Good morning

This winter I want to improve my 220 Swift reloads. I've experimented several times with the usual powders and different amounts thereof and get pretty decent results but not as good as I hoped for. Shot groups at best are 3/4" at 100 yards and I have a number of calibers that will shoot 1/4" groups. I think I need to work on cartridge OAL.

My question (s) what is the best way to determine the best length or is there a perfect cartridge length that you guys know of. Complicating all this is that I would like to have one cartridge that will work well in two different rifles. One is a Winchester Mod 70 (pre-64) and the other is a Ruger #1 Single Shot.

Right now I am using 38 grains of IMR 4320 behind a Sierra 52 grain HPBTM at 3800 fps (from the book - no chronograph). Cartridge oal is currently 2.695".

I would like to develop a new load using HORNADY's 60 grain V-MAX #22281

Thanks for considering this and especially for any advice.

Merry Christmas everyone!

Steve

Seems like you are really interested in optimum bullet seating depth for best accuracy. Each rifle has it's own preferences in general and for each different type of bullet in particular. Check the internet websites or reloading manuals for the procedures used in determining when the bullet is fully into the lands (jam length) and for seating it deeper as you back away from full jam. My Pre-64 M70 Swifts have all performed best when the bullet was about 10-30 thousandths from touching the lands. It's a trial-and-error process with each rifle and each different bullet type.

Buy a bullet comparator--OAL varies too much. You need to measure from a fixed point on the ogive.

You may get lucky and find both your rifles like the same seating depth but it's not likely.

Expecting a Swift to consistently produce 1/4 inch groups at 100 yds. is unrealistic from a factory production rifle. You should settle for 3/4 inch groups if your rifles produce them consistently.

1/4" groups.

I think I'll pass.

Can someone else please help this gentleman!

GWB

I've had two Swifts, both Rugers. The SS heavy barrel rifle, 96 vintage, would shoot 3/4 minute with almost anything you wanted.....but would not do better on a bet, it's long gone. My old skinny barrel tang safety gun shoots its favorite load into a 1/2" anytime you want, year after year. I still may build a custom Swift on a 700. Maybe that one will do a quarter minute.

I've had 3-4 Swifts in the past and I just built another one this year using a Sav LA and ER Shaw 1-8 twist barrel.

Basically the only way I've been able to keep all my shooters, no matter what cal, bugholing is to bench prep the brass and bullets...weigh sort, turn necks, uniform flash holes and primer pockets and measure the ogive on EVERY bullet in a box and sort and benchrest tune the rifles, scopes and mounts.

Buy a bullet comparator and headspace gauge. Measure a fired case against a sized case and adjust your sizer to only set the shoulder back 0.001-0.002" and size the neck and base only enough to close the bolt easy. Polish the sizer out with 400 gr wet/dry taped to a wooden down stuck in a drill motor with a little oil.

I pretty much only use Redding FL Type S Bushing dies and Redding Competition shell holders or grind the shell holder if needed...I had to grind the shell holder for my 6mm-284 down 0.003" because I got the headspace just a tad tight. Different brands of brass can cause that. Buy GOOD brass...Lapua, Norma, RWS...I'm using Norma for the 6mm-284 and R-P I had to reall work hard to get set up and Hornady(discontinued loaded 25 years old) for the 220 Swift.

Most 22 cals shoot very well about 0.025" off the lands so I usually start about at 30-35 with a known load and move in 0.005" at a time. 3 shot groups until they start touching then a 5 shot and call it good. I will start shooting and counting rounds until the group opens up...that is the point where fouling is starting to affect accuracy.

I clean with Wipe/Patch Out/TM/Butch's etc until the blue is gone then shoot another group until it closes up...whatever number of rounds is required to foul and 3-4 less than the amount that causes groups to open up is the amount I shoot between cleanings.

Most swifts will do 1 1/4" - 3/4" without much messing around and with most factory ammo, but if you want something less you have to work for it.

There is tons of information and load for the Swift scattered all over the net. You might try 4064 if all else fails...that was one of the early go to high accuracy powders.

Im using heavier bullets, 68-77 gr and Varget/RL15 mostly.

You just have to fiddle to get the right combination. Sometimes you hit it right off, sometimes never...

Keep the velocity toward the lower end, 3800 is good and the Swift barrel will last well over 3000 rnds...get magnumitis and you can burn it out in 500. If you want more speed the get a bigger case, like the 22-243 Middlested. You get Swift velocity easy but about 6-10% less pressure which means more barrel life.

Luck

It could just as easily be your platforms as your handloads. Most pre-64 Model 70s (with no modifications) are lucky to stay inside 1 1/2 inches. The Ruger #1 (depending on when it was built) can also be frustrating to group because of barrel quality and fit on the earlier manufactored ones.

If you want to play with OAL you can do the old smoke on the bullet or Sharpie on the bullet, but the easiest way to just get yourself a Hornady OAL gage to experiment with distance off the lands.

Barstooler.