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I have a bone stock Rem 700 243 and I want to make this gun more accurate. What are all the tricks that can be done to gun to increase performance. I have looked at replacing the barrel but I don't know what to look into. I will be looking into long range shooting. | ||
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First thing to do is put some good glass atop the rifle and shoot it... You might have a diamond in the rough already and it might shoot Sub-MOA already. If that happens to be the case then I suggest leaving it alone... Yet, from they way I read your post it would seem as if your are hinting to not getting decent accuracy already. That being the case: Have the action bedded by a good gun smith... Have it recrowned... Have the barrel hand lapped... Have the trigger worked on so that it breaks clean and crisp at 2.5 to 3.5lbs (for hunting)... Test to see if the accuracy is any better... -------------------------- "D2D" Shot Placement Is What It's About... Good Hunting To All... | |||
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a trigger a good stock maybe a better barrel one of these would be good. Then there's handloading match grade ammo. This could include things like neck turning, concentricity checks, sorting cases by weight, sorting bullets by weight, primer pocket conditioning, ect. Didn't mean to scare you. Or you could just start with bedding it yourself, put a good scope on it, and polish and adjust the trigger. Bedding and the trigger job will make a big difference most of the time. Check the crown of the muzzle (or have it done), and worry about the scope last. I hate to mention this as I don't know you, but spending lots of time on the trigger will also be required. Nate | |||
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I have a Luepold VX-1 39x40 on it right now. Its a decent scope. I just started a new batch of loads today and will try them this weekend. I loaded 55g Noslers with H380. I put together several combinations and if I end up geting 3 shots that touch, then I will leave it. I do want to do the trigger and put a new stock on. That is a definate regardless of what I do. I really like those sniper stocks or a thumb hole stock. They are just so much more comfortable for me. I never had great success with factory ammo. Maybe I am too picky. If I miss a golf ball at a hundred yards, I am not happy about it. I heard something about the barrel screw should always be set at a certain torque. What is that and why should it matter. | |||
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Excuse me but it sounds to me like your trying to learn to run befor you can walk! You say you want to make your rifle more accurate but you don't say how accurate it is now. If you have a quarter minute rifle, accuracy increase's will come in very small doses and are sometimes costly. For long range shooting, what do you mean? I don't think many people compete ant long range with 243's. What do you call long range? I use my 243 for a coyote rifle and it's sighted in to be 2 1/2" low at right at 275 yds. On a target the size of a coyote, that's fairly far. There's lot's of things you can do to improve accuracy it your rifle shoot's poorly now, like everything mentioned above. A re[barrel will run about $300 more or less and is no guarentee of increased accuracy. Especially in a rifle you don't know how it shoots now. Best place to start. A book: The Accurate Rifle by Warren Paige. Re-post and be a bit more clear about what you want. | |||
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Ya posted right after me. Yep, get the book. The 55 gr Nosler is not likely going to be accused of being a long range bullet by anyone. Changing the stock to one you like better is a good idea. Get it well bedded and you'll shoot better, maybe only a bit but better. It's a head thing. One last thing, define long range. | |||
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I guess you all are right. I am jumping the gun (no pun) on this a little. I have been shooting over the counter ammo for a while with this gun and never found anything that I was real happy with. I have been thinking about tinkering with the gun for a while. By long range I am talking no more than 400 to 500 yards. I get a lot of opportunities at varmint at those distances around my area. What do you mean by "getting it bedded" I think I will be looking into that book. | |||
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If I had a Rem 700, I would sell it, too someone I didn't like! | |||
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Here`s an easy improvement that won`t cost and worth a try.Make sure you are testing loads with a "dirty" ,dry, barrel.With only a bronze brush to clean the barrel till it starts shooting bad,if indeed it does start shooting bad.More than once I`ve seen guys at the range shaking their heads wondering why their rifles are shooting poorly....and just swabbing the hell out of the thing. While you are waiting for the barrel to cool between shots you can carefully inspect cases,primer,write in log,smoke if you do,remove bolt and look thru bore,take a drink of water,and check what other shooters are doing,especially the guys that are shooting real tight groups.Shoot.Repeat.Then move scope adjustment.Cool barrel is a key factor. If you are allowed, put up two targets so you can shoot another firearm while the other cools.Just my opinions. | |||
