Another vote for Lapua. It is so much nicer to work with.

I also like Lapua for it's uniform quality. However, if you have such tools as an RCBS Case Master, you can sort Winchester or Remington brass for neck thickness variations and end up with excellent brass for less money. You'll need more case prep with the Remchester stuff, so if you believe "time is money" you might still be better off with Lapua. Also, if you believe the standard head diameter (0.479") is important, you won't want the Remchester stuff anyway.

Jaywalker

I'll join the Lapua brigade. A sampling of weighed cases, Rem vs Lapua was an eye opener...

Thanks everyone for your input, greatly apprecited. I will go with Lapua brass and have the chamber cut accordingly. When I build the 6.5 Swede it will be on a fully blueprint Remington 700 stainless steel action, 1.8 twist Lilja or Kreiger barrel. I have all the neck turning tools, etc. so I will probably make it a tight necked chamber.
Getting my 6.5 X .284 finished up this next month, then I can start the 6.5 Swede.

Thanks, Lonnie

If you're not building a 1000y gun consider to use a 1-9" barrel instead.

In my test a 1-9" barrel is more forgiving with various bullet weights than the 1-8 that usually require the use of long bullets at modest velocities.

The mst commonly used load across the course here in Norway is a 108 or 123 grs Lapua Scenar and 39-40grs of Vithavouri N-140. Pust you into the 2750-2850f/s range and usually groups within 1/2Moa in a Sauer SSG 3000 Target rifle.

In your opinion who currently in making the best brass, in regards to strength, consistency, and runout, for the 6.5 X 55 Swede ?

Thanks, Lonnie

Norma, Lapua, RWS.

Fritz

Lapua. Norma's has been putting out brittle case necks recently, for some reason, in multiple calibers for me. RWS is good but pricey.

hi lonnie i shot 6.5 for a couple of years lapua is excellent brass 6.5 is not a high pressure round so most makes should give you good case life rws is expensive but the excellent case life far outweighs the cost
regards steve

Cal, I have never in my life seen brass of any manufacture with a projection into the primer pocket. Nor do I understand how it would be possible when all primer pockets regardless of whether they are bored or punched are formed from the outside in? What brass have you encountered with a projection inside the pocket? Jim

It appears, to me, that in some reloading manuals the 6.5 X 55 is loaded quite mildly. I would assume this is because of the fact there are alot of older millitar actions that are possibly not as strong as modern actions and the manuals must consider that when publishing data.

I have a couple of more questions:
(1)Using Lapua 6.5 X 55 brass, in a modern action such as a Remington 700, what is realistic load for 120 and 140gr bullets?
(2)Is 24 inch barrel enough or would a 26 inch barrel be better in a Deer and Antelope hunting rifle? (3)What velocities are realistic in a 24 and 26 inch barrelwith 120 and 140 gr. bullets?

Thanks for your thought on this.

Lonnie

Jim, just guessing here that he meant the flashole was drilled so it doesn't leave a burr or projection *inside* the case, not in the primer pocket. Those I have seen, and is the reason they sell the flashhole deburr tools.

Eric

The Ramshot online reloading data book lists 6,5x55 loads that are designated only for use in modern rifles. Those loads will give you reasonable maximums. 24" will get you anywhere you want to go with a 6,5x55. If you want more grunt, get a 6,5-06 or a 270. The 6,5-06 would benefit from a 26" barrel. 24-25" will get the most out of a 270. I have a Winchester Featherweight classic in 6,5x55. I wouldn't mind a 24" tube, but I'm really quite satisfied with the 22" factory barrel.

Remember, the 6,5x55 made its bones shooting long for caliber bullets at moderate velocities. Given modern bullet designs, it is at its best with conventional cored bullets at 139-142 grains and monometals of about 130 grains.

One of the reasons it has a modest reputation as a giant killer is that it acheives excellent penetration. Get a 120 grain bullet zipping along at 3000 fps and you'll get more explosiveness, but also less penetration.

JCN

Jim, I have seen this w/ both Rem. & WW brass. I think the flash holes are drilled from the outside after theinitial draw, not sure, but that would explain the sometimes burr & offset flash holes.

Hello Jim White,

The projection left behind by the punch is to be found inside the primer pocket. I use a Sinclair deburring tool to remove it. You ream about 20 flash holes, and you might be surprised at just how much brass is left sticking up inside that pocket. For whatever reasons the European companies drill the flash holes instead of punching them out so there's no projection remaining. That might be part of the reason their brass cost a little more. I don't really know. When I use American brass it's usually Remington, and I've found the projections in .243Win., .308Win., 6.5x55 and several others. Otherwise I like Remington brass. Best wishes.

Cal - Montreal

Cal, I have match prepped thousands of cases and the next one I see with a projection in the primer pocket will be the first! None of them (Lapua included) are square in the corners and need to be uniformed, but there is no

projection into the primer pocket. Any deburring that needs to be done is inside the case and not in the primer pocket. Sinclair does not sell a primer pocket deburring tool. They do sell a primer pocket uniformer which is used to uniform and square the pocket and has nothing to do with removing burrs. They also sell a flash hole deburring tool. All cases need to have the flash hole deburred from the inside, again Lapua included. I use Lapua brass whenever possible. If Lapua is not available or I cannot easily form what I need, I use Norma or Winchester. Sako at one time made some excellent PPC brass but the good stuff is almost impossible to find and very expensive if you can get someone to part with some. Jim

Sauer1450,
I absolutely agree with you about 1-9", and I could suggest also a 1-9.5" barrel.
Use the following loads in MODERN RIFLES ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Try this load: Bullet Lapua Scenar 139grs, primer Federal GMLR 210,
Powder Vhitavuory Oy N160 44-47 grs (46grs is the maximum in Lapua brass).
Or this one Bullet Lapua Scenar 120grs, primer Federal GMLR 210,
Powder Vhitavuory Oy N160 47-50 grs.
I repeat use them in MODERN RIFLES ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

and eventually make me know. I use them in my Sabatti rifle and are hunting loads.
bye

I found my 1:9 barrel would not stabalise the long 140 gr Barnes X or group well with 160 grain hornadys. So I rebarrelled in 1:8. The rifle now shoots sub MOA with everything I have tried from 100 gr BTs to the long bullets mentioned above.