OK, how about this...

I have a Ruger model 77 in .243 caliber, but I also have a #1 in .243, so maybe I could use the model 77 as a re-barrel project, but where would you send a gun off to to get it done? and for a non-reloader, what caliber would you go to? also, the gun has a wood stock and to reduce weight I might like to put a synthetic stock on there, so suggestions in this reguard are also welcome.

I am leaning towards either a .260 rem or a 6.5X55-I want a light recoil gun I/my wife and kids can shoot elk on down-mostly deer- and not get worn out carrying the gun all day. I keep hearing how easy these calibers are to shoot and shoot well and want to give it a try.

Dave

I have used several gunsmiths in several states. Go to this site and pick a few and start calling:

sst.benchrest.com/custom.html

I've used John Noveske, in Grants Pass, Oregon.

Greg Richards in Hobbs, NM

Mickey Coleman, in Alabama.

I'd go with a .308. You can get bigger bullets for elk that way and the recoil is still mild.

I'd use one of the following barrels:

Lilja, Broughton, Hart, Krieger, Pac-Nor, Shilen, or Kostyshyn. Incredible results with all. Mine are ALL stainless.

Good Luck.

I thought about .308--would proly be better for a non-reloader--but is the recoil really that mild compared to a .260? I heare some folks say they can see the bullet impact afetr shooting--I can't do this with my .270...

I just had a Ruger 77 rebarreled from 22-250 to 308 (I had to swap out magazine box, spring, and follower, but that wouldn't apply in your case.). The 308 would not recoil badly at all if you stick to 150 grain to 165 grain bullet weights (or less). You can get ammo loaded with 125 grain projectiles that are real softies to shoot. The reason that you can see .260's hit the target sometimes is that the factory way underloads that round. There is a huge selection of loaded 308 ammunition for reasonable prices. You should be careful about using military surplus. If that stuff is loaded to full NATO specifications there will be fairly stiff recoil. Almost all the aftermarket barrel makers do a good job on their 30 caliber tubes. The premium barrels are no doubt nice (I got a Lilja for this project), but you can get a good job done just by shipping your rifle to ER Shaw barrel company in Pennsylvania. I think you will be happier to keep the wood stock on your rifle. The balance will be better (unless you shell out the $$$ for a fancy fiberglass model). Do spend about $40-$60 for a 3.5# trigger job. Trust me on that score. Also have someone cut the stock to fit the shooter(s) and put on a quality recoil pad (Decelerator or Kick-Eeze). Kick-Eeze also makes a 1/4" sorbothane pad to put on the comb of the stock. That cushions a woman's or youngster's cheek from the recoil, and aligns their eye better with the scope.
A 22# barrel would be about right for any of the cartridges that you are considering. I would also recommend a fixed 4 power scope. That will give you plenty of light gathering ability, and also a very forgiving eye relief (about 4").
You can do this whole project for a modest cash outlay.
John Noveske is good at this stuff if you want to put on a fancy barrel. Also, the Pac-Nor barrel company would be happy to instal one of their barrels.
Have fun,
The family that shoots together, well shoots together.
JCN

PS There is a trade off between weight of gun and recoil. I picked up a 5 1/2# titanium Rem 700 in 30-06 at the gunstore today. It would surely be a joy to carry around the mountains all day. It would even more surely be very unpleasant to practice with.
I recommend not trying to shave weight. If it hurts to practice (and even a .260 will hurt if the gun is light), then an enjoyable hobby will turn into an avoided chore.

I don't know that the 260 is underloaded by the factory. It may not live up to published specs, but few rounds do. Even with handloads, I couldn't get much past 2725 fps with 140s out of 22" barrels - and that is slower than published numbers.

Anyway, if elk are on the menu I'd go with a 7-08 or 308. However, if you want a 308, you might be better of just trading your rifle in on a 308. In you want to re-barrel, Shaw would be the cheaspest probably - they could set you up for about $300, assuming a CM with no action tuning. Prepare for a long wait though - 3 months+. A lot of people around here will bad-mouth Shaw barrels - however, all mine have worked out pretty well. However, for an extar $100 you canget a SS pac-nor installed - my personal favorite (tell them you want factory headspacing).

Anyway, good luck.

I'm not recoil shy but a very light .308 is going to kick enough to make it less than fun for a new or part time shooter. For elk, you are going to have to handload most 6.5s to be reliable IMO. If you are going to rebarrel to a 6.5, check the mag. length in your rifle. I think the Rugers are a bit longer which you'll need for a 6.5x55. Otherwise go w/ a .260 or if you handload a .260AI w/ at least a 22"bbl, 1-9 or 1 8.5 twist to stabilize 140gr bullets (for elk).

IN a ruger I'd do the 260. It is too short to take advantage of the 6.5 x 55.

Get a one in 8 twist for 140 grain bullets.

A 260 with a partition will be just fine for Elk up to 300 yds in my opinion. If your shot placement is good , a good 140 grain bullet will do just a fine job.

Cheers and Good shooting
seafire