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I always do all this. when testing loads I use 5 shots. two shots to prime the barrel and three to see pattern. Then i clean the barrel and go for the next load. Usually my cleaning at the range isn't that extensive, its just running a couple snakes down several times (one wet and one dry). And I do wait or shoot other guns when waiting. I usally don't wait very long on the same load but I do wait a while between different loads. | |||
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hntin247 I have heard of barrels that require 20 or more rounds to settle in. You might want to try running a few more rounds between cleaning. A trigger adjustment should probably be your first mod. | |||
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You need to tell what groups look like now. What do you want? Are you set on the 55's? You may need a longer bullet, a dirtier barrel,(mentioned earlier) longer waiting time between groups, bedding and a trigger job. Your scope is fine. Bedding is the process of using an epoxy to bond to the stock using a release agent to keep from glueing the barreled action into the wood permanently. It helps the barreled action to be set exactly the same way in the stock eack time, limits movement, changes vibration. A smooth, lighter trigger helps, and ideally you should not be able to tell exactly when it's going to let go. You anticipate by nature, so although you expect it to drop, it's best to not be able to tell exactly when. You should be focused on the target and squeezing, then notice the gun has gone off. The accuracy game can get real spendy. If you are saving fur you may try slowing down the 55's or if you are not saving fur try a heavier bullet. Nate | |||
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i have a ruger 77 mk2 .243 carbine. when i first git it i was really disappointed with the accuracy. I tried loaded federal 80grains, then i loaded some 87 grain hornadies, some improvement. then i remounted my scope TIGHTENED my mounting screws and worked up a load with 105 grain spitzers (just off the rifling). now it is shooting key holes at 100m. I am now very pleased with it. Remmington 700s have been around a lot of years. they are a good rifle. It maybe that with a bit of tinkering with your scope and a lot of tinkering with your ammo you can get better accuracy. Also important is your own technique when shooting. I am normally the limitting factor with my shooting!!! steve | |||
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I put a rifle basix trigger in my rem 700 .243 and I like the crisp break it gives, that may be an option for you if you decide you want to ditch the trigger (although worked over the factory triggers can be nice). | |||
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The most accurate rifle in the world won’t perform if the cross hairs are rattling around in the scope or you can’t see through it. you have to see it to shoot it and it has to be sighted in and stay sighted in to shoot it! | |||
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bore snakes are just dandy for the muzzle | |||
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What do you need: A little trigger work A good load for your intent A good scope A steady hand Bottom Line: Great rifle and caliber Free men should not be subjected to permits, paperwork and taxation in order to carry any firearm. NRA Benefactor | |||
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Your rifle probably has a 1-10" twist. I've found that bullets in the 75-100 grain range shoot better than the lighter ones in a .243. Others will say their's does well with light bullets, just giving my opinion from over ten .243s. Before going to the added expense of new stock, new trigger, etc., etc., etc., fire at least 50 rounds through that gun. Then, adjust the current trigger, or have a gunsmith do it for you. Now glass bed the action and make sure the barrel is free-floating. The rifle now should be able to shoot. If not, have a gunsmith check the crown and action for problems. .395 Family Member DRSS, po' boy member Political correctness is nothing but liberal enforced censorship | |||
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He said his rifle was a Remington I'd go as far as to bet my morning coffee that it is a 1 in 9 1/8 twist. Look on your scearch and find the direction to adjust that trigger it is probably in excess of 4.5 to 5 pounds. You should be able to at least get it down to under 3 pounds without a problem. If you don't feel good about fooling with the trigger a gun smith should be able to whip it out in less than 5 minutes while you wait. | |||
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1/10, at least that what it says | |||
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Is that a new Remington? What model? Did you buy it new? | |||
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If i wanted to try other loads. Is there anywhere to buy a few of each. Something like a sample pack from nosler or where ever. | |||
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I have had this gun for several years. As far as I know it is just a 700. | |||
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You didn't say how it shot or I missed that part one,how far out have you shot and have you tried working up a load or just useing factory loads? I have one of the first classic in the 243 and nothing has been done to it except adjust the trigger.It shoots good either way with the wooden stock or a remington fiber stock I put on it to save the wooden stock from getting scratched up. Below is a couple 300 yd groups I shot with it useing 85 and 100 gr bullets. | |||
