made by necking down 25-20 or 32-20 then fireforming.

The Bee was originally made by Winchester by necking down the .25-20 WCF. I have experimentally necked down both the .25-20 and the .32-20 just to see whether it was difficult to do and if there were any problems commonly encountered in necking down other cartridges. I didn't see any, the brass of both of those cartridges is so thin that little, if any excess brass is encountered. I did find that some of the .32-30 necks had to be trimmed back but I was using brass I had fired in a pistol two or three times so that may have caused the necks of the .32-20s to lengthen.. While I didn't have any overlong necks with the .25-20, I would nevertheless measure al case if I were to neck them down. When case-forming, I suggest you use Imperial Die Wax. In 43 yeasrs of reloading I have never found anything to approach it. Rather than shoot up those over-priced factory rounds, I would get Winchester unprimed brass from Graf's or Midsouth. The problem with loading for the Bee is that new dies are right pricey. On the other hand, nothing can give a shooter more pleasure than to work up a load that is more accurate and faster than the factory offerings. And remember, those factory performance listings need to be taken with a large helping of Lot's Wife.

Small groups.

A couple of you guys mentioned WW680 Powder. Anyone have any data? I would love to try it in my Model 43.

Jerry

I have a '92 chambered in the Bee, and it's a luverly little rifle, very accurate (receiver sights) and a real pleasure to use..

Lever action doesn't really suit my uses, nor would a single shot - I reckon a small bolt action repeater (BRNO Fox, mini mauser or small Sako would be the duck's nuts.

If I had the money, I'd get one built in a heartbeat.

I had a Ruger #1 in 218 for 10 years and never shot it. Traded it on a Citori 525.I guess I missed a lot!

quote:

Originally posted by Dr. Duc:
I had a Ruger #1 in 218 for 10 years and never shot it. Traded it on a Citori 525.I guess I missed a lot!

By any and all means, retrieve it!!!!

Don

Jerry Eden, Old Double W discontinued making 680 some 20 or more years ago. I stocked up on it at the time and am now down to my last two cans. 680 was a replacement for and supposedly was better than the powder it replaced, 680 BR. I always found it to be a quirky powder, always shot well but was very difficult to make it shoot outstanding. It is very sensitive to charge weight variation in the little cases, the Bee, the Hornet, etc. Once you developed a load that was really great, even a tenth of a grain variation in either direction would normally result in groups opening up to 1 1/2 - 2". As I said in my earlier post, there are many current powders just as good or better for the BeeKeeper to use so I am not shedding any tears over the loss of WW 680. I had heard that Accurate's 1680 was intended to duplicate WW 680 but I only had minimal success with it in the Bee but then I may have not worked with it as much as I should have.

Wahoo:

I have a supply of 680, use it in 30 M1 Carbine, with excellent success. My interest in it as to the Bee, was am I missing out on something, by your post, I guess not. I use 1680 in 22 Hornet with very good success, Lil Gun is slightly better in regards to group size, but not enough to get excited over. My Bee likes 4198/45 Hornet, and thats where I guess I will stay.

Thanks for your reply.

Jerry

quote:

Originally posted by trouthunterdj:
I had to shoot the Bee today. Went and bought a box of winchester 46 gr. hollowpoints for $60. I really enjoyed the rifle. Low noise and recoil. I can't wait to reload.

Craigster, what was the charge of H110? I bought a pound of H4227 today also and have H110 on hand. Thanks for the help.

ddj

My apologies for the late responce. I use 13.2 grs of H110 with 40 V-Max. Another load that works well in my rifle is 15.7 grs R-7 and 40 V-Max.