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I shot it yesterday with the 55g nosler with 50 of h380. The averaged 3660 fps and at 100 yards they were an inch high and group around an inch. 200 hundred yards was still about an inch high and grouped about 1.5. I know that this is pretty decent and I should be happy with that. But I know some of you are like me and want better. Especially since they guy i was shooting with had a 220 that was doing half inch groups. I couldn't keep the gun any more steady. | |||
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Does anyone have a collection of misc bullets they would donate or sell to the cause. I want to try other rounds but I dont want to have to buy a 100 just for several shots. | |||
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So if you read what he's written, you're saying his Luepold isn't up to the task? | |||
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hntin247, Look back over the suggestions made here. The 55's are pretty light for that twist rate. You may get better groups slowing them down, but most likely a longer bullet would do better. The trigger and bedding are good investments of time and money. If you have a 'smith do either of these jobs ask them to have a look at the crown. It'd be tough to beat the group pictured above. Those Sierra's do shoot well. You may want to consider moving up in bullet weight. More details help if you are having inconsistancies, and are trouble shooting. If you're getting 1.5" from 55's that are scooting along, you'd probably be happier with slightly heavier bullets as far as groups go. If you want light bullets for saving fur, slow them down! Nate | |||
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no no not at all! well. but if he wants to be shooting over 300, i would like to see something bigger than 9 power on it. well, i know id be opting for something a bit more powerful. not saying there is anything wrong with leupold at all, infact i own one and am very happy with it. | |||
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Paul-I understand what you are saying and yes the 9 power is lacking on the down range. But I am stuck with it for now. You know, the money thing. I am going to go up in weight. I think I will try some 70s and 80s. I will also try a different powder. I really don't care for the H380. Hodgdon says I can max out at 51g of powder but I can't get that much to fit in a case. I am thinking IMR or Varget. Which should I try this time. | |||
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As has been mentioned many times already trigger trigger trigger trigger trigger trigger trigger. This is probably the cheapest modification you can do to help make the gun easier to shoot. It's a two screw adjustment that won't cost you anything but time if you do it yourself. Just be careful with the sear engagement screw make sure the firing pin doesn't drop when you close the bolt. | |||
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yah I know. Everyday I tell myself that I should do that tonight and everyday something else come up. Mainly kids and wife. That is a hole nother discussion. I am going to do it. All it takes is just doing it. | |||
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Has anyone used any of the short cut powders in a 243 yet? | |||
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I was reading an old article in Predator Extreme from Glen Barnes about seating depth. I don't think anybody has mentioned this. I went and checked mine and it is huge. With the 55g Nosler Boat Tails I am at least a 1/4 inch behind the max seating. I put a bullet in a brass just far enough so it would stay and dropped it in the rifle and closed the bolt. It never touched the rifling. The article by Glen Barnes says to seat the bullet in the gun and back it off .020 and start adjusting from there. I can even get that far with the 55g Boat Tales. The measurment with 2.738 inch was the most I could get it. What is everyones max seating depth | |||
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yep, a good solution is to find tree that grows money.... | |||
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my 700 vls loves H4831sc for both light and heavy bullets.give it a try. | |||
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what kind of recipes do you have. | |||
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what I use is 46grs with either the 85gr hpbt or the 70gr blitz king. the blitz king shoots better than I can hold it! as always work up for your rifle and let me know how it does. | |||
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I am shooting 55gr Nosler Ballistic tips out of my Ruger 243. Rem brass, WLR primer, H380 @ 52grs. I was dusting clay birds with it out past 300 last weekend with a 9x scope, no problem. Mine will group around .700" at 100 with that load. One thing to remember, you cannot expect a hunting rifle to group like a bench gun. Just the fact that you only have a 9x scope will open your groups up compared to a bench gun. Not to mention barrel thickness, trigger weight, stock design etc. | |||
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How are you getting 52grs of H380 in the brass. I have never been able to get the manufacturers maximum load of 51grs in. How fast you going with 52grs. I am using 50grs and getting 3670's. I imagine that 52 is rollin. | |||